So can you bore out a 1gr-fe?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sYWCpHYPuFu2PgNAASo during a head gasket replacement on my 04 runner with 244k I found some damage to number 5 cylinder. I have read some people are saying you can and some are saying you can't. My machine shop guy seems to think you can. I also considered just slapping it together and see how long it last.

 

I found an old reply on Tacoma world regarding the 4.0 1GR-FE engine and pasted below if that helps.

“1GR-FE 4.0L V6 from a 2007 Toyota Tacoma. The 1GR-FE is the 4.0L version. Bore is 94 mm and stroke is 95 mm. Output is 236 hp (183 kW) at 5200 rpm with 266 lb-ft (382 Nm) of torque at 4000 rpm on 87 octane, and 239 hp at 5200 rpm with 278 lb-ft at 3700 rpm on 91 octane. This engine features Toyota's single VVT-i, variable valve timing, system and a compression ratio of 10.0:1. Inside, the 1GR uses a taper-squish combustion chamber design with matching pistons to improve anti-knocking and engine performance, while also improving intake and fuel efficiency. Toyota adopted a siamese-type intake port, which reduces the surface area of the port walls and prevents fuel from adhering to such walls. This engine has special cast-iron cylinder liners cast into the block, which are a spiny type to improve adhesion between the liner and cylinder block. With these special thin liners it is impossible to bore the block. In the event of cylinder wall damage (scoring, deep protrusions, etc), the entire cylinder block must be replaced. For increased block rigidity, the 1GR also receives a high temperature plastic insulator/protector, which fills the empty space between the outer portion of the cylinders and block material common to open deck engines. For increased cooling efficiency, the 1GR employs water passages between the bores of the engine. There are such 2 passages for each bank for a total of 4. This reduces cylinder hot-spotting and keeps combustion chamber temperatures more uniform.”

 

Yes it does. Not sure I never came across this. Do its either replace the block or bore and sleeve it.

 

I didn’t get the impression that the sleeves were removable from this writing.
“With these special thin liners it is impossible to bore the block. In the event of cylinder wall damage (scoring, deep protrusions, etc), the entire cylinder block must be replaced.”

 

Did you compression test before you disassembled it?

It looks like surface scratches. Do you think honing the cylinder would clean it up a bit?

Otherwise, I'd look for a motor out of a totalled 4Runner, or maybe a used engine from overseas.

 

The top right section per the photo looks gouged in my opinion and beyond a light hone but it’s difficult to say without seeing it in person .

 

You don't press out the sleeve. You bore the sleeve just enough to press in a aftermarket sleeve. I seen on another thread where someone did this as they were building the engine for boost.

 

I didn't do a compression test before tearing it apart. At first I wished I did but at the same time if it was low I would be wondering if it was low because of the wall or because the head gasket leak. lol I was thinking about honing it just to see how much it would clean it up even though I know its not recommended on these engines.
I found a salvage yard about an hour and half from me that has a bare block. Going to see if they can get pics of the cylinder walls for me.

 

That part isn't to bad. Its the shining part that you see. The cross hatching is gone there and you feel a slight deviation there.

 

Other that the head gasket leak she was running great. No real smoke once warmed up.

 

It looks like there is a company by the name of Darton that makes new piston sleeves for the 1grfe. There's a thread about a guy that used them on tacoma world.

 

https://ericsperformanceparts.com/darton-900-400-p-mid-sleeves-for-toyota-1grfe-1gr-tacoma-v6
https://www.enjukuracing.com/produc...m-i-d-toyota-1grfe-94mm-to-98mm-max-bore.html

 

Those are expensive sleeves. lol Talked to my machine shop guy and he said it would be 150 a cylinder to sleeve. So 900 plus the hot tanking and new freeze plugs. Add the crank and heads in there and I'm probably looking at 2k-2k+. Low time junk yard engine run about 3500+ seem like.

 

They are expensive. I didn't really see any other options, granted I didn't look to hard.

 

Why it was damaged, overheating or bad oil maintenance or wrong gasoline ? What is the value of the vehicle ?

 

Based on talking to the lady I bought it from who owned it since 2008. Oil changes not done on time and I'm welling to bet the head gasket leak went on for a while and the coolant sitting in the cylinder didn't help. The engine also that bad oil smell when you opened up the engine. Last time I smelled that was on my mom's 95 chevy small block. LOL she was bad about not changing the oil on time.
Value wise I say maybe around 6500. The frame is in pretty good shape other than some surface rust here and there.

 

I honed the cylinder a little and it seemed to help a little. I dropped the heads off at the shop to have them inspected and new seals put in. If the heads checks out I'll put everything back together up to the point I can do a compression check safely. If its good I'll roll with it and plan on replacing it down the road.

 

I'm sure a lot of people would be interested in hearing how this turns out, keep us posted. Good luck also, these are tough engines.

 

I will update as things move forward. I have a few parts I want to order but I am holding off until I hear from the machine shop how the heads are. Hope to know by this Monday or Tuesday. I'm kinda of thinking maybe since I plan on dropping the oil pan to make sure there is no slush and just to reseal it. The piston ring kit really isn't to expensive. Was thinking about just pulling the pistons hone the worst cylinders a little more and install new rings. Might do a compression check after and one after its had some miles to break in the new rings. Man I might as well just had pulled the whole engine. lol

 

Good luck . Keep us updated on how things turn out.

 

Just a little update. Finally heard back from the machine shop. They took a little longer then I expected. The heads check out good. Have some piston rings on order and going to order rod cap bolts. Guess you can only get them from Toyota. So the next update will take awhile.
Also if anyone wants a rough idea on the cost of the head work. Was little under 300.

 

New update. Got the pistons pulled and honed the cylinder walls. They do look better. The #5 cylinder isn't perfect but looks much better then before. Got all the pistons reinstalled with new rings, rod bearing and bolts. All clearance checked good. Both heads installed. Was going to install the cams and stuff when I was cleaning the buckets I noticed half of them had erosion either on the top or the sides. Cam lifters looked good. So now I need to order some buckets. I'll add some pictures when I get a chance.

 

Late update. Lots been going on. I had to remove the timing cover again to reseal it. Some reason I missed that the timing cover has a small recessed section on the passenger side of the timing cover between the head and block. Didn't put enough rtv there. So anyways. After honing all the cylinders and taking little extra time on cylinder 5 and a few others checking not to exceed the max bore limit. She is running pretty good. Haven't run it long to let the new piston rings seat in. But I had time to do a compression on one cylinder so I thought I do it on the worst one #5. This was a on cold engine that sat for a week. It was about 173. Might get little better as she sets in. Hope she makes another 100k easy!

 

I hope so, too!