Replaced iacv but still getting code

Hello. I need help.
Been dealing with this problem for like a year now!
Long story short.
I just replaced the iacv valve for a autozone part ( 281 dollars)
Reason is cus I'm getting the p0505 code.
And car stalls sometimes and replaced goes up and down randomly.

I replaced the Parr. Clear the code with the scanner but c9de came back up right after turning car on.

There's is not vacuum leaks. I have done smoke test already.
Tps have been replaced too.
What in the world man.
What can it be?

Also now idle is a lil higher 1100 and I belive shoulbe be like around 600 or 800

 

Following. Exact same issue.

 

Did you look into replacing the o-ring on the Idle Adjust Screw? The screw under the large cover screw, on the left, top, of the Throttle Body. Don't confuse the cover screw with the Idle Adjust Screw under it. Not that *I* would have ever done that...<ahem>. The o-rings get old and brittle and can break apart. Pieces fall down down into the small little air passages which the IAS controls.

It's a fairly easy check. Just "tighten" the screw down until it stops, counting the whole, and partial, turns as you go. Then you can "loosen" the screw all the way out so you can check the o-ring. They are readily available at auto parts and hardware stores, should you need a new one. If there is any question, replace it with a new one. It's a very good idea, too, to wipe a thin layer of Vaseline, or silicone dielectric grease, onto the new one. It preserves the rubber, making it last much longer, and getting a better seal.

Put the IAS back in, all the way down to the bottom, then unscrew the number of turns and partial turns, of course, that you learned when you started the whole affair. It may not be the correct idle speed, but it's a place to start. IIRC, tighten is slower, looser is faster, but I may well have it bass-ackwards. Using an external tachometer, which can be found included in many timing lights these days, set the idle to about 800 RPM. Don't trust the built in tachometer in the truck, if any. They are notoriously inaccurate.

I'm not saying the o-ring IS your trouble, but it's a possibility needing to be checked. While the screw is out, also, clean out the little air passages it controls, if needed. A short squirt of carb cleaner does a wonderful job.

Good luck!
Pat☺