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Rear main seal issues

Discussion in '2nd Gen 4Runners (1990-1995)' started by Houziren, Aug 16, 2023.

  1. Aug 16, 2023 at 3:27 PM
    #1
    Houziren

    Houziren [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2023
    Member:
    #34944
    Messages:
    2
    Gender:
    Male
    I am trying to replace the rear main seal on my 92 3.0 V6. The housing seams to be stuck to the oil pan. The two studs at the oil pan appear to be stopping the housing from coming out but I cannot figure out why.

    any help would be appreciated.
     
  2. Aug 16, 2023 at 3:59 PM
    #2
    atgparker

    atgparker Cal Poly, ETME 1988

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2018
    Member:
    #6296
    Messages:
    335
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Andrew
    Mission Viejo, CA
    Vehicle:
    1991 White 4Runner 3.0 L
    Rebuilt Engine MLS and ARP on the heads, DT Header, 2-1/2" CARB compliant Flow-Master CAT with 2.0" Bosal CAT back Dayco 1-1/4" Spacers, SkyJacker M-Series Monotube Shocks, Ball Joint Spacers. 95-9006 K&N Air Cleaner, G-Plus Alum Radiator, ZIrgo 16" Fan, Derale Temp switch/relay
    Double nut the studs and remove them from the seal carrier. Take a utility knife and cut the seal between the oil pan and the seal carrier. The the seal carrier can then be removed from the block with some tenacity as it has bushings that position it onto the block which is whey you can't get it off with the studs in the carrier. Get new seal and a Harbor Freight Press or equivalent and install the new seal with an even draw into the carrier otherwise it will not stay round and the rear main seal will leak around the crank. This has been the only way I have had any success in getting these seals to be leak free after install. Clean the block and oil pan surfaces and fix the seal carrier back onto the block and pan with RightStuff Gasket Maker. Be sure to put grease inside the seal were it contacts the crankshaft prior to installing on the engine. Torque the M6's at 8 to 10 Nm evenly to assure the carrier is flat on the block and square with the crankshaft. Replace studs and nuts and draw up the pan to squish the gasket maker being sure there is plenty at the junction of the block and the pan were the carrier has its edge and corners.
     

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