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Rear main seal housing / oil pan

Discussion in '2nd Gen 4Runners (1990-1995)' started by ianreidd, Aug 12, 2019.

  1. Aug 12, 2019 at 10:08 AM
    #1
    ianreidd

    ianreidd [OP] New Member

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    1990 4R. we went in to replace the clutch and figured that we should switch the rms while we were at it, we removed every bolt that I could find on any diagram of the rms housing and then realized that there were two pins the connected it to the oil pan.

    Any video I could find is of a 1992 4 runner and it seems like they changed the RMS housing because ours looks different than the others.

    Does anyone know where these pins go? Because the thing is stuck and it looks like the only way to take it off is to remove the whole oil pan which we are trying to avoid?

    And if we do have to remove the oil pan any helpful links or videos?

    Thank you!

    CD989A74-62F0-49FC-9ED5-142D083EEC12.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2019
  2. Aug 13, 2019 at 3:06 AM
    #2
    jcoon

    jcoon New Member

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    Can you remove just the studs that are in the rms housing?
     
  3. Oct 13, 2019 at 5:06 PM
    #3
    atgparker

    atgparker Cal Poly, ETME 1988

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    Rebuilt Engine MLS and ARP on the heads, DT Header, 2-1/2" CARB compliant Flow-Master CAT with 2.0" Bosal CAT back Dayco 1-1/4" Spacers, SkyJacker M-Series Monotube Shocks, Ball Joint Spacers. 95-9006 K&N Air Cleaner, G-Plus Alum Radiator, ZIrgo 16" Fan, Derale Temp switch/relay
    The seal carrier has alignment sleeves or dowels to position it on the block and center the seal properly with the crankshaft. The studs in the carrier that are sealing the oil pan can be double nutted and removed from the carrier but you will in all probability end up with the oil pan and or the windage tray seam leaking after you do this.
     
  4. Oct 14, 2019 at 12:59 PM
    #4
    thirdgen

    thirdgen New Member

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    I recall replacing the seal without removing the housing altogether.
     
  5. Aug 16, 2023 at 3:22 PM
    #5
    Houziren

    Houziren New Member

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    How did you get this figured out? I have the same issue.
     
  6. Aug 10, 2024 at 3:13 PM
    #6
    Fantast

    Fantast New Member

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    I used vice grips to slowly unscrew the studs(sketchy I know, but it worked). Ill replace with bolts.
    20240810_150722.jpg The guy who said double nut it was a good idea, but there is not enough thread to do that.
    There are tools called "stud extractor" you can use that would be your best bet.
     
  7. Aug 15, 2024 at 7:09 PM
    #7
    atgparker

    atgparker Cal Poly, ETME 1988

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    Andrew
    Mission Viejo, CA
    Vehicle:
    1991 White 4Runner 3.0 L
    Rebuilt Engine MLS and ARP on the heads, DT Header, 2-1/2" CARB compliant Flow-Master CAT with 2.0" Bosal CAT back Dayco 1-1/4" Spacers, SkyJacker M-Series Monotube Shocks, Ball Joint Spacers. 95-9006 K&N Air Cleaner, G-Plus Alum Radiator, ZIrgo 16" Fan, Derale Temp switch/relay
    Put a 4mm 6 point socket on the end of the stud to back them out.
     

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