Rear Camera Relocate Question

Hi, I’m considering a rear swing out on the new rear bumper I’m about to order, and it will require a rear backup camera relocate. I’ve watched a few videos on it, and it seems pretty straightforward, basically opening up the hatch liner, soldering some wires, and rerouting them to a location of choice. My question is for anyone on here that has done this: did you do anything special to waterproof the wires where they enter the camera? The reason I ask this is because the pro videos from C4, Victory, etc. which are all excellent btw, basically show just moving the camera and wrapping some electrical tape and plastic conduit around it. Since the camera was designed to live in a dry environment inside the rear hatch, I’m just wondering if anyone has any experience with how well it and it’s tiny wiring survive in the hostile outside world of rain, dirt, salt, slush and snow? Thanks!

 

I use these for all wire connections.

$13 TICONN 150 PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, Waterproof and Insulated Electrical Wire Terminals, Butt Splice (150PCS)

https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-Connectors-Waterproof-Insulated-Electrical/dp/B07HCNTZ2Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=wire+connectors&qid=1586093708&sprefix=wire+connector&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzRU1DQVk0TEQ0UUtOJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTU3MDA3RzRUSUtGOTAyRjMyJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1NTI2NjgxOTlCT1kwQVRJUEczJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU%3D

They work best with a heat gun, not a lighter. Strong connection and weather proof too! In addition I would wrap wiring in electrical tape and use wire loom to make it all look “finished”.

 

Thanks, Dark Knight, but my question wasn’t so much about concern for the soldered connections, which can be made waterproof fairly easily, but where the small gauge wires enter the housing of the camera. No one seems to do anything to protect this area, and I am wondering if it’s strong enough to withstand the outside world. Sure, you can try to fill it up with rtv, but sometimes water still leaks around sealers like that when there’s wires running through it.
Just wondering what others have done. Maybe it’s no problem. But whenever I modify something i try to anticipate the unforeseen consequences, haha.

 

Btw, those connectors you referenced are excellent.

 

We used a good quality silicon to seal up our camera. It's been two years now with no issues.

 

I liked your video as well, WanderlostOverland!

 

THANKS!

 

Not to start an argument, but in my opinion, those connectors are garbage. Cut them apart after bonding them and you'll find minimal solder penetration (wow, that just turned me on....)
I've tried various methods of heating them up, but the problem is that the necessary heat for good bonding damages the plastic envelope.
The closest I've come to getting good bonding is by using flux on the exposed wires before heating them up. And it still ain't all that great.

I purchased a kit like the above through Amazon. Can't throw them out, but personally can't bring myself to use them on anything.

FYI, there are heat-shrinks out there with a built-in sealant, they're amazing and the only ones I use

 

Yeah, I hear you, peter2772000, no argument from me! I’ve used them successfully, but you need to be patient, and heat them slowly not to damage the plastic heat shrink. That being said, I definitely believe in using whatever works! I’ve also, hand soldered wires, crimped them etc. If the wires don’t have to survive a hostile outside environment, there’s a greater latitude for how much vigilance you need. Which is why I asked the original question about securing those OEM wires from the elements.

 

Never had a problem with solder penetration using them. The key is the heat gun so you can easily control the focus of heat and take your time. Beats a bullet connector any day.

 

Well then, there's something you're doing different. Again, my joints are soldered, just not thoroughly unless the clear plastic jacket gets burnt.
Have you ever skinned the clear plastic jacket in order to see the actual quality of the joint?

 

I usually call it good when the connection doesn’t come apart with a hefty yank. So far, after using about 30 of them, none have come loose.

The plastic shouldn’t burn before you get a good solder melt. Using the heat gun I get no discoloring of the cloudy/clear plastic.

 

Bud, if only 30% of the wire is soldered, you won't get it to pull apart. And I actually bought a heat gun to use with the connectors.
In the end, if you're happy with the results, that's what counts. Right?

 

Back to the OP's original post ( and bragging somewhat...), I just ordered the following;

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