Re-Boot CV's

Hey Guys,

New to the 4runners but I owned a 99 Tacoma for about 8 years back around 2003-2011/2012. I dropped an introduction in the new members threads

Just picked up a 4runner for the gf, 2016 with 65k miles. PO put a Billy coil lift on it. When I was inspecting under the car before purchase, noticed that the driver side boot was slinging grease and it looked pretty old. CV's are in fine shape, no clicking, grinding, or any odd noises. Lift caused the OEM boots to rub it looks like one got a puncture. It actually might even not be from rubbing honestly, it's more like a slice right on the rib in the shape of a "V".

Went ahead and had her purchase the Dobinsons High Angle CV boot kit. Also purchased the axle seals for the housing, mine as well do them while I'm in there.

Short of removing things out of the way to get to the point to yank out the CV shaft, is there anything in particular I should be wary of?

I notice the FSM calls for a special puller that engages on the machined slots on the inner axle housing and you use those to "pull" the axle out (kind of used as a slide hammer). Can I put a punch behind those machined walls and tap the axle out with a hand sledge instead of using that pulling action? I know space will be pretty tight.

I read a couple of threads about using a 2" PVC coupler to press the new seal in, and I've got various tools I can use to pull the old seal.

I've also read that there's a particular orientation the capturing clip needs to be in when re-installing the axle (opening facing down?). Any hints on installing that axle back into the housing?

I feel like there's a laundry list of other things I need to do to get it back to where I'm comfortable keeping track of the maintenance (I'm one of those that when I buy something new to me, I want to know when everything is done), so all the fluids will be changed also, new brake rotors and pads all around, brake bleed, etc.

Looking forward to utilizing this forum, I'm apart of a few of the for vehicles, motorcycles, and dirtbikes, but it might take me a little bit to get the formatting on this forum. Thanks in advance!!

 

It's been a long time since I did this on my 4th gen. Not sure how much it differs on the 5th.

To remove the axles, I used a slide hammer with a flat hook attachment. Used a wire or clamp to hold it in place. A couple of good pulls and the axles came right out. Rebooting was messy but pretty easy to do.

Did the hub seals while I had it open. Timken seals worked great.

 

Thanks for the reply. I figure I'll be getting messy re-booting, no worry about that.
I have a slide hammer but I don't know about an attachment that will work, that's why I was thinking I could tap from the inside out with a long punch on those machine walls.

I just went with OEM seals.

 

All my experience is 5th gen but, there is a special Toyota tool for tightening the boot clamps (09521-24010). There's also a Chinese copy that works. The Toyota one is hard to come by.

ZKTOOL CV Joint Axle Boot Drive Shaft Clamping Tool for Toyota Lexus 09521-24010 768622650422 | eBay

 

While you're in the area, I think it would be worthwhile to replace the needle bearing with the ECGS bushing. Plenty of threads and videos on this particular mod.

 

I agree with this 100%

I used the pliers style of the band clamp tool and it sucked. The style in the link above is worth its weight in gold

 

Which needle bearing needs replacement? Is this part of the CV?
Edit, ok I just watched a video. I'll see how much play they have in them, is this something that develops pretty easily? 65k on this thing, hasn't been run very hard.

I'm actually going to try out some smooth bottom worm gear clamps designed for CV's/other boots I've used in the past. If those don't work for clearance reasons then I had planned on ordering that clamping tool listed above. The handle ones are complete trash.

 

It's something that can occur with relatively low miles. There's even a TSB for diff replacement should the problem persist. They funny thing is a diff replacement doesn't solve the issue. But replacing the bearing with this bushing will.

You might not have the issue in the first place but while you're there, I think it's definitely worthwhile to change out.

 

It's just on the driver side correct, the passenger side uses something different?

 

Yep, just the driver side

 

Right on, thanks for the clarification, I'll see if she wants to spring for it right now.

Edit: I notice this in the description:

Are they saying it doesn't fit an "all-time" 4WD model? I guess being new to these (I know 4x4) but should I verify by vin or which models are the "AWD"?

^^Found a video that explained it. I think there's a bit more to the system than what the video eluded to which I'll have to look up, but it's got H2 on the knob so it's good to go

 

Does your vehicle have a 4WD shifter or 4WD switch? Then this is the right part. If you have a Limited Edition with full time 4WD then this will not fit and is not needed. They are saying it does not fit "all time" 4WD models.

 

Thanks, it has the knob switch with H2-->H4-->L4