Pulling to the right - What to look for?

So I recently changed the wheels and the tires on my 2011. The tires had about 48000 miles on them and were good for at least another 15000 miles other than the right front tire that had uneven wear just on the outside close to the sidewalk and had to be changed.
The car has been pulling to the right before I replaced the tires and still does it even after getting new tires and new alignment.
Back in May, I replaced almost the entire front suspension due to age and wear, all OEM ( front UCA, LCA, sway bar links, outer tie rods and sway bar bushings and shocks, rear shocks, links sway bar bushings) other than the inner tie rod ends. No visible leaks, clunking or vibration from them. I will lift it to see for play.
What am I looking at to address this pull. Rack and pinion, steering parts inner tie rods , sticking brake caliper or something else? I am going to spend some time on this tomorrow to see if I can figure it out.
Attaching my latest alignment sheet if it helps.

 

I had a problem with a sticking caliper on my 2011, and the result of that was warping of the rotor. That being said, I do think a sticking caliper could give you pull to one side or the other. But, you would probably experience the secondary side effect of a warped rotor. How do the brakes feel? I would check the bushings on the steering rack as well. Another thing to consider is road crown.

 

There is no brake bias or pulling while brakng.I also touch the tire after a trip to see if one is hotter than the other in case the caliper is sticking. No wrapped rotors also. I changed my front rotors and pads last year.
Any other signs of a sticking rotor other than pulling? I would assume it has to be quite apparent in normal braking.

 

I assume you mean wheel or rotor? Touching the tire isn't going to tell you diddly.

 

My bad, I meant the wheel. I did touch the rotor too, but both of them were burning hot so couldn't know the difference.

 

Since you've changed most of the outboard suspension parts, I think you might need to look deeper into rack bushings. I suppose it's possible that the inner tie rods are bad, but not likely. They are attached directly to the rack. So, if there's movement, more than likely it's going to be bushings.

 

Will do. Are these bushing on the intermediate steering shaft or rack and pinion?

 

With those above alignment specs should be good. Things to look at are the road itself; a highly cambered road can cause pull. Also try crossing tires right to left; it may be a tire pull? not likely considering new tires....but sometimes we rule out the simple things. It is like sometimes when a starter fails and we put in new one and it still don't start....we start looking at other things only to find later we got bad starter. Generally the more the positive caster on one side compensates for road crown [that is why most shops add a half degree more positive to left front]. I have also run into [rarely] a defective steering gear with internal flow problem.

 

I am now at a Toyota dealership, where I know the master tech. He has previously worked on a few things on my 4runner and I trust his diagnosis.

 

So apparently, when we installed the new lower front suspension, it was not torqued to right spec. There was a slight degree variation in mm or something which made the 2 front wheels not sit in a straight line. He retorqured the entire suspension, did an alignment and believes it solves the issue. Every other part he said showed no sign of wear or damage.
Let's hope this does the trick.

 

I must say, you hit the jackpot having a mechanic at a dealership you trust and can rely on. Hopefully this did the trick.

 

I think I did. He took 2 hours to find the problem and charged me $190 which I gladly paid.
I had this timing tensioner plate cover leak which is a $15 part and takes 30 mins tops to change.
I took it to a garage and they said my timing cover is leaking and would cost $5000 to change and would not guarantee if something else would start leaking once they open it. Took it to this guy, he cleaned it , swapped the part, charged $150 and said my timing cover was spotless.

 

Have them redo the Alignment. Your left front toe is off. Your steer ahead is off. Both are easily adjustable. They are got off by much. But you are pulling to the right.
Go back with your truck loaded with what you normally drive around with. Get a full tank of fuel. Set your tire pressure.
Make sure you bring the print out to show them the measurements.