Potential first time owner. PPI attatched below. NEED ADVICE. Total newbie. 2006 4wd 4runner.

Hey I've been wanting a used 4runner for a while. Never bought a used car in general. Not mechanic savy at all but this process is teaching me a little. Wanted a SUV that lasts a long time and i always thought 4runners were pretty cool in general. Want some feedback on a 4 runner i found

Came across a 2006 4wd 4runner V6 with 170k
12k price tag.
1 owner.
carfax says no accidents (doubt. probably a minor one in the back).
it lived most of it's life in south carolina and texas.

I had a mechanic run a pre purchase inspection on it and they gave me a detailed report. Since i have little experience with mechanics let alone 4th gen 4runners, I can't make out how good news/bad news the report was. Doesn't seem bad, doesn't seem great either. I have attached the PPI report to this post if anyone wants to look at it and give me some general feedback on what they think the state of the car is.

If you have even more time on your hands maybe answer some of these questions i have about my report after you look at it?


- Most urgent repairs?
- non urgent but needed repairs down the line?
- is that just surface rust in the engine bay? can you clean that? How bad is that? is there a service for that?
- most expensive possible repairs?
- estimated range of how much itll cost to keep this car basically running vs estimated range of how much itll cost in multiple repairs to get it in its best shape and make it last a long time? (besides regular oil change etc.)
- reports of some oil leaks and oil seepage. how bad is that? hard to say?
- why does the muffler look more rusted than the frame?
- report says they couldn't open cap of radiator or something. whats that mean?
- anything super concerning?
- how can i tell the difference between minor corrosion, major corrosion and just being dirty?
- says the boot is wet. whats a boot? is that bad?
- what do the OD II codes that popped up mean?
- transfer case is leaking which as i understand controls the transfer from 2wd to 4wd. if it's leaking can that be patched up or is that a sign that it's on it's last breath?
- how much do people usually spend on immediate repairs after buying one of these?

I know that's a lot. answer whatever you can. just trying to learn. i'm willing to put some money into repairs. i just need an idea of what im getting into. the dealer just got the car so im assuming some basic things will be fixed for state inspection before they sell it me. I also plan on negotiating the price down since 12k is already high for this car at these miles and it's in mid condition. Would love some help! thanks.

 

Minor corrosion is something just on the surface, not penetrating into metal. Like light, surface rust, that can be removed with scrubbing pads, or even just some Rustoleum paint.
Major corrosion is any that actually penetrates the metal, pitting or scoring it. The output of the muffler, for example.
Dirty is, well, just that. Dirt on the surface of the paint, or metal. Like can be washed off with soap, water, and a little elbow grease. It can, however, lead to corrosion, holding contaminants on the metal's surface while corrosion takes place.

Find out when the oil and filter was last changed. Same for transmission fluid, and differential oil.
Brake fluid last change/bleed. Last brake pad/shoe replacement. Last brake rotor replacement.
Coolant last change. Same for the thermostat. The radiator cap should be removable. Is the tension on it caused by that red lever? In any event, a good pair of channel lock pliers should be able to remove the cap. At worst, the cap will be destroyed by the removal, and need replacement, which is the case if it's stuck anyway.
When was the timing belt last changed? Spark plug last replacement? Water pump/oil pump last replaced?
When was the PCV valve last replaced? Fuel filter? Fuel filler cap? Is the o-ring on the filler cap cracked or damage in any way?

All of the above may sound like minor maintenance, but it is all REQUIRED maintenance. If they are over their required interval, they should be done.

The battery NEEDS to be cleaned with some baking soda and warm water, and a toothbrush. That includes the battery hold down. That will remove most, or all, of the corrosion that is present.
A battery cleaning tool, with a wire brush for inside, and outside of the terminals, is about $2.00 at most auto parts stores, and is vital for maintaining the battery and the terminals attached to it.
The battery needs to be load tested, and if it fails, which may be where the low voltage is coming from, replaced. In any event, if the battery voltage tests low, even after being charged up, it needs replacement. It means it's beyond it's life span, and will rapidly get weaker, until it can't start, or run your truck. It's a vital part of the electric system, and the truck won't run without it.

The engine and compartment looks to me more dusty, than rusty. Some water spray will take care of the worst of it.

The passenger side rear brake system is oily. Most likely from the axle bearing leaking, I believe. The brake shoes there should be checked, and, if contaminated with oil, replaced. Axle seal leaks can often be caused by the diff breather being clogged, although that usually causes both sides to leak. The diff breathers are very easy to remove, clean out, and reinstall, and should be done at least every year, or if mud, or heavy, dusty, dirt, is encountered.

The front CV axles should both be replaced. Period. Same for the other suspension parts that are damaged/failing. These will probably be the most expensive repairs required. They ARE, however, required, not optional. They are what let you SAFELY steer your vehicle. The CV joints, whose boots have failed, will eventually lock up. Very bad.

When was the last time the u-joints were lubed? If more than a year, it should be done. Quick/easy bit of maintenance, but very important! Remember, that there are 2 "propeller", as Toyota calls them, shafts, front and rear, that need to be done.

If the transfer case has sufficient oil in it, the seepage can be disregarded for the moment. The transfer case is actually what transfers the rotation from out the transmission to the front drive shaft, when 4WD is selected.
Same for the engine oil leaks. They seem pretty minor. Honestly, the leakage seems to be more from the main shaft seal, than the actual transfer casing. The seal is actually fairly cheap, and easy to replace.

The rust on the exhaust system is fairly normal. If it has penetrated the exhaust tubing, or the muffler, any place, they should be replaced, although a good welder can often repair such damage.

OK, my hands are starting to cramp from all this typing. So is my brain. I think you have a lot to think over, and consider, for the nonce. I don't recll you giving the cost of the vehicle, but anything below $15k, jump on it! Just my opinion, though.

Good luck!
Pat☺

 

They do last a long time, but this one is 18 years into its life. If you're going to spend 12k on something, look at a 100 series Land Cruiser or GX470.

In my opinion, spending 12k on a 18-year-old V6 4Runner is just nuts. There's really nothing special about them, you can get better for your money.

 

I don't think that's a $12k truck, but every market is different... What is going on with that hole in the door? Looks like a 12ga slug went through it!

 

I'm a huge 4Runner fan, myself. I got my pickup in 88, when it was a year old. Still have it, still runs like a top. I got an 87 4Runner in 96, for $5k, and recently sold it like in 2020, for $5k. Pretty good value retention, IMO. I spent the money on a 99 4Runner. I need a 4WD for winter time around here in the PNW. Doesn't ALWAYS snow like mad all winter, but it seems like when I HAVE to go somewhere, it does. So, I need the 4WD capability of the 4Runner. I also need the cargo capability to carry my walkers (mine and wife's), AND our mobility scooter. Since I lost 1/2 my right leg, it's pretty necessary. Surprizingly, I can still drive the manual 4Runner comfortably.

I'm going to stick with what's been reliable for me so far for the last many years.You do you, though...
Pat☺

 

From the tone of your post, it doesn’t sound like you know what you are getting into, and you’re worried about what things would cost.

A $12k used car is never a $12k used car.

$12k is what you spend to be able to spend more.

$25k gets you a 4wd 4Runner from CarMax, and you can even add a warranty onto that.

Could save you some money in the long run.

 

Super appreciate the thorough reply. Ill have a more involved reply later. however, i am wondering what the range of cost of services might look like? 5,000 dollars? 13,000 dollars? i know it's hard to say but I'd like to get an idea.
I mentioned the price is 12k which i think is high for it's age and miles compared to similar listings. Especially due to the extra work ill have to put in for it. I can probably negotiate down to 9k.
I have outside financing loan approved for 24k. so anything in that range im approved for and my bank said i can use some of that loan for repairs if i dont use the full 24k
so i have a choice between getting a 2014-2017 4runner for around 20k or getting a 4th gen that's a fixer upper (which id hope would be a fun project but just might end being a headache.) not sure yet.
would love to get an estimate on services though, even it's broad.

also i dont know if this matters but apparently this model has a timing chiain and not a timing belt.

 

so i spend 12k to spend what? another 12k? 7k? what? Appreciate the honesty! Yeah. I like new projects but maybe i shouldn't dive into this so headfirst. I'm also considering a 2016 with 150k miles that's 10k more expensive but in better shape.

 

Do you really want to be making payments on an 18-year-old vehicle? (Especially at today's interest rates) Taking a loan on that age of vehicle, and then wrapping even more repair cost into it does not sound like a sound financial decision.

If you're financed up to 24K, I would look for a much newer one. Especially because, and I'm not saying this in any negative way at all, you do not sound like a DIY type person.

I don't think you mentioned what your intended usage was for the 4Runner, only that you've always wanted one. I get that, we want what we want, and it may not always be practical. That said, though, depending on your use case, the 4Runner may not be the best tool for the job.

When I bought my fifth gen, it was 6 years old at the time and I paid 23k for it, it was because I had a requirement of off-road capability. If I didn't have that requirement, I 100% know I would be much happier in a Highlander.

Oh, and just FYI, all years of 4.0 V6 have the timing chain. I do prefer a timing chain over a timing belt, but if I was looking at a forerunner of this generation it would definitely be a V8, despite the timing belt.

Check out the '05 to '09 Lexus GX470. It should come in around the same price, and it's basically a V8 4Runner with a nicer interior. If I was spending 9 to 12k on an 18-year-old Toyota product, it would be one of those. OR, the '05 to '07 Sequoia is a nice vehicle too, with the 4.7 V8 and it should come in less expensive than that 4Runner, while having a more spacious interior.

Edit: I don't know where you're located, but here's a GX470 in Georgia, so chances are it's not a rusty piece of crap.
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/...=atempest4&utm_campaign_id=2&utm_trusted=TRUE

 

From the pictures I see a timing cover leak, steering rack leak, front CV axle leak, and rear passenger axle shaft leak that probably contaminated the wheel bearing. These four items alone would be about $6k to fix at a shop. This is on top of several little things that'll nickel-and-dime you to death, like sway bar links, lower ball joints, and tie rod ends.

The transfer case output shaft seal leak is relatively cheap to fix, like an hour labor + $30 in parts so under $200 at a shop.

You'll have to decide on how far to take the body rust repairs. There's a bullet hole in the driver side rear door jamb that's allowing rain water to flow into the rear quarter panel cavity:



The 1GR-FE V6 up to 2006 is prone to head gasket leaks. This particular 4Runner was built in Aug 2005 according to the VIN label. The report mentions the mechanic was unable to open the radiator cap to inspect the coolant, but the engine currently doesn't have performance issues, so it will probably be some time before a head gasket leak develops in this 4Runner. That is a future expense you'll have to budget for.

 

Oof. I didn't open up the file, but this thing sounds like a pile. I would strongly advise the OP to run.

 

I would agree. There are some things that are concerning beyond the usual age related issues (which are multiple). The Inner CV boot is open, and it’s bone dry. Suggests to me it’s been open to environment for a long time. That tells me it probably hasn’t been in 4wd for a long time, and nobody has noticed (which suggest poor maintainance). Not sure if the report mentioned if the 4wd even functions correctly.

It’s also not making heat until it’s warm, which points to either low coolant level, or a bad water pump. Maybe it it just needs to be bled. I’d worry how long it’s been run with low coolant like that.

The rust noted on the body not just rust, it’s from body panel/door damage. And that hole looks a lot like a bullet hole if you ask me. (It’s not rust perforation).

4runners are only desirable because they offer good value given their reliability and longevity. If you buy a vehicle that has already used up the life of the most of the expensive components, there’s probably not much value left. That’s with a vehicle that’s otherwise perfect. This one has some mysteries that may turn out to be even more expensive.