New Fumoto oil drain valve broke during install

Like many on here, I got the fumoto drain valve to replace the regular one. When torquing it down (30ftlbs) the valve completely sheared off at the threads. It never even got close to the max torque, or even hard to turn at all, it just sheared off like it was butter. I don’t think it was cross threaded or anything like that..

the rest of the threads are still in the oil pan drain. Is the only way to fix this by removing the entire oil pan?

 

use flat screwdriver , don't panic take time it will come out

 

thanks..I am panicking a bit lol. At least it happened while sitting in my garage rather than flying down the highway.

can you elaborate a bit about using the screw driver? Do you mean finding the right size that I can wedge into the exposed threads and try unscrewing?

 

You should be able to chase it out of not cross threaded. Remove shields to get all the access you can and take your time.

That drain looks like a poor casting if that is how it is manufactured.

 

just hit it slowly counter clock, slowly will come out.

 

If you aren't able to get it out by tapping with a screwdriver you should be able to get it out with a screw extractor set. Most hardware stores should sell them.

 

Ok..it came out pretty easy. I started running it out, but this thing is so soft that the screw driver made a grove in the metal after a couple taps. I was able to use the groove to unscrew it the rest of the way by hand.

 

Here are the best pics I could get.

 

Congratulations on getting that cat out. Some people can go their entire life and not get one to come out like that. That material seemed to help it come out.

Do you still have the original drain plug to go back in?

 

Yeah, I’m putting the original one back in for now. I’d love to have one of these Fumoto valves..but after this I’m a bit gun shy on them lol. I’ll have to read around a bit on them, but so far I’ve only heard good things.

 

I have Valvomax on my 4Runner, Tundra and Lawn equipment with no issues.

Opinions vary greatly on forums, So possibly a little more research if you want to back away from Fumoto..

I would definitely be sending Fumoto a call/email and advise them of this issue.

Good luck.

 

30? I think the bolt just wants 13 or so. I just snug it because there’s no real pressure there.

 

Did you have the seal washer on there? The way it broke on that last thread looks like the threads may have bottomed out in the pan before the shoulder of the valve came up flush.

Personally I stay away from these as the risk of having one bust off dumping all the oil out of my engine is not worth the convenience of getting my hands dirty a few more times a year.

 

Maybe I made the mistake of using the factory spec of 30 ft lbs and assumed the same applied to fumoto? Still though, I feel like it was no where close to 30 ft lbs before it sheared off. The material just seems very soft though, a few light taps with a screw driver left a giant groove. Maybe it’s operator error instead of a faulty product, I’ll go dig around their website.

 

It could just be a faulty valve but even with the OEM bolt I would just snug. I never had issues with their valves but switched to Stahlbus to try something else.

 

oil extractor pump is the way to go for me. Look it up,

 

Looks like a typical brass valve? Should be quite corrosion resistant (so it won't be stuck after one winter), but brass is obviously softer than the steel used in the drain plug. Use a 10" wrench and tighten by hand until snug.

I don't bother with Fumoto valves because I would get my hand dirty with the filter anyway, but many people like them.

 

Depends on what Fumoto you got it could be 30ft'lbs

https://help.fumotousa.com/en-us/Knowledge/article/3018/How_much_should_I_torque_my_Fumoto_product

 

Why cuz he was trying to double the recommended tq?
F133 looks to be one of those thats only 15 ft lbs

Mistakes happen I personally don't trust adding a valve. Take couple seconds more to drain with a bolt.

 

I put the

$36 Fumoto F133S with LC-10 S-Series Large Body FUMOTO Valve with Short Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for 12mm-1.25 Gold

Fumoto F133S in mine at 1k mi and installed with the supplied crush washer. I used an adjustable wrench tightening it until it was just nice and snug. I have no concerns with it's placement as it is high up enough and is protected by my RCI engine skid.

 

Ok, seeing the link you shared, 30 ft-lbs is definitely too much for this valve, but I feel that I was still quite a bit below 30 ft lbs, it's not like it was tight and I was giving a few extra pushes until I heard the clicks. Regardless..whatever force I was at was obviously too much, and there doesn't seem to be much tolerance for error with brass fittings. I'll probably just stick with the regular set up going forward.

 

15ft lbs is almost nothing

Gotta imagine stock drain bolt is 30ft lbs and people snug that and quarter turn at most. This is half that plus its brass.

I'm sure this mistake was done plenty of times it happens.

 

My back-of-the-envelope calculation estimates that if you replaced the stock drain plug with an identical brass one, you'd have to reduce the torque to something like 21 ft-lb. Of course the true difference would depend on the properties of the particular alloy of each. I make no representation of what the correct answer is, just noting that brass isn't as strong.

 

That is brass. No way it is going to stand up to that much torque.

I also would like to know where it was purchased from. I have been suspicious of Amazon knock-offs for a number of products now. Amazon is the new Ebay. Some things are better off purchased from the real manufacturers website.

 

15 ft lbs is 180 inch lbs. I work on aircraft, and I have a 0 - 200 inch lb torque wrench that I use all the time. 180 inch lbs is a pretty hard pull. I can see where a soft metal such as brass would have snapped in the threaded area.

 

Same here. Gently snug by hand and a half turn. No pressure on this drain. Works like a charm! Don’t be too gun shy. Next one will work fine and it is easier and cleaner to change oil. I am always glad I installed. If you’re not rock crawling you won’t shear it off.

 

I recently over filled oil when doing a oil change. With the fumoto it made draining some out a breeze. Definitely not something we plan for but it happens.

 

I'm also going to assume your in/lb torque wrench is small on purpose to prevent the leverage.

 

Potentially unpopular opinion offered with only good intentions:

I've been wrenching on things from lawn mowers to performance motorcycle engines for over 40 years. This looks like a simple case of over tightening to me.

*This* thread is clearly in the over-analysis and evidence-free theorizing stage now.

Fitting is brass, small diameter, and hollow (to allow fluid exit). Original fitting was a solid (steel?) plug. Book torque spec no longer applies.

Anyone want to take a shot at at torque angle to failure test graph?

Jason

p.s. - I have a long history of stripping and breaking fasteners, particularly was a young kid and my only wrench was a 20" ratchet my dad gave me. I still suffer from tendency to gorilla fist. Not trying to claim superiority here.

 

Has your torque wrench been calibrated recently?

Did it come with a certificate proving calibration from the factory?

Was that calibration verified by an independent entity?

Was the independent entity's certification verified by another independent entity?