Need New Engine: Which One?

Hi there folks,

I appreciate you taking the time to read this.

I've had this '91 toyota 4runner with a 22re for almost one year. Previous owner claims he rebuilt the engine but recently its started limping one 3 valves, 4th not giving full compression. My mechanic, Don, says she's old and on her way out.

Been doing research and basically what I've come up with is:

New/Rebuilt 22re = fastest, easiest, cheepest
3RZ-FE 2.7 = more power, more $$, more modifications

There're a few other engine options i know as well.

What do you all think???
My budget is low.

~Cheers

 

I was more than happy with the power my 22re produced. But it was in a P/U and a manual trans....
I vote 22re!!!

 

You’re budget will be your guide. I went to Yota1 for replacement engine. Has worked out so far on my 88 pickup.

 

If you have the money, put the 3.4 V6 in.

 

Thanks guys, I definitely want more horse power if can afford it.

Does anyone know specifics of how the conversions work with putting in the 3.4 vs the 2.7?
Will it cost more in labor and parts basically?
what will I need?

Thx

 

Toyonlyswaps.com

 

whats the gas mileage like with the 3.4 v6 in a manual transmission?

 

Mine on 33s factory gears gets like 15-16

 

Super helpful, thanks

 

This seems like a good deal. They say its for a T100 but will it fit in the 2nd gen 4runner?

https://www.enginesus.com/product/rebuilt-toyota-3rzfe-engine-for-94-99-t-100/

...and this link has the 22re

https://www.enginesus.com/product/r...-engine-with-new-head-for-the-85-95-4-runner/

 

The 2.7 has variable valve cam timing if I recall correctly? My guess is you will need the ECU and some of the other intake pieces like the AFM or MAF if the T100 has a MAF. This will take you into OBDII for the smog and a referee station will be needed for the transformation unless you live outside CA and are in an an unincorporated area of the USA. Then the wiring harness will need to be gone through too. If you were going to go to all this trouble, the 3.4 L with four valves per cylinder is more fuel efficient and has more torque and more HP than the 2.7 or the 22R for that matter. If you stick with the 22R a header and some LC engineering goodies for the internals would be the way to go as they have all the best of things for the engine when you rebuild it. I ran a 22R with Mikunies, a Downey Off-Road Muscle CAM and a DT header on my 1982 long bed 4X4. It would easily do >90 MPH running 32x11.50 R 15's with 4.88:1 R&P's and a substantial lift kit on the suspension. I remember driving out to Havasu AZ to get my new engine from LC and averaged 9 MPG running the Mikunis wide open and pushing the truck as fast as it would go across the stretch from 29 Palms to the Colorado river. I remember really hating that 85 MPH speedometer as it was pegged the whole way there.

 

Ok, I’m going with a 22re from Yota1. What are your thoughts on the stock build vs the stage 1. I’ve ordered the stock motor but is it worth switching to the stage 1 for more power? 1991 4runner. It’s about $400 more. I feel I want more power for hauling more gear on trips but maybe just a new stock motor will feel better. My budget is low for sure but this is a big decision for the long term.

thanks,
Andrew

 

The stock 22R is making around 109 HP. The best thing I ever did was the Mikuni's, cam and DT-header with stock block and head. But smog checks were a no go with this settup. The 22R head and RE don't flow as well as the 20R head. But those 20R heads can be hard to find. The suction efficiency with side drafts will likely get you more power than $400 worth of internal mods and you will probably be needing to run premium grade gasoline because of the increased CR with new pistons and rings, if that is what stage 1 does? So that will increase the heat load and your cooling system will need to be top condition. The 4Runner with a 22R is very under powered. The 40 more HP with the 3.0 L 3VZ-E is a welcome addition from what I remember with my 22R powered 82 long bed. At 5,200 lbs. GVWR these things are tanks, but this is partly why they are so blastedly reliable!... If stage 1 will get you north of 120 HP you will feel the difference.

 

Definitely go 22RE. Definitely go Stage 1. I’ve never heard anyone regret having more power. Just my .02

 

Yota1 is good to deal with. I got my 3VZE long block from them; easy start to finish.

 

Thanks for the input guys. Looks like it'll be about $520 more for the stage 1 build. That includes a performance cam and port work, new oil pan and pickup tube. total = $ 2919.25. The standard 22re would come out to $1884.13. These include a $400 core charge that'll be refunded when i return my old core.

They say the stage 1 adds 10-15 Hp so 119-124 Hp vs the standard 109 Hp. The question is, is that worth $520 dollars more and how will more power affect the old transmission, clutch etc. (both were supposedly rebuilt by last owner). I suspect once the old motor is out i'll find I may want to replace other things while I'm in there. Maybe in over my head but giving it shot. Probably will be without a car for a few weeks.

Maybe its worth saving money on the motor and just making modifications to the stock 22re, similar to what atgparker suggested. I have a couple weeks to decide if I want to change my order from stock to stage 1.

 

I know this is all money but if you can spring for the Stage 1 the CAM and head porting will be a good thing in all cases. Second to this I would get a bored out throttle body, CAI and a DT-header or a Rock Ripper header from LC. Then 2-1/2" the exhaust thru an HP-2 Flow master muffler for a little acoustic cancelled back pressure, no CAT and that should be about all you could do with the power trains ability to breath and expel. Other than this you might re-curve the centrifugal advance in the distributor with a spring kit form NorthWest-Offroad or perhaps LC has this, that is if the RE still has a distributor like I had on my 1982 22R? Your 91 is OBD I so you have an ECM and probably a different distributor with crank triggering in it. Hey but some fresh Denso plug wires would be a good idea regardless.

Good luck with the build no matter what you end up with it will be a fresh rebuild and will have more power and torque than you have now.

 

That's great info, thanks parker.