KDSS sway bar bushings?

I know it’s been talked about plenty but I haven’t found a definitive answer.

Needing to replace sway bar bushings on my Kdss 4Runner. Does anyone have a step by step on doing this?

I wish there was a video on this. Honestly can’t believe I can’t find one. Seems like a common issue.

Really don’t want to damage Kdss system or overextend.

 

Just wondering how you determined you need to replace the bushings. I have the same model/year.

 

Process of elimination I guess. Also trying to start with inexpensive fixes. Crawled under vehicle and inspected inside of bushings. Haven’t pulled the wheels to inspect the other side but the driver side has a small gap and some cracking.

Not sure if this will solve my issue but the annoying rattle over small potholes and bumps is driving me crazy.

 

Why would you think a rattle would be caused by bushings? I would think more of a thud sound for bushings.

 

It’s a fast, constant rattle while going over small bumps or any type of “linear” movement. Not like heat shield rattle but fairly aggressive metal on metal. I consider a “thud” to be abrupt and not constant.

 

I'd check rear KDSS cylinder. Mine was replaced under warranty and I had the same noise as you.

 

Was it covered under power train or basic? I’m at 50k miles.
Just had a less than pleasant experience with water pump replacement under warranty.

They damaged radiator and tried to tell me it was already damaged. Needless to say they, they replaced radiator for no cost as well after back and forth bs.

Not thrilled with this rig.

 

Basic warranty.

 

Sorry no idea how to fix but curious what bushing?



Any pics?
I've only seen people having leaks from the cylinder visible on that rubber cover kinda thing.

 

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I have no leaking from any cylinder

 

My cylinder had no evident leaking, but it was shot per the dealership.

 

I didn't even look at those. Thanks for sharing. I will remember to check when I clean my buddy's 4R soon. Waiting for a little warmer weekend.

 

Very interesting you see no visible leaks and no warning on dash. If were to pay out of pocket I would wait for visible signs or warning light on dash.

 

Correct, no apparent leaking and no warning light ever came on. Piston replaced and noise went away.

The only KDSS light on get on my dash now is when I disable it with dr. kdss switch. Many other irritating noises still exist.

 

It is a pretty straight-forward process to remove the bushings (just unscrew the 2 bolts holding the bottom collar and replace the rubber bushing). I have gone through this on my truck when I installed my Dobinsons suspension. You can do it at home but highly recommend a floor jack to get the sway bar back in place.

The ToyTec video below does a great job of explaining how to connect back the sway bar (I am not affiliated with them in any way). The video was a life-saver as I couldn't figure out how to get the rear sway bar connected on the passenger and wound up stripping one of my bolts (that I had to replace)!

I believe I had the front-end up on jack stands when I connected the sway bar. The rear end needs to be on the ground when you connect that sway bar.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4s7hI_3Pb4A

 

So I did change the bushings. Pretty simple process actually with a jack to support cylinder and tires on the ground. Still got the clunking.

NOW TODAY!!!

While replacing rotors and pads, I discovered another huge issue. I jacked vehicle off the ground and heard a pop. The F’ing upper ball joint completely dislodged from the UCA. Thus dropping the knuckle down. I’ve attached a pic.

Has anyone ever seen this before? Hoping this is the culprit to the clunking.

 

I've never seen the balljoint just fall out like that before, outside of accidents. I can tell it hasn't seen grease for a long time. You'll have to replace the arms. Probably a godsend for you because most new arms are easily serviceable. And you could find a good set for less than OEM arms. If you plan on getting a lift...go with an aftermarket set of arms. If not, replace with OEM to maintain the proper angles with the suspension. And get an alignment to ensure things are kosher after you replace the arms. Just my $0.02.

 

Just an update. Went with the Eibach pro truck lift stage 1. Also went with freedom off-road UCA’s. Thanks everyone

 

Hey, did that resolve your clunking? i.e. was it the ball joint after all?