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Invest or Sell 2007 4Runner Limited v8

Discussion in '4th Gen 4Runners (2003-2009)' started by Mal217, Apr 23, 2025 at 1:33 PM.

  1. Apr 23, 2025 at 1:33 PM
    #1
    Mal217

    Mal217 [OP] New Member

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    3" Fox 2.5 lift
    I'm struggling to decide what to do with my 2007 4runner V8. It has 230k miles and has been well maintained, but now needs 7-10k of investment to replace front suspension, AC system and power steering. The engine runs great and I'm the original owner, but I'm on the fence about how deep the costs may run over the next 5 years to keep this running. While I perform some maintenance myself like drivetrain fluids and brakes/rotors, I'm not skilled enough to perform major repairs. Should I invest and keep this car running - or sell and buy something newer. I like the V8 power and handling better than my 2016, but I'm anxious about the unpredictable expenses. I'd love opinions and wisdom of veteran 4runner owners - especially thoughts on likely expenses I will encounter.
     
  2. Apr 23, 2025 at 2:12 PM
    #2
    TrueTexas

    TrueTexas New Member

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    Hi Mike.
    Provided the frame is rust free, I personally would keep the 07 v8. You won't find another 4Runner with a v8 and other than it being an interference motor, it is fantastic.

    The service manuals are online. Suspension is an easy job. Sounds like maybe an independent shop would be more cost effective for the other stuff.

    What exactly is wrong with the power steering and AC?

    Also, have you done the timing belt recently?
     
  3. Apr 23, 2025 at 2:45 PM
    #3
    ChessGuy

    ChessGuy New Member

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    2020 TRD Pro / 2017 Tacoma TRD Pro
    Too many..... Performance: • Magnusum Supercharger • Gibson exhaust with dual black tip • Pedal Commander * PowerBrakes • Suspension – Old Man Emu BP-51 front and back with Medium load coils • Tires: AT3 Faulken Wildpeak – 285/70/17 • Wheels: Relations Race Wheels, RR7-H with -12 offset • Full roof rack and ladder by Westcott Design (removed the stock Yakima basket) • Molle storage panels by Rago fabrication • Front light brackets by Rago • Illuminator light bracket by Rago (roof rack location) Lights • Morimoto front and back with sequential signals • Morimoto fog lights and side mirrors with sequential signals • 40” Baja design light bar for roof rack • 20” S8 Baja design driving combo (winch location) • Squadron sport baja design ditch lights • S2 Chase lights by baja designs (mounted on roof) In the bay: • Odyssey 34-PC Battery • SDQH Aluminum billet battery terminals and bracket • Switch Pro 9100 with aluminum tray • Anytime front and back camera • ARB twin compressor Recovery & Protection: • Smittybilt X20 synthetic rope winch • Factor 55 fairlead and flatlink • Southern Style Off-road (SSO) low profile bumper • SSO stage 2 high clearance wings • Weekend warrior recovery kit by treaty oak • RCI – skid plates – entire vehicle + catalytic converter protection wings Interior: • Nano Ceramic IR – Avery Dennison Window tint – all windows • Several phone mounts • Upgraded Rear Hatch lift gate struts (ladder is heavy) • Boom blaster horn switch (featuring La cucaracha)
    If money is not an issue and you could turn the V8 into a little fun project, I would keep it and do the repairs and just enjoy the process etc. But, if money is tight and you have already another 4R and you don't really need the extra vehicle, then the answer is pretty straighforward. I always wanted a V8, but couldn't find one that was in decent shape. Good luck. Post pics of the rigs and show us what you got!
     
  4. Apr 23, 2025 at 2:58 PM
    #4
    Airdam

    Airdam New Member

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    I assume you are in the north? Salty roads? Front lower A-arm adjusters seized up? You can replace the lower A-arms and can adjusters and bolts for like $500, it takes a sawzall to cut the lower pins and the A-arms will fall out and you can punch the rest of the parts out with a small hammer and pin punch and then wire brush everything, paint, anti-seize all the new parts when you go back together.

    Are you sure on the AC system whats wrong? The compressor, drier, and evaporator with labor and all is about $3500 going back with Toyota parts. Should be much cheaper going with cheap-o parts.

    Power steering lines are at a funny angle and the lines normally leak. On the rare occasion i have seen the whole reservoir leak but none of these are super expensive. The lines are higher priced than they should be but i dont see how any of this should add up to the prices you are likely being quoted.

    Have you ever replaced the timing belt and water pump? These are the major killers of the engine and which almost instantly turn the whole vehicle into a scrap pile.
    The AC compressors dont normally go bad, but i have seen the clutch not engage before. More than likely you are low on refrigerant and since the pressure is low, the computer wont kick the compressor on. Since the compressor wont kick on the AC wont blow cold. The most likely culprit for this is the evaporator inside the dash. They are aluminum and have o-ring seals and at the age of your vehicle those o-rings are getting dry and cracking and cause leaks. Almost every one of these i have seen without AC has an evaporator leak which you cant find with the dye and UV glasses. The job sucks cause you gotta rip out the whole interior to swap out the evaporator and drier. I only use Toyota parts because trust me, you dont wanna have to do the job twice. The original parts got you right at 20 years so go back with Toyota... I literally just did one of these two weeks ago and its about $2300 labor and all for the Toyota drier, Toyota evaporator, Toyota antifreeze, and refrigerant.
    The suspension problems are typically from not being serviced or used and rusting up and it sucks but its not terrible to fix and not all that costly
     
    LOSTR4 and Photon_Chaser like this.
  5. Apr 24, 2025 at 10:30 AM
    #5
    gkomo

    gkomo New Member

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    Well i bought my 04 v8 Limited with 237k on it. I've put like $6-8k into it (some of that was fun mods though). Just don't see the point in buying a $50k newer 4runner when i could be 'all in' for like $15k on mine and feel fairly reasonably that it'll be reliable on road trips and what not. I also have a toddler and another on the way, and i don't mind my 4runner taking an interior beating. My vote would be to keep it and fix as necessary.
     
    Bagman likes this.
  6. Apr 24, 2025 at 10:48 AM
    #6
    Lc200

    Lc200 New Member

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    IF the engine is good and the frame is rust free what you are changing are normal wear items of the car.
    Once you replace these, you are good for another 200k.
    Be aware, parts will fail as you get up there in mileage.
     
  7. Apr 24, 2025 at 11:15 AM
    #7
    Hungryhawk

    Hungryhawk New Member

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    Your average annual mileage is about 12,000.
    So you use it a lot. When it is parked for repairs-do you have other vehicles to use?
    Do you have indoor space to park it while it is being fixed?
    Health events with you or your family can derail needed repairs.
    Do you carry full insurances? If damaged in accident, what will your insurance consider the salvage value. There are fixed value policies available thru specialy insurance companies so you can fairly recover your investments of time & parts. Otherwise its market value will dictate repairs or salvage.
     
  8. Apr 24, 2025 at 12:52 PM
    #8
    FourBelugas

    FourBelugas New Member

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    If it works for you, keep it. You can't beat a vehicle you know the history of.

    if you are tired of it, sell it and let someone else enjoy it.

    Just keep in mind that a new Limited starts at 60k and goes up quickly, if you want to stay in a 4runner. Used 5th gens are not much cheaper with the ceiling being so high now.
     
  9. Apr 24, 2025 at 1:17 PM
    #9
    3JOH22A

    3JOH22A トヨタ純正男娼

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    Rust level of both the body and frame? The sunroof drains into the rockers and can rust them out. Are your rockers in good shape?

    Exhaust manifolds replaced?

    Rear wheel bearings replaced?
     
    LOSTR4 likes this.
  10. Apr 25, 2025 at 7:17 PM
    #10
    Bluesky 07

    Bluesky 07 Not a New Member

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    “Deep” Satoshi grille | X-REAS delete / Eibach | Weathertech front & rear mats | Tinted front windows | Floor Armor cargo mat | TPMS bypass | LED interior, tag, & reverse lights | BlueSea Systems console USB power ports | Pioneer AVH-2550NEX HU + Audiovox backup camera | Fumoto F-103S | Rockville lo-pro subwoofer | Kenwood speakers & KAC-M1804 amp | Philips H9/9011 headlight bulbs | Wolfbox G850 Pro dash/rear cam | Map light mod | Breather mod | OBD Fusion diagnostics
    A few things seem to be often overlooked in these decisions. First, like everyone else, I’d like to know the source of the $7-10K estimate. If it’s a dealer, get a second opinion from a shop with a solid local reputation.

    With today’s prices (even used), you might spend $7-10K on payments over the first year.

    And the biggest one - whatever you buy will have its own issues, so you’ll be paying for that and a payment. As others have said, if the rust is reasonable, I’d prioritize keeping what you have if at all possible
     

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