In dash "D"rive light indicator problem.

A few years ago I went to a Toyota dealership and they noticed that when you shift between gears, all of the positions light up in my dash display EXCEPT the "D" (drive position). They told me that I had a bad bulb in the dash. I told them okay, go ahead and replace the bulb and while you are in there replace all of my dash bulbs since the SUV is 20 years old and the bulbs could go at any time. I don't want to tell you what they charged to replace the bulbs. So after I pay them, I get in my car to drive home and THE "D" IS STILL NOT LIGHTING UP WHEN I PUT IT IN DRIVE! Of course I was irate and immediately called the dealership when I got home and gave them a piece of my mind. They claim that they will find the problem and not charge me further when I bring it back in. We will see if they are good to their word. My question is what could be causing only one of the 5 or so slots to not light up. I mean "R", "N", "1" light up but not "D". To me it seems that only one light would light up all of them and that some sort of physical cover makes sure that only one will show lit up at one time as you shift through the gears, but I don't know how this stuff works. Can anyone explain the mechanism and what could be wrong that causes the "D" position to stay dark? It sure seems like a dealership would know this and not tell me it is a light if it isn't.

 

I'd guess and I could be wrong if it's a cluster of an issue their not going to fix it for nothing. The mechanic certainly should of noticed the D not lighting up when he completed the job but I can't see them covering taking the whole dash apart to chase a ghost of a problem. Perhaps I'm wrong but let us know how you make out.

 

From what I can see on the wiring diagram in the FSM, there's a switch that selects what light should be lit. They call it the Park/Neutral Position Switch. It applies power to the correct bulb when the shifter is in that light's position. You can see it on the wiring diagram below:
I suspect that your trouble may be the switch, or the wire going to the Drive light. Maybe a plug somewhere along the wire's routing. I strongly suspect the switch, though. Hope this is a little help.


PS: It looks to me like that Park/Neutral switch is on the shifter itself. You might be able to open it up and clean it out? A possibility.
Pat☺

 

The problem is THEY are the one that noticed the problem. THEY were the one that specifically told me there was a bulb out. THEY were the one that charged me over $300 to tear it down and replace "all " the bulbs to fix that specific problem. THEY were the ones that handed it back without fixing the problem. I spent the money for nothing and only did it because they told me that would fix it. We will see but what I am trying to understand is how the mechanisms work to try to understand all the things that could cause something like this because obviously the dealer didn't think of all the possibilities.

 

Thanks Phantom. That is the kind of information I need.

 

Phantom, all other positions other than "D" light up appropriately. Do you think this means the wire leading from the switch to "D"

 

Phantom one more question. I see you own a 1987 4runner. Can you confirm that wire diagram you provided is for a 3rd Gen 4runner? Mine is a 2001.

 

The diagram mentions ECT PWR, I don't think first gen 4runners had that

 

That diagram is so helpful. At least now I can talk with the mechanic in a reasonably intelligent manner.

 

Yes, I CAN confirm that it's for a 3rd gen 4Runner. I've got FSMs for many years of trucks, in PDF format, picked up online. This site, YotaTech, etc etc.

Yes, it COULD be the wire going to the gauge cluster to light the light. More likely, IMHO, for what that's worth, it's more likely the switch contacts. A little dirt, or corrosion, etc., can do a lot of harm. You might mention it to the stealership. Obviously, whoever worked on it wasn't all that familiar with the older trucks, lazy enough to not bother checking the switch, whatever. A lot of the time, these trucks are older than the mechs assigned to work on them. Sometimes by double. Think about it.

Glad this was a little help
Pat☺

 

Second, on the neutral switch... The position contact is probably worn. Test it this way... When in drive, play with the gear shift a bit and see if it turns on....

Wait, that didn't come out right...

Cheers,

Sean

 

Hey, what someone does in the privacy of their truck is their business. I don't judge. As the current saying goes, you do you.


Each to their own, after all. Just watch out for pervy truckers that can, and do, look down into your truck!
Pat☺

 

I will try these things. I know it is a "stealership" but I am pretty sure they are going to fix this free of charge since they told me the wrong diagnosis before. They will charge me for parts only is what I am hoping.

 

I have this same issue but on a 2015 fifth generation, digital indicator, D - drive indicator goes blank and then warning lights start popping on 4 wd lo light flashes, "trac Off" goes on, any thoughts is this also a neutral safety switch issue like on the third generation above, anybody have wiring diagram ?

 

A 2015 is a whole other animal. Best to ask in the 5th gen section.

Regardless, looking at the diagram above, there is no "Neutral Safety switch" that I can see. There is a "Park/Neutral Position Switch" which is basically the automatic transmission shifter. I thought a Neutral Safety switch was for manual transmission cars.

Regardless, it's probably in the Park/Neutral position switch. If you have a bunch of other lights come on when in "D", then maybe it's the gauge cluster but usually rule out the moving parts like the shifter first. Again 5th gen owners will probably have more experience and also be able to point you to a wiring diagram.

I get all my Factory Service Manuals (actual factory manuals and not Chiltons/Haynes) from ebay through electronic downloads. Usually $5-$10 and totally worth it.

 

Yes and no. The manual transmissions, at least in the older trucks, have a Clutch safety system. You either need to have the clutch pedal fully depressed, OR the Clutch Cancel switch clicked.
Whether you're in gear, and if so, what gear you might be in, doesn't matter. Much. If you use the Clutch Cancel switch, obviously, you either need to be neutral, or have the clutch pedal depressed, or the starter will try to move the truck as you crank.

In any event, the system doesn't seem to care where the shifter, or transmission, might be, as far as position. They pretty much leave the safety aspect up to the wing-nut behind the wheel. IMHO, that's the beauty of a manual transmission. Shift points, use of compression braking, starting, all that fun stuff, is left to driver.

Aside from being a control freak, I guess, preferring a manual by far over an automatic, the auto has many more gimmicks, safety systems, etc, to fail. No thanks.

All just me, though. It's getting harder and harder to even FIND a manual any more, since no one is learning how to drive one. No demand, no supply, yes? Oh well. I guess I'll have to just stick to my old, manual trucks. They DO get stolen less, as fewer and fewer criminals even know what a manual transmission is, let alone how to use that third pedal over there on the left...

Have fun, all!
Pat☺

 

My 2011 4 runner does same thing usually can tell its going to happen when try to shift it feels really stiff. Car will go in gear and drive if I dont notice and will throw trac off as well as check engine light. What I have found is move shift lever back and forth from drive to neutral quickly until the D comes on. Also seems to happen mostly on Cold days. Pretty sure its happening because of actuator switches in the transmission are sticking possibly a tranny fluid service with a good cleaning flush will fix the problem just havent gotten around to it

 

I could print you one. I have a couple of nice, round, tuits here somewhere.

I had a few square ones, but they started to smell funny, so I tossed them.

Have fun!
Pat☺

 

i seen a guy fix this issue by adjusting the switch on the drivers side of the transmission , he just loosened the bolts and twisted it one way or the other until the( D )lit up

 

Here’s this out of Haynes repair manual