Heated steering wheel mod - success!

So I plan to add heat to my 2015 SR5P steering wheel. After reading this thread I am convinced that it can be done to our 4Runners.

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/diy-heated-steering-wheel.1722057/

I recently bought a used cheap steering wheel which matched what I currently have from Facebook marketplace. Bought it to examine, take apart, etc.

So this is the first thing I need help with;

The 2 connectors inside the steering wheel have empty slots. I plan to use them to run the wire(s) from/to the heat pads/switch. My question is, where do these connectors end up (through the clockspring) and on the other side of the steering wheel? And specifically, which wire(s) on the backside relate to the blank slots on the connectors? I am not an automotive electrical expert nor good at reading wiring diagrams but I am willing to tackle this mod if I can get some expert help. Any advice or leads on where to start looking would be greatly appreciated! Here are the 2 connectors in question which shows the empty slots I plan to use;

 

Glanced through the other thread and it seems like the corollas are wired for heated steering wheel as well.

Sounds like he found a clock spring with the heating to support it. Not sure if the 4R has this wiring. Best bet it to buy a subscription to ToyotaTIS to see the wiring. Or get someone to take apart their heated wheel for you.

 

There’s this option coming soon: https://www.4runners.com/threads/2010-2022-heated-wheel-retrofit.34762/

 

Yes I did see that post as well. The reason I chose not to go with that mod is 1, the OEM heated wheel is quite costly. More than I am willing to pay for this mod. 2, the OEM heated wheel only heats 3 and 9 o'clock of the steering wheel if I understand correctly. Doing it this way is more cost effective and would heat the whole steering wheel. I would think you would need a new clockspring as well if you do Old Red's retrofit? I guess I would have to wait and see.

 

Actually the OP in other post used factory clockspring with no heat option. That is why he had to run the extra wire through an empty slot on a paddle shift connector. I am looking to do this mod a similar way - run a wire(s) through an empty slot. Just need to figure out how to do that.

 

I am not following you. So is the wheel on your photo not a OEM wheel? Which would only heat at 3 and 9 positions. Or are you somehow retrofitting a heat pad behind the leather of the wheel?

Is the wheel in the photo above heated?

 

Let me start looking through the 2010 wiring diagram and see what I can find. Will post updates when I find, time permitting, as the manual I have is not labelled/organized very well.

 

The photo of the wheel above is an OEM wheel - non heated. I bought to experiment, plan, examine, take apart, etc before I tackle this mod. I plan to remove the current leather on it, add heating pads, then re-cover with aftermarket leather wrap cover. Then swap it in for my current wheel which is still attached to the vehicle. OR, do the mod directly to my current steering wheel attached. Hope that makes sense!

 

The heated portion isn't that small. It goes from the joints at around 10:30 and 1:30 down to where the vertical spokes reach the wheel, about 7:30 and 4:30. 3 and 9 are actually less warm than above or below those points.

 

Gotcha, that makes sense. I will be following this thread as I want a heated wheel in my 4runner - miss this feature from my previous car.

 

I removed the leather upholstery in preparation for the heating pads. Here's what your steering wheel looks like without it's skin.

 

Just ordered the heating pads from Amazon Canada. Cost me just under $20!

Here is what I ordered;

https://www.amazon.ca/Heated-Steeri...ix=heated+steering+wheel+ki,aps,154&sr=8-5&t=

 

So there are 2 connectors that come out the bottom of the clockspring. 1 is yellow and the other is black. Yellow is for ABS and the other is for steering wheel controls. I plan to disconnect the airbag and test the pins on the connectors for continuity this weekend with a multimeter. Will report back with what I find.

 

So today I had time to remove the airbag so I can test the pins/wires of the empty slots with a multimeter. The empty slot as pictured here where the red wire is inserted, corresponds to this pin on the bottom black connector under the clockspring (top row 2nd from the right). Good news is the black connector on the other side also has the empty slot!

Since I have an extra harness for the cruise control, I depinned and removed the wires as shown in the 3rd pic. I will use these to insert into the empy slots on both connectors. One will lead to the heating pad from inside th steering wheel and the other on the clockspring side will go to the fusebox.

Q: Which circuit should I use in the fusebox? Suggestions welcome!

 

Trade for Lexus

 

Heating pad came in today! Did a test fit and realized that I need to do some trimming to prevent bunching of the material.

 

Here's what it looked like after trimming of some material.

 

How I ran the wires;

 

My original plan was to ground to a bolt inside the steering wheel to prevent having to run another wire through the clockspring. But after testing the bolts for a good ground, none was giving me continuity. So I had to find another blank slot in the connector and the corresponding pin on the other side. the very top right pin in the steering wheel corresponds to the very top left pin on the backside as per the pic.

 

Now I'm only waiting for the leather wrap to finish!

 

Cut out a groove so there is no bump under the wrap. Wire sits in there perfectly flush with the steering wheel.

 

Bought some high temp cloth tape to hold down the heating pad. I don't think it's necessary but I thought it would be better and safer than just regular tape.

And here it is all wrapped up nice and tight. Still waiting for the aftermarket wrap...

 

Just another angle of how I ran the wires. They are tucked in the normal grooves and a couple grooves I had to carve out. I wanted a flush finish so there would be no bumps under the wrap.

 

Bought this switch which is from a BMW but for some reason it does not seem to work. Power goes through but not enough. It doesn't seem to heat up the pads. On top of that it is momentary. I thought it was a maintained switch. Too bad as it would've looked somewhat OEM.

 

So I ended up using the switch it came with. Worked in the location I wanted but not quite the look I was hoping for. Did a mock wiring setup with an extra battery and everything worked. I put the switch to the side of the steering wheel as shown. It is in perfect reach of my fingers. I don't even need to take my hand off the steering wheel to turn it on and off.

 

Wow. Your work is impressive. I’m too lazy.

 

Got my switch wired and taped up to take up minimal space.

 

The wrap finally showed up and had some time this weekend to put it on. It is not perfect but overall I am pretty happy with how it turned out. Here is also a shot of the stitching and another shot of the switch and how easy accessible it is for my fingers.

 

Did you stitch that back together? Also, where did you get the new leather wrap from?

Not sure if you read the post from the guy that made the heated pad harness but within his FAQ he advises on using the stock clock spring for a heated wheel retrofit since it wasn’t made for it..

 

that wrap alone is pretty badass i would like a more abrasive feel to the steering wheel...