Hard steering on my 2000 SR5

I just had the rack bushings, upper and lower ball joints and sway bar links replaced. The steering was really hard when I picked it up. Could that be caused by them loosening the rack when they put the bushings in? The pump does not make any noise and there are no leaks anywhere and power steering resevoir is full.

I stopped by another shop and they suggested new fluid and check pressure switch in the steering pump. The fluid I am sure is original (2000 with 167,000 on it). He says the switch does fail and the fluid change is the cheapest way to start. The next could be a weak pump.

Now it was always a little stiff but after the parts changes it seemed more stiffer.

Any thoughts?

 

Huh. So I looked it up and there is such a thing (89438-33010). It has an electrical connection. What does it do, how does it work? I thought the system was just the pump and hoses and the rack...fairly old school.

 

Yeah, I hope that is all it is and flush. I just drove it, still stiff steering, will not spin back after a turn, steering acts like manual steering. Still no whine or noise either.

 

Is the belt hooked up? Is the belt spinning?

 

The belt is on and tight.

 

Is the pump turning?

 

The pulley is turning. The one thing I did not do is take the cap off while the engine was running and have someone turn the wheel.

 

The reservoir is full. I wonder if the reservior is glogged? It does have a screen at the bottom that I heard can get clogged with trash.

 

My guess is either the pump is not working at all or something's not right with the ball joint installation.

Did you use TOYOTA ball joints?

Is this a 4x4?

 

It is a 2 wheel drive and no they were not toyota ball joints but the steering wheel is center and tracks straight.

 

Isn’t there an adjustment for steering ease. Like that big nut on the front of the rack you remove that then loosen the pressure on the system?

 

I don't know. As far as the ball joints everything went back together correctly or looked correct (my mechanic is pretty good) and it looked like it was pretty straight forward installation, I watched a little bit of it.

 

Pretty sure that's not an adjustment. That's to get the rack apart to rebuild.

I replaced the entire rack and suspension in my rig, ball joints, bushings, end links too. It's all made to bolt back together and work correctly as long as it's torqued to spec.

The fact that he just had his ball joints changed and the car is now messed up, makes me think maybe he got shit ball joints.

The fact he's not hearing whining, makes me think it's not a bound up rack...or I would expect the pump to complain.

If he's hearing ZERO whining while sitting stopped in the driveway turning his wheels, makes me think the pump shit the bed. I know I can start my car, crank my wheel and I will hear some pump noise. Even if a clog, the pump is going to try and pump.

 

Interesting. I hope the pump just went bad, it seems a whole lot cheaper than a rack. It was tight before, but the lower and upper ball joints were bad as well as sway bar links. Basically all original even front struts, which were also changed. I am sure they will bleed the rack to and see what if any fluid is in there. Do you know exactly how you would check to see if the pump is working?

 

Could be:
Lack of lubricant in power steering reservoir
Incorrect tire pressure
Lack of lubricant at ball joints
Front end out of alignment
Steering gear out of adjustment
Wheel bearings
Worn steering gear
Interference of steering column with turn signal switch

 

Lack of lubricant in power steering reservoir <- Won't Pump complain?
Lack of lubricant at ball joints <- I can agree with this. On the TOYOTA joints you didn't just slap them in, you needed to add the included lube.
Steering gear out of adjustment <- OK, I looked it up and the steering guide can be adjusted on the rack. Something to check.
Worn steering gear <- I can agree with this...but usually it just gets sloppy. Usually the pump will complain.

But these?

Incorrect tire pressure <- wut? how?
Wheel bearings <- wut? how? They don't participate in steering.
Front end out of alignment <- How is that going to make steering hard\stiff? Maybe make it steer wierd is all.
Interference of steering column with turn signal switch <- That would be obviously not in the rack.

 

I went out to the detached garage and grabbed my Haynes it’s from the troubleshooting section.

 

@Pander is it consistently difficult to turn? Or, intermittent? On my 4th gen, the U-joint in the steering column seized.

 

There is a rag joint, not a u-joint on the 3rd gen. It doesn't flex much, but I could see if they dropped the rack down, and they didn't put it back correctly, it could bind there.

 

It is stiff all time and will not return to "zero" on a turn, you have to move it back. Where is the "rag joint" on the rack? They just moved the rack to put the bushings in, they did not remove it.

 

The rag joint is where the steering shaft ends and the steering input shaft on the rack starts.

You should be able to hear the pump work when parked in the driveway and turning the wheel back and forth with the engine on. If it is completely silent, pump is no good.

Honestly, just take it back to the shop, tell them to look at it. It's not right. If it's a reputable shop, they should find it quickly. If not, never go back there, they are not competent.

If you want to dig into it yourself, pull the skid plate off and wheels and take pictures of the rag joint and the ball joint areas, rack, etc.. Maybe we will notice something.

 

Lol. Haynes. I forgive you.

 

People pick on Haynes manuals. Yet, I've done multiple motor swaps with nothing but a Haynes manual. Not to mention clutches, brakes, timing belts, etc.

I'm sure the FSM is probably better. But, the Haynes manuals have been pretty good for me in the past.

 

The example here illustrates the typical problem with Haynes. It sends you in wrong directions and wastes your time.

I also have used Haynes and Chilton years ago as well. Once the internet happened and I was able to pick up Factory Service Manuals...there's just no comparison, the FSM is so much better.

My favorite Haynes\Chilton directive: "Just reverse the procedure to re-install". Lol. That never works.

 

I have heard that the FSM's are better.

I had pretty good luck with Haynes, but I've always been a mechanical type. I haven't really used them to troubleshoot a lot, though, aside from tracking down and diagnosing a bad ignitor on an '87 MR2.

 

Update;
All was good, fluid was clean and was flowing good. What the mecahnic said was with all the new parts it was a like a new front end and was stiff. Drive it and it should get better, which it is. Thanks for all responses.

 

ok. Check your power steering level again though.

Glad it's working out.