Gen 5 Lift question and UCA help

I was wondering if I can pick your brain on a lift kit.

I have a 2015 SR5 and I have researched so much that I don’t know what to get. I will do 80 percent on road, I have 2 trips (big bend, Santa Fe) this year. I want 2.5-3 inches

I have Toyo 285 at tires on the way.
Front will have a grill and winch (need)
RTT for trips only (have)
Awning for trips only (have)
Skid plates front. (Need)

I was looking at Dobinsons, ARB OME, Icon stage 2.

If money wasn't an option I would just do the Icon and be done with it.

Does anyone have these kits, they smooth, rough, you recommend it.

Has anyone done these with out the UCA?

 

At 2.5”-3” you’ll 100% want UCA’s, especially if you’ll be doing trails.

 

I ran a 2.5" lift for 4 years without UCA's, sold 4Runner to friend and immediately we did the UCAs. It wasn't completely required but it varies vehicle to vehicle. However, I'd highly recommend them as the increased caster improved the steering feel afterwards.

285's expect to do a cab mount chop. Might not need based on offset of wheels, but might.

Skip ARB OMEs, i'm kinda bleh on them. I'd go Dobinsons or Ironman because you'll get a quality lift for sub $2000 with UCAs.

 

Check out the Fox Stage 1 or Stage 2 kit, Eibach Lift Kit, or Icon like you stated. Can’t go wrong with any of these. Definitely recommend getting the UCA’s. If you want low maintenance go with the SPCs. I run the Total Chaos and absolutely love them.

 

Your right about wanting the control arms but it’s not because of trails. The aftermarket upper control arms are to add caster which adds stability at speed. He’s talking about raising the center of gravity with a lift, and then even more so with the extra weight of a roof top tent and awning - he’s going to want more caster than stock to make it feel stable and planted on the highway.

An argument can be made for the offroad aspect in the sense you need high articulation upper control arms if you want to run extended travel suspension (not to be confused with long travel) and the extra caster does push the wheel forward in the wheel well so you will have a little bit more tire clearance, but then again it would be more nimble and maneuverable offroad on trails with less caster. Either way highway stability is by far the biggest thing to gain.

 

If I were in your shoes I'd buy the Eibach Pro Truck Lift Kit which has 4 springs, 2 struts, and 2 shocks. With your winch, tent, etc. the lift will probably be about 2.5F/1.25R. Should be plenty for what you need. I would add UCA's for better stability/performance, but you could maybe get away without them if you're really on a budget. Anything higher than this kit though and I would urge UCA's as being "required/necessary."

My next option, if you want more lift, would be to look into the Dobinsons range of springs and build a kit from them that also includes 4 new springs, 2 struts and 2 shocks. UCA's for sure.

Beyond that, if you want to spend a little more.. check out Bilstein 6112 front setup, which is height adjustable. Pair that with new shocks and Bilstein springs (pick your height.. 1", 1.5", 2") in the rear and you're good to go.

 

I wish this was an automatic-macro post that would pop up every time someone writes "I lifted 2.5"+ and didn't need UCA's." Guys think that the OE alignment specs are the holy grail, which is understandable, but incorrect. The truck is no longer OE.

 

I lifted 2.5" and didn't need UCAs.

Holy grail, no; but it rides fine, doesn't pull one way or the other, visually looks "correct" with wheels centered in the opening and at the correct relationship to other front end components and the ground, and even tire wear. Numbers mean shit to me if it works as it should.

 

@MeefZah please share your Shock or Spring Model Number , pics if possible , and your 4runner specifications , this will help me and others to understand

 

I have 2 5th gens. Both have:

Wheeler T13 rear coils (Eibach mfg)
Wheeler T1 front coils (Eibach)
Bilstein 5100 rear shocks
Bilstein 5100 front struts set to '0'
Small (1/4") spacers / trim packers drivers side to offset lean
Firestone Destination AT2 285/70 17
OEM Trail wheels

Copious pics are in my albums, linked in signature (possibly not viewable on mobile device). The 17 SR5 has an dedicated build folder and the 19 ORP build is lumped into a folder with other vehicles titled "Vehicle Modifications". A 14 TE I used to own that had TC UCAs has a folder in there, too. All those pics are static. Action / trip pics of same trucks are found in other folders titled accordingly.

 

@MeefZah Thanks for detail .

 

I feel you brother.

All I'm really saying is that the truck *should* drive better with them ...According to the experts... lol
When people read that no one *needed* something, they assume it won't help. However, here, it probably does/might?
So nah, they aren't needed, but they will supposedly improve the experience.

TBH, I'm learning these details as I write this. I'm trying to figure out if aftermarket UCA's can add anything to the 2" lift experience. My larger tires at stock height definitely made the truck harder to drive (heavier steering and more wander on the road). I wonder if added caster could help with that.

Also, don't aftermarket UCA's also improve travel (extension/droop) when used with a lift?

 

If i may ask..anybody runnin 33" tires with JBA UCA's ?....JBA states that anything over roughly 32.25 will/may rub....
I found 275/55-20 tires i want...but there are all but 33.00"....Thanx

 

At 32"+, you'll probably rub somewhere. Usually it's the front of the fender well on the liner, and/or the edge of the front mud-flap which is at the rear of the front wheel-well, as well as the very edge of the bumper underneath the vehicle (where you cannot see it). These issues are easily fixed though with a dremel tool and heat-gun (or removal of front mud-flaps).

At 33" there is simply just a good chance you'll need a BMC, on top of the previously mentioned remedies. I'd say it's probable. If you don't mind a BMC, it's NBD. I'd hope that anyone running a 33" tire is running aftermarket UCA's, but I don't think that any UCA can give enough caster to *assure* no BMC with a 33" tire. Hope that all makes sense...

EDIT: This is with the non-Limited 4Runners. It could be different for a Limited. If anything, I'd bet a Limited would rub more. There is currently one guy that is working on large tires for his Limited.. go check out his thread!

 

Shoulda clarified better...JBA claims there may rubbing on there UCA....but im glad u mentioned about the BMC....
The tire i want is 275/55-20....its funny how the total measurements vary from one brand to another....

 

I run JBA arms with 33.3” tires just fine. Your width and offset will play more of a roll than overall diameter

 

What tires do you have on your limited?

 

255/80/17 Ridge Grapplers

 

Thanx

 

We didn't need UCA's with 3" and 275-70-17's, no rub. That was with ORP wheels, we ordered JBA UCA's to try and make the best of caster(on road manners) With 0 offset 8" XD wheels, 4.5" backspace it still did not rub, I did the front inner fender mods any way, anticipating future tire upgrades(33's). I can notice a difference on-road, off-road the UCA's are supposed to give better down wheel travel, keeping your tires planted better. On our "elk" watching ride didn't really notice a big difference....... yet... but time will tell when there is more challenging terrain. We ended up with 4 degrees caster, which is supposed to be the sweet spot for lifted trucks. BTW the UCA's are JBA's.

 

For 80+% on-road usage, you're going to need to be careful with what shocks you choose. Many of those at the higher end of the cost range will give you a real crappy ride on pavement, particularly at slower speeds. Bilstein 6112 seem to be a good choice, or ToyTec's Ultimate series. Do yourself a favor and avoid making a bad choice; call Hugo at ToyTec Lifts and tell him exactly what you'll be using your 4R for, what weight you're planning to add, etc. He can tell you what you need and what weight springs you'll need.

Invest in a pair of SPC upper control arms. They offer a great range of adjustment, both caster and camber. Have you ever adjusted the cam bolts on your lower control arms? If not they may be froze up. The added adjustability at the upper ball joint may be able to compensate for this, for the time being. The stock setting for caster is 3 degrees, try to get closer to 4 for a nicer feel at higher speeds.

285/70/17 tires will fit without doing a body mount chop. As long as all your alignment adjustment points are usable and can be pushed forward a little, just enough to clear the rear of the front fenderwell. They will rub the front of the fenderwell at full turn, especially in reverse or going up an incline. Fix this by egg-shaping the bottom fender mounting bolt holes and push the fenderliner forward. Trim away the fender lip that's still in the way.