Fuse Questions '23 ORP

So I need some help! I installed raptor lights on my 23 ORP. I wired the ground directly to the negative battery terminal and the add a fuse to the IGN fuse under the steering wheel. I tried several fuses under the hood but every fuse I tried was direct power so that's why I went under the steering wheel. Well now I have all kinds of warning lights on my dash. Stopped by the dealer real quick otw to work and they ran the codes and I have P0504 and B1660 codes. Hooked it up to a scanner I got and when I cleared the B1660 code it threw it again. What could I have messed up? The service manager at the dealer pretty much yelled at me about how it would take them several days to, "find out what all I broke." Is there a fuse I could have accidently blown that would throw these codes? Do I need to just suck it up and go back to the dealer and pay to have it fixed? Any advice would be great!

 

There are a few on this forum who have successfully added raptor lights without incident, but the vast majority have had similar results like you.

I’m confident someone will post a corrective action for you.

Disclaimer, I am pretty biased against aftermarket mods to a modern vehicle, especially electrical mods. As you discovered, modern vehicles are very intolerant of electrical modifications if they are improperly executed. If I was in your shoes, I would remove the raptor light system and put it back to stock until you can get some input from some of the experienced forum members that have been successful.

From reading other posters stories, my guess is that the dealership won’t touch your car until you’ve removed the aftermarket lighting.

This is just my opinion based on reading other raptor light posts.

Best wishes and good luck.

 

Yes I did not expect it to be so difficult! Makes me miss the days of less technology. I had a '99 Ford Ranger in highschool that I did a ton of things to with no issues which is probably why I thought this would be a piece of cake and boy was I wrong.

 

This thread has a picture of the under dash fuse I used with an add a fuse to get switched power.

https://www.4runners.com/threads/raptor-lights-trouble-shooting.30333/

Edit: I pulled switched power which then powered a relay which in turn powered switches to control more relays fir everything including the raptor lights.

Using relays allowed power to come from the battery and not the fuse panel.

Lot of people have used an ad a fuse and no relay just fine

 

Those codes look like passenger airbag and break switch. I'm very curious to know exactly how you found which fuse to tap. We're guessing and checking with the add a fuse?

 

Yes and no..I planned to run it to the box under the steering wheel on the first IGN fuse from the start but my husband came home while I was working on it and decided to help me by insisting that I keep it all under the hood. He tried several fuses that were all direct power before I told him to mow the grass and leave me alone as cars are not his thing. Clearly they aren't mine either! I am not sure exactly what all fuses he pulled. And yes those are the codes.

 

Those codes should point to the fuses that were disrupted.

 

Can’t help you on trouble-shooting your codes, but this is how I wired my raptor lights:

On the cabin fuse block, I tapped the TAIL fuse to send power to a relay that in turn sends power from the battery to the raptor lights. This way, the raptor lights come on when the main or running lights are on—they can still be shut off when the main light switch on the stalk is set to the OFF position. To control your raptor lights separately, just wire a switch between the TAIL power and the relay.

Always use a relay.

 

If you havent done this already, make sure all fuses are snug. The pull the battery negative to cut power to every thing to reset the codes.

From what you explained, no codes should come back.

Don't take it to a dealer first thing. Nothing you did should have broken anything and I would be very suspicious of the dealer perhaps just making up shit to charge you.

 

You should get a volt meter and watch this video if you're going to be working on a car

https://youtu.be/w44aQ7dc_Lk

Test fuses without taking them out. You can see which ones are on constant and which ones turn on only with ignition on so you know which to tap into.

And as we have said, should use a relay.

Sound like you might want to take what your partner says with a grain of salt.

 

I was going to help you but decided against it when I read "raptor lights". I bet removing them may help, though.

 

Dude's jealous he can't afford raptor lights. No need to be a jelly monster.

OP if you're in the Bay Area and you and your husband want to come over I can show or how or do it for you and put it on a relay. Can put them on a switch as well. I have everything but the add a fuse and switch.

You could have a factory style push button switch to the left of the steering wheel.

 

This morning when I got off work I removed the add a fuse from the IGN spot and got rid of my error codes. I tried it in the tail fuse next and got power to the raptor lights but no power to my tail lights. If I can find somewhere that is open in the morning I will pick up a relay and try again. Thanks for your help!

 

Trust me, the dealer is my very last resort!

 

You are using a fuse tap, correct? It should look like this:


The TAIL fuse is 10 amps and you won’t need more than that to run your relay, so a pair of 10 amp fuses in the slots should allow your tail lights and your relay to be powered.

 

Is there fuses in both slots of the add a fuse? You got pics?

 

Maybe this will help.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mZ4Y6zKhoN0

 

You don’t need a relay for such low powered lights unless you’re using a janky switch that can’t handle any power draw.

 

So just something similar I had but with my acura MDX. Tapped into the rear fuse panel to add some lights. Kept getting CEL lights and they were hard codes - would not reset. After hours and hours of research at the acura dealership they discovered the wire running from the rear fuse panel to the front panel had shorted out.

 

Yep, That's how my grill lights are installed. Switch is taking power from a wire tap behind the 12v cigarette lighter to trigger the relay and grill lights get power from the 12V battery.


Switch I use for grill lights