Engine Skids

I have a question for you members that have installed after-market engine skids on your 4R. I see that there are some skids that have access holes for oil change draining and some that have plates (all seem to have plates for the filter change). My question is, which do you prefer? and which are easiest for oil changes. My gut tells me that the access plate is the easier; it allows more room to access the drain plug and less chance for oil to slurp all over the skid plate. The access hole, on the other hand, does not have screws that could come undone and be lost in overland travel. So that is my quandary. Also, if there are any professional mechanics out there, which do you prefer?
Thanks in advance.
Dave

 

TBH, I have access plates but it wasn’t the primary attribute for me. I think your better built skids will all have plates.

I wanted skids that allowed air flow to help with cooling.

 

Thanks Nova, which ones did you go with?

 

I went with RCI. Seems they have the best setup although others are very similar.

 

I have the same RCI skid plates. Dealership always removes the front skid plate when changing the oil and filter. No different than the TRD skid plate. It is only 4 bolts to remove.

 

Agree on RCI. That’s what I have and oil changes are very easy.

 

I went with ARB, but its like kitchen foil next to Victory and RCI.

I say get the skids that protect your underbelly best. Better to spend an extra 5 min removing the whole skid than a busted underside.

 

I went with C4

super well engineered, but it comes raw steel.

luckily there are a lot of good options for just about any budget.

Cheers
Mike

 

C4 full skids here, protection + oil changes are the reasons why I changed the stock skids. I can still lube up all the points on the shaft with the skids on too.

 

I took the stock skid plate, drilled out spot welds on the what looks like where an access panel should go from the factory, then i made a very nice clean access plate and used speed nuts to fasten it to original skid plate.

 

Really, are there access holes for the drivshaft?

 

You just lube it up from the side. It’s tight but not too tight for you to reach to the zerk fittings.

 

I have the RCI, and I do all my own oil changes. Very easy with the RCI.

Two bolts hold the access plate for the oil filter, I unloosen one, remove the other, and just pivot the plate out of the way. There is a hole to access the drain plug. Yes, some oil may run down the inside of the skid, but I just look at that as keeping it from rusting haha. One way to avoid that would be to install a fumitomo valve with a hose for draining the oil.

 

This is exactly what I did with My RCI skids. Fumoto valve for the oil pan drain and drain valve and tube for the filter canister. I don't spill a drop.

 

Another one with RCI.

A Fumoto or similar oil drain valve will eliminate the need for a rear access plate for the oil pan drain.

 

Got any photos of this engineering marvel?

 

I ordered an RCI skid plate for mine. It'll be here tomorrow.

 

They are all pretty much the same. Hard to go wrong really. Tons of good shit out there.

I went Victory (same as my roof rack, and sliders. I also mig welded nuts on the back of mine, just for more piece of mind. (See weld burns bottom, and more length on top) Just didn't trust "threads" in a 3/16's steel panel, or 1/4" alum, that leave 5 threads,..... and/or those that use a loose nut on the back, That are a mother to get to.

Now i have more,durable threads, that live there. I hella dig it.

 

Thanks everybody, I appreciate the working knowledge of this forum. Sounds like its not much of an issue.

 

One more with RCI skids paired with a Fumoto drain. No need to remove the skid to change oil and can change with all 4 tires on the garage floor (no Ramps needed)….

Cheers,
Bob

 

if using the fumoto valve, make sure to check clearance between it and the skidplate. I saw a picture floating around that showed almost zero space between the two, dint remember which skidplate it was.

Skid plates will flex on hit, and it could be close enough to hit the valve and damage the oil pan.

 

I checked the clearance between my RCI skid and the bottom of the Fumoto valve and have right at 1” from the bottom of the nipple to the skid. The valve is also centered over the hole in the skid placed there to drain the oil.

It’s about 2” from the skid to the bottom of the oil pan.

What do you think about those clearances? Concern or OK?

Cheers,
Bob

 

Mine has sufficient clearance I believe. There are two different versions of the valve (well, and two generations with the newer having a higher flow rate) with short and long nipple. I went with the short nipple with more recess for exactly the concern you point out.

 

RCI skid in aluminum and fumoto drain, as well

 

My RCI skid just came today. It's steel though. About to order a Fumoto drain valve, and maybe a Baxter oil filter adapter for it next.

 

I've been using RCI as well, with fumoto short and there's about an inch of clearance between it and the plate. Oil changes are easy with fumoto and that hatch.

 

many thanks to all that replied. I have gone with the RCI in powder-coated steel. Arrived yesterday.

 

CBI skids on ours.

 

I just had RSG install a steel, black powder coated front skid on mine, Haven't done an oil change yet but it has an access panel like the RCI.

 

With a valve installed on the drain plug hole, it doesn't matter. I'd prefer just a small hole actually. All I have to do is snap on my plastic fitting and tube and drain. No mess.

On a side note, I'm about to figure out how to mate an RSG front skid with an RCI tranny. I'll likely cut the RCI plate back some on the front edge and drill holes that line up through them both and use carriage bolts and a lock washer.