Drain on battery

I bought this used Toyota 4runner a couple of months ago, it had 216,000 miles on it, and when I first got it, everything worked just fine, however, a couple of weeks ago I went outside to start my car but the battery was dead so I jumped my car, and then later when I got home I charged the battery and put a multimeter on it and noticed there was about a 12 amp draw on it. I then started unplugging all of these fuses one by one, until i found that the draw was coming from the dome fuse. after that, I figured I try and find what it was, so I took apart the whole dash, and unplugged everything (Stereo, amplifier, ignition light, clock,ac, glove box compartment light), but I was unsuccessful. I also noticed around the time my car died the Radio stopped working. I was just wondering If anyone would know of or think of any possible solutions for this.

 

I would check the Dome light Door switches I have seen in the past corrosion at them leading to cause a drain to ground.

 

12 AMPS IS A LOT OF DRAW!!! Definitely seen door switches cause all sorts of weird issues. Also, bad/ corroded grounds for accessories as well. Check where the dome light/ map light wires go into the assembly for rust/ corrosion and their attaching points.

 

You're on the right track. Pull the bulbs, etc from that circuit. But you need to know what is on that circuit...so get the factory wiring diagram.

The wiring diagram comes with the factory service manual. I was able to download mine somewhere and I buy them for a $5-10 download on ebay when they are available.

12A draw seems like a definite short.

For 2002, I see the following on this DOME circuit: Body ECU. Door lamps. Back Door ECU. Hatch switch. Interior Light rear and front. Ignition cylinder light. Personal light and Moonroof Control. Vanity light.

Hatch wiring harness is prone to break over time with the flexing.

 

Always look for aftermarket stuff. Those always go bad and cause shorts and fires.

 

I was able to fix the problem, I checked the dome light door switch, and it was very corroded. I bought a new one off of Amazon for about $5 and replaced it. I checked the draw with a multimeter again and it was at about 95 milliamps, which I think is still a little high, but still a big improvement. Thank you guys for all the help!