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Do I need Sway bar End Links?

Discussion in '5th Gen 4Runners (2010-2024)' started by SLIVER, Dec 6, 2023.

  1. Dec 6, 2023 at 5:41 AM
    #1
    SLIVER

    SLIVER [OP] New Member

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    Hey guys, I am gathering all my suspension parts and am shooting for the install and BMC during Christmas break. Here is what I have so far.

    Front: Fox 2.5" kit, JBA UCA's,

    Rear: ToyTec 2-3" springs (not sure exactly what model they are, they were on the rig when I bought it). Yotamafia extended brake lines, Dobinsons long travel IMS shocks.

    I am wondering if I need extended sway bar end links? I have some OCD forged links in the cart, but if the stock ones will work fine, I'll sink that money elsewhere.

    I should add that this rig will see some mild off roading, but nothing crazy. Forest roads, camping, hunting etc....

    Thanks guys!
    ))--SLIVER-->
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2023
  2. Dec 6, 2023 at 6:08 AM
    #2
    qcTRDct

    qcTRDct New Member

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    Speaking from my experience on my old FJ, you'll benefit from them, but probably can get away with using stockers for now.
     
  3. Dec 6, 2023 at 6:25 AM
    #3
    3JOH22A

    3JOH22A Toyota Gigolo

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    Front links cannot be longer, else the sway bar will hit the steering tie rod at some point in the suspension travel range.

    Rear may benefit from longer links to correct the sway bar geometry, since you're running a 3" lift, and the shocks can droop a lot more than stock.
     
  4. Dec 6, 2023 at 9:33 AM
    #4
    hossler1788

    hossler1788 Turtle

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    Just remove the rear sway bar. :)

    Your adding stiffer springs and shocks.
     
  5. Dec 6, 2023 at 10:29 AM
    #5
    McSpazatron

    McSpazatron New Member

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    Dobinson IMS Warn Bumper CaliRaised Sliders 285/70 K02s
    I’ve heard the argument that the factory OE front sway bar links are way more durable than anything aftermarket. It’s not about brute strength of the link, but about corrosion potential, and the fact that aftermarket links tend to be multi-piece shafts that can come apart for various reasons. The problem with this is that when a front link breaks on a 4runner, the end of the sway (and the link itself I suppose) will contact the cv joint, You can imagine the destruction that would follow once the swaybar chews through the boot and comes into contact with a turning CV joint. I’ve seen pictures out there, and it aint pretty! This risk by itself is a good reason to stay moderate in the amount of front lift.
     
  6. Dec 6, 2023 at 10:49 AM
    #6
    SLIVER

    SLIVER [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for the replies guys. I most definitely want this to be reliable and not deal with any problems. I may leave the front stock, and grab the longer one for out back.
    Any other brand besides OCD I should be looking at?

    ))--SLIVER-->
     
  7. Dec 6, 2023 at 1:23 PM
    #7
    RkyMtnMan

    RkyMtnMan New Member

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    I'm curious how you decided on parts from so many different manufacturers...
     
  8. Dec 6, 2023 at 3:17 PM
    #8
    SLIVER

    SLIVER [OP] New Member

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    Mainly suggestions from this forum and Youtube. I was torn on which front coils to go with, but ended up getting a great price on Black Friday for the fox 2.5's, so I went that route. You can call my rig the frankenyota......
    I'll post up some pics when I get going on the install. Waiting on a few more parts to show up.

    ))--SLIVER-->
     
  9. Dec 6, 2023 at 4:06 PM
    #9
    Trail Runnah

    Trail Runnah New Member

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    I recently watched a video where they did a few different sway bar links on a lifted 4Runner on an RTI ramp. Travel was the same with extended sway bar links as it was with the original sway bar links. They had bought fancy adjustable sway bar links, and they concluded that $40 Moog links that were about 1" longer than the stockers were the way to go.

    https://youtu.be/ndSog1pi1o8?si=Eu8gOSKdZVQj-oCF
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2023
    djwantke likes this.
  10. Dec 6, 2023 at 9:16 PM
    #10
    nova

    nova New Member

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    4.88, Air lockers, 35 Toyo MTs, C4 body armor, +2 LT, etc
    I have stock links with Total Chaos +2” LT and the TC swaybar. No issues there. In the rear I have a pan hard relocation kit, again with stock links.

    Honestly, you ought to be fine either way.

    Cheers
     
  11. Dec 7, 2023 at 2:20 AM
    #11
    WanderlostOverland

    WanderlostOverland New Member

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    The stock links in the front will do fine for what you'll be using your rig for. Longer links in the rear will get the swaybar back to its original geometry, a good thing. If you do go with new links be sure to get ones with a closed OEM style of joint. We tried the open hiem joint style and they didn't last long at all.
    Look into getting a panhard correction bracket. It makes a world of difference in handling!

    https://youtu.be/WJGEb_MPzSo
     
  12. Dec 7, 2023 at 5:19 AM
    #12
    SLIVER

    SLIVER [OP] New Member

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    Thank you guys for the above video's and posts. Glad I didn't spend a bunch of $$ on the extended ones from OCD when they aren't needed for my type of wheeling.
    I'll do that panhard relocation for sure though!
    I found a bolt on option through Dr KDSS. I'm not afraid to weld one on as I am proficient at welding, but the bolt on looks tough, simple and has color powder coat options. I'll probably go that route.

    ))--SLIVER-->
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2023
    McSpazatron likes this.
  13. Dec 7, 2023 at 2:06 PM
    #13
    coryanderson

    coryanderson New Member

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    I just installed my Dr KDSS last weekend. Super quick install and drives a lot better. I have the Moog extended links and shocks to install in the next week.
     
    djwantke likes this.
  14. Dec 7, 2023 at 2:26 PM
    #14
    RkyMtnMan

    RkyMtnMan New Member

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    I love the Frankenyota! I hope the parts come quickly and install is a breeze!
     
  15. Dec 15, 2023 at 8:16 AM
    #15
    slixx1320

    slixx1320 New Member

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    Can you elaborate more on this? What exactly happened? Thx!!
     
  16. Dec 15, 2023 at 10:17 PM
    #16
    KYFHO

    KYFHO Generic Scumbag

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    This. I ran my lift with the stock rear links and no panhard correction for 6 months. The ride was…. not ideal, especially when I broke a couple of ribs which made my commute to work real nice. I installed the Dr KDSS BOTCK and extended Moog links and the improvements in ride quality were huge.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2023
  17. Dec 16, 2023 at 4:55 AM
    #17
    WanderlostOverland

    WanderlostOverland New Member

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    Two things happened; The open joints didn't hold up to road salt or the dirt and debris. They quickly pitted and became loose. Second, the teflon or nylon insert that the ball rides on didn't like the constant motion. It became hot, swelled, then squeaked like crazy.
     
    slixx1320[QUOTED] likes this.
  18. Dec 16, 2023 at 5:40 AM
    #18
    Agent_Outside

    Agent_Outside A Guy A Girl and A Trail

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    Stock lasted me 10 years until I switched to Overland Custom Designs forged links (they were still fine, thought I was being proactive in “upgrading” before they went bad). The passenger side OCD link snapped in have not even a year in to having them which sent the sway bar into the outer cv joint and ripped the boot off. Trash product, no response from the company until almost a year later when I publicly said something negative about them and their response the was they have never had a forged link fail, mine broke at the joint not the forged link but they would send me a replacement joint… by that time their products had long since gone out with the trash.

    I run no front sway bar now.
     
    runnerjimmy likes this.

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