CV axle pitch

Is this pitch okay? I just hot this truck maybe a month ago and one cv was busted o asked the p/o one one was busted he said he did the 2in lift and didn't do the diff drop and then did the diff drop but only replaced one cv so I just replaced the driver side and I don't know if the pitch is okay or if it's going to just eat it again l

 

I think you got more than a 2" lift.

Mine

I got 3" on one side and 2 1/4" on the other to get rid of the lean. Might of settled a little since then but I took this pic the day I brought it back from getting the lift installed.


Try measure your hub to fender.

 

From the middle of the hub to the fender is about 24ins the other side is just over 24 lol.

 

Yeah that ain't no 2 inch lift.

I'm at 22" at the front. Was 19" and 19 3/4" before.

What suspension set up do you have. Try snap a pic from the side. I don't have a diff drop either.

 

I have absolutely no idea my fiance says it has metal blocks above the ball joints? Lol.

 

Well shit I didn't realize you had a 95 also.

I just assumed it was a 5th gen without looking. I don't know what the starting height would be for yours.

Hydro7000 comes up as a Skyjacker but its listed under their steering stabilizers and not their lift kits so thats about far as I know. Hopefully someone else with you gen can help.

 

Well shit lol. Thank you anyways... I mean it runs good doesnt shake like crazy or anything lol

 

I have a 2 inch lift and adjusted the front to be level with the rear and I have about 21 1/2 inches from the center of the hub to the fender. You have ball joint spacers and the torsion bars must be cranked way up to get that much lift.

If you have manual locking hubs, the shafts only turn when the hubs are engaged. If you have ADD, the shafts always turn and with that angle you will have accelerated wear. How quickly will the shafts wear, I have no idea!

 

As you have ball joint spacers between the upper ball joint and the upper A-arm this pushes the body and frame upward by the thickness of the spacer which is approximately 1.50" thick if you do nothing with the torsion bar preload. At full droop the tie rod end ball joints will bind and the CV axles will not be happy. I would recommend you relax the Torsion bars so that with a 31X10.5-R15 tire on the OEM wheels the distance from the ground to the frame cross member is about 11.00" to 11.50". If you are higher up than this the torsion bars are going to yield when you bottom out the suspension. Ideally the torsion bar preload should put the ride height at the middle of the wheel travel range from top-out to bottom-out. This will provide the highest level of safe suspension performance. Also take a look at the cuts made to the inside of the upper A-arm that were made to fit the spacer. If this is left as is the A-arm will start stress cracking if it is not reinforced with a piece of steel that is welded back into the arm to replace the metal that was removed.

From the pictures I would be inclined to replace the SHCS as they likely to be fully threaded machine screws. Replace them with washer faced 10.9 grade hex bolts that have a shoulder without threads so that the shear between the ball-joint forging, aluminum spacer and the suspensions A-arm is directed through a non threaded portion of the bolt. There is a very good reason why the OEM fastener is pressed into the forging as a stud and nutted to the A-arms hole pattern.

I hope your fiance owns a torque wrench as this assembly entire needs to be properly tightened when it is assembled with a criss-cross pattern like a head is set on a block. Also the bushing on the shock is not tightened enough and I would recommend using about 15 ft-lbs of torque using a 14mm or 9/16" deep socket to set the upper shock bushing squash for red urethane bushings. The same goes for the anti-sway bar bushings which protrude through the lower A-arm. FSM reports 19 ft-lbs for them.

If you continue to run the front suspension without properly relaxing the torsion bar preload you will ruin your 4Runner!...