Car service ramp suggestions?

Hey all,

I was looking to purchase a set of the Rhino Ramp Maxs and saw a lot of poor review, along with photos of them failing and/or cracking. I've seen many 4runner owners use them so I figured this was the go to choice, however I'm now a bit skeptical.

What is everyone's suggestion here? I'd love any input. I'd be using them for oil changes mostly. Considering also just building a wood set however I'm worried about wood splitting and wood screws possibly puncturing a tire. Anyone ever done this?

 

I've never had a problem getting under either of my rigs to access the oil drain plug/filter. I always try and get the the vehicle "level" so the oil will drain properly....not sure if an elevated front end (ramps) will pool oil behind the pan drain hole anywhere....I guess it wouldn't be that much if it did. I do have a set of the Rhino Max's in the garage that I use on the wife's RAV4, no way I'm getting under the RAV with out a ramp....no issues to speak of with the Rhinos.

 

You can change the oil easily on a 5th gen without ramps. The only possible glitch is sometimes the skid plate ears don't allow the plate to come off easily if the front isn't slightly elevated.

 

The harbor freight ones are slightly cheaper and not less good but since I like to have my vehicle in level to do oil I would buy 2 pairs, should be possible with a 4Runner since they sit pretty high even without a lift.

 

Don’t know about Rhino ramps. The problem I have had with metal ramps is that, when you’re trying to drive up on them with a non-driven wheel, the ramps can scoot on concrete and you just end up pushing them across the garage floor (not enough downforce the first inch or two to anchor the ramp). Putting it in FWD usually mitigates this problem.

Wooden ramps shouldn’t be a problem. Splintering isn’t an issue, and, if screws are screwed in fully, they won’t present a threat to your tires. I’d avoid building something that has a sloped face. Instead do like a lot of RVers do and cut and stack some 2x6 or 2x8 so they look like steps with 1 foot wide tread (a 1 foot board on top of a 2 foot board on top of a 3 foot board, ... ), screw each layer together with 3” deck screws to keep them aligned when in use. Screw a 2x2 or 2x3 on the top step to present a little parking bumper to “feel” with your tire to keep from driving off the top step.

 

I've heard it's a bit dangerous to set your car up on 2 pairs of the ramps. lots can go wrong in my opinion

 

I'm 6'4" and around 215 pounds so while I can fit under there, it would still be easier with more room haha the 3 inch lift helps

 

i can’t see why!
I could insure or kill myself with just one pair I don’t need two pairs for that but since I’m working with care I rather set her up on all 4 wheels and do everything underneath in one shot. But don’t get me wrong everyone should do stuff like that save and in his own zone of comfort

 

I used oak wood.. I have property that has oak trees..if you have oak and chain saw quick and cheap fabrication. no screws required using a 12 inch diameter log 3 feet long.
5inch lift works good on the oil change for me. 2X8 boards will work good stack up 3 4.5inch lift. I do not trust china crap steel jack stands runner is a heavy MF..

 

2 pairs of ramps sounds a little risky to me too. I know the concept is to get the vehicle level so all the oil drains out, but, realistically, what little oil is left if only the front wheels are lifted is negligible compared to how much new oil you’re putting in.

 

I bought a $120 jack. and two jack stands. Much safer

 

Bought Rhino tamps $40 on Amazon to install skid plates. Worked out nicely.

 

We use those lego style leveling blocks to build ramps usually.

 

LOL, was simply considering any and every problem that could happen. If you drill into a 2x4 too deep it can cause the wood to start to split, add 2K pounds and the 2x4 could split in half causing the head of the screw to be exposed. I'm not saying this would happen, but ya never know

 

I bought a pair of ramps from Auto Zone (I believe) 5+ yrs ago and have had F-350 diesels etc on them with no problem, they are still in use. I have used them for my friends low vehicles to due repairs & pull my riding lawnmower on it to clean the deck every few days.
They are gray plastic with a lot of reinforcements underneath yet they are still light. The will slide out if you don't shove them under the wheels when in place to pull onto them.
I am also 6'4" 235 & I need them to make oil changes easier. Work smarter not harder.
Good luck & let us know if you build or buy.
Ryan.

 

You'd be better off in my opinion with a nice jack and set of jack stands. Then you're not limited to just oil changes. You can do all kinds of basic and advanced maintenance and modification.

 

I have a FNG question. I am used to solid front axles from my trucks. Where is the best point to put the jack stands to say rotate the tires? I only looked the one time I was under it & in a hurry. I would like to know the proper point to put the stands on the front with the control arms. Thanks for helping a newish T4R owner!
Ryan.

*Edit* I have the two ramps, one 4 ton jack, one two ton jack, two 6 ton stands & two 3 ton stands. It takes a lot to get it all done!

 

I believe it should be in the owners manual, but i will search for the diagram.

 

I appreciate that.
Apparently they really don't want us to do our own oil changes! If you lift from that point you cannot get your skid plates off for an oil change. I need to find a good skid plate that has plug & filter access...

 

@SlvrSlug
That would be a great point for tire rotations & that is what I asked. Thanks a bunch!

 

Just don’t put the jack under the gas tank skid like I did in a hurry. I heard a little crunching and thought oops. Left a little dent....

 

Jack points on the rear axel as well. In manual under tire change

 

Thanks!
I agree those are good points. However if lifting the front from the frame, your tires will drop due to suspension and you cannot rotate the tires. Am I missing something simple here?
I guess I will have to buy a lift & put it in my driveway! LMAO
Ryan

 

After I almost buried my front wheel in “quicksand”, my skid pan was full of sand and gravel. Using the lift points on the frame just behind the front wheels, I was able to get the pan off without a problem.

 

If you use the spare to start the rotation only 1 corner of the car is up at any time
Drop spare
Remove passenger rear
Put spare in its place
Now rotate as Needed.

 

I thought of doing a 5-tire rotation, but the 4Runner TPMS can only link to 4 transmitters. That means, for 80% of your tires’ life, you’ll have one tire on the road that is not being monitored.

 

However, you can use the spare to temporarily occupy one position until all the tires are rotated in a 4 tire rotation, and then put the spare back in the .... uh .... “spare place” when you’re all done.

 

For 25 years I had 100% non monitored. So I dont really mind. I got a TRD wheel at the 40% off sale last year and started to rotate it in. No issues. Just have to manually check it from tim to time

 

tire rotations of 4 tires will create all tires to wear all the same and keeps the 4wd with less wear. rotating 5 tires 4 tires will wear be smaller then the spare will be bigger.. cause a problem with the drive train..
I use a 3ton floor jack jack up the rear diff .. both rear wheels off the ground. then I use a small bottle jack to lift the lower control arm up 1inch runner is not lifted more than 1 inch.. level.. easy to rotate the tires..the small jack is a low level jack 12tons ..small fits under the control arm ..why did I buy that 12 ton small bottle jack ??? because I use it to lift up my house beams/floor joists etc..