Can't find the fuse for the cigarette lighter in my 2023.

In installed Cali LED grill lights and followed their installation video. I used the EFI-2 fuse for my power source which resulted in my 2 week old 4runner being towed back to the dealer and a $107 diagnostic bill to clear the codes. The dealer suggested using the cigarette lighter fuse for a power source. Problem is I don't see it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Mike

 

as a rule: if you don't know, it means it is not for you. messing with electricity makes car goes in smoke. proved many times over.

 

Good to know

 

Good judgement comes from experience. And experience comes from bad judgment. We all started out knowing nothing and learned through our mistakes.

 

What lights did you try to install?

I used (moved to INJ fuse) EFI-2 for my raptor lights just fine. Sounds like you shorted it somewhere...?

What type of codes came up? Couldn't you just remove the add a fuse?
$107 seems pretty cheap. I bet the dealer just disconnected the battery for a few minutes and give it a hard reboot.

 

The raptor lights were made by Cali...the instruction video they showed for installation indicated the EFI2 fuse. The Toyota mechanic stated not to use the EFI2 fuse. Hard to believe the manufacture or the mechanic. I would have thought the manufacture would have contacted Toyota or some other resource before posting a video. Most mechanics only know how to replace items that their computer program tells them to replace. Not sure if the Toyota mechanic falls into that category or not... was not able to talk to him. I don't to have the vehicle towed again by using the EFI2 fuse. The word I got from the service advisor was to use the cigarette lighter fuse. It was not shown on the fuse box lid. The code stated to take the vehicle to a dealer and it also looked like a traction light came on. The service rep. stated the vehicle would reduce the speed to 35 mph is I were to drive it.

Mike

 

Look at the one inside on drivers side under the left Kick panel marked "Outlet" and make sure before you hook anything up that it is not shorted to ground.

 

The fuse box is in the engine compartment unless a 2023 has 2 fuse boxes. The manufactures video on installing the LED lights showed the fuse box in the engine compartment. My frustration is I can't find the cigarette lighter fuse location in anywhere on the internet.
Mike

 

There's not a fuse box under the driver's side dash, kind of above where the hood release is? That's where earlier 5th gens are, my 19 is there.

I never use any "critical" fuses for accessories, nothing that would cause the vehicle to not run if it fails. The EFI fuse would be an example of that.

Also Cali Raised doesn't make shit, they resell Chinese crap, so unless the actual manufacturer's 8 year old child labor tech support kid gave you those instructions I would absolutely believe the Toy mechanic over CR.

 

This story does not add up. There are plenty of folks who have raptor lights who don't need to be towed to the dealer lol, including me.

Let me know if I have this right:

You installed Raptor lights. Used an add-a-fuse to EFI 2 fuse slot per the instructions. "traction control" light came up. Which prompted you to get it TOWED to the dealership.


Your faith in people who sell stuff online is really high. Like @MeefZah stated, they are just buying Chinese crap and reselling it with sometimes nice packaging.

Help:
Use the INJ slot.

 

Good Moring Lockdown, the traction light was not the main factor in getting it towed. A message indicating to take the rig to the dealer appeared. I called the dealer to see if I could clear the code myself. Of course they said "no" that they would have to clear it. The code (can't remember the exact verbiage) indicated the vehicle speed would be reduced to 35 mph if I drive it. I have roadside service provided by Toyota, so I had it towed.

The service rep. stated the mechanic suggested not hooking to anything that could cause a feedback to the computer and cause a code. Not sure if this is BS or not. That is why I am in search for the fuse for the cigarette lighter. So far no one seems to know where that fuse is.

Thanks for all of your input.

 

What's interesting is you seem to be looking for a fuse for something in your 2023 - cigarette lighter - hasn't been offered in 4Runners for years...

 

To locate it all you have to do is look in the console. Granted there is not a lighter there just the receptacle...used to charge devices.

 

Aaaanyway — have a look at the footwell fuse panel. Look for a fuse labeled P/OUTLET.

Cheers.


Photo credit:
This image is from an older model year than yours. The P/OUTLET fuse might be in a different spot in the fuse panel on your vehicle.

 

I'm curious...did you try and drive the truck over 35 MPH or did you take the sales person's word?

As it's been stated, you can use the EFI-2 fuse slot, or INJ, or INJ3 or Outlet under your steering wheel.

 

Thank you Captain Spalding...My fuse box is under the hood, however I am sure the P/OUTLET is there.

 

Unless your ‘23 is substantially different from my ‘22 (which is unlikely) there are two fuse boxes. One is in the driver’s side footwell above the dead pedal

 

I will check it out tomorrow.....thank you very much.

 

Here’s a picture of my 2022 ORP interior fuse panel cover with the P/OUTLET fuse position highlighted. It differs from the photo above, and should be like yours.

 

9 out of 10 times electrical mods on modern vehicles don’t work out. You’ve woken up the gremlins.

 

Approx 4 people have told him where box 2 is or where it should be based on their models; at this point he's got to just be obstinately refusing to go to his garage and look.

 

There is more than 1 Fuse Box on the 4Runner 1 in the engine Bay, 1 on the Driver's side either under the kick panel or just above it.

 

Okay, new 2023 4runner owner here, but also an experienced electrical engineer. I concur with the original poster, the fuse for the 2x 12v outlets (previously known as cigarette lighters) is not easy to find. I can guarantee that the fuse labeled P/outlet does not guard the 12v outlet in the dash or in the console. It does handle the one in the rear cargo. So I for one am still looking for the right fuse for the two fore mounted 12v outlets.

 

I've also tested the fuse box under the hood. Still no dice. The power outlet 2 fuse under the hood doesn't control the in dash or console ones either.

 

Interesting.

 

Maybe just try the INJ 7.5A. Seems to work for majority.
Ensure tap is facing right direction though.

 

In my 2022 owners manual it says that the maximum capacity of all three outlets is 120w. This would seem to indicate that they are all on the same fuse.

In the screenshot from an admittedly older wiring diagram (circa 2010) it shows all three on the same fuse.

.

 

Interesting that manufacturers of these cheap raptor lights are suggesting to fuse tap for a power source. This puts an additional load on the wire/circuit that you’re tapping into.

Honestly if it were my car, I would use a relay that pulls current directly from the battery and use the parking light wire as the relay trigger. You could even use just about any ignition type wire as an additional load is not put on that wire. The load is put directly in the battery. I would diode isolate all of the circuits just in case there is a short in the lights. You can put all of this together for under $15 or buy a prebuilt relay harness kit for about $25.

 

This is a very good concept @Steelvo.
Unfortunately, most of us are newbies.

I always pick a safe and easy route for now. That can be returned to stock within minutes.
If a dealership service is required.

 

@steelevo is right. Using a relay IS the safe and easy route. Modern car electronics are very complicated. It’s not just switches, wires and components. Everything gets wired through a module. There are lots of modules and all they all talk to one another. And the modules are always evaluating parameters, and when one of the parameters is out of whack then a code gets thrown and a light on the dash lights up and everyone gets nervous because it’s all controlled by a black box and the only people who understand what’s going on in the black box are in Japan.

I know, a relay is a black box too, and that’s a little scary, but there’s not really much going on there. It basically uses an electromagnet operated by a tiny current to operate some electrical contacts that control a larger current.


Here’s an ancient relay. The same thing happens in modern relays. A little current is passed through the coil, which closes the contacts that control a larger current. The same thing goes on in the little black cubes we know as automotive relays.

So why use a relay with Raptor lights? Well, when you plug your add-a-tap or whatever into the fuse panel then the Raptor lights draw enough current that a parameter gets out of whack and a module throws a code. But … if you use relay, the Raptor lights are powered through the relay directly from the battery, and the add-a-tap is just supplying the tiny amount of current needed to trigger the relay, and the parameters don’t get out of whack enough to freak out the module and everyone is happy.