Brake Replacement Parts List- 5th Gen

Hi guys. I just replaced my brakes at 70k with OEM parts, most of which I bought online, and wanted to share the parts list that I refined after a full understanding of what comes with what part number from Toyota. From the forums I had a mostly complete list but the online stores dont always have very clear descripitions and kind of hard to know if "qty 1" is a complete set, or literally just qty 1 and sometimes hard to know what a "kit" includes. Anyway, just sharing to help others and much thanks to whomever I got the original list from that got me 90% of what I needed. I have a 2016 but I would assume nothing has changed for all the model years of 5th gen.

Brake Parts:

Front Rotor: 43512-60191, Qty 2
Front Brake Pads: 04465-60320
Front Shim Kit: 04945-60090
Front Caliper Pins: 47735-60300, Qty 4
Front Caliper Clip Pin hold (Spring): 47743-60280, Qty 2
Front Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Set of 2 clips: 04947-35050

Rear Rotor: 42431-60311, Qty 2
Rear Brake Pads: 04466-60140
Rear Disc Brake Pad Shim Kit: 04946-60141
Rear Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Set, Pad Support Plates: 04947-22050
Rear, Pin Cylinder Slide, Disc Brake Caliper Pin: 47715-43010, Qty 4
Rear Rebuild Kit, Rubber Pin Slide Bush/Bush Dust Boot/Plug and Lithium Glycol Grease (pink): 04479-60030, Qty 1 per axel but grease is marginal

Do Not Use (as reported by forum member):
- these kits are economy quality -
Front Brake kit: 04465-AZ001-TM
Rear Brake kit: 04466-AZ004-TM

Torque specs:

Front brake caliper mounting bolts: 137 lb-ft if (19mm)
Rear brake caliper mounting bolts: 77 lb-ft (17mm)
Rear brake caliper slide pins: 65 lb-ft (17mm)

 

Factory is good, but I really like my Powerstop Z36 kit. Locks up on a dime and rubber is the only limiting factor stopping. I put 350 lbs in back to keep from wearing rears out because of the EBD system. Mine has 3rd row and is pitched forward at the moment. I believe the system uses pitch and yaw sensors to detect body lean and apply according. No nose dive and no warpage after killing two deer and avoiding 3 grandmas locking them down. A must for towing or hauling weight

 

I always grease the front caliper pins at every tire rotation as well. Makes them easy to get out.

 

It's good to keep them lubed with synthetic brake grease

 

this pink grease specifically for greasing caliper pistons, when replacing caliper piston's seals. this pink grease only for that, that it does not contaminate brake fluid. slide pins may be better to grease with brake grease. no powerstops better than OEM parts, powerstop just sales pitch.

 

Powerstop Z36 is definitely better than factory. I can attest to that from experience. Lock up on a dime without warpage. I have used last 20 years on my vehicles and one of best improvements there is. How many Powerstop brakes have you used? I live their carbon ceramic pads. No fade just lock into a slide. I don't care for factory marshmallow feel. I can feel my pads on n the rotors and how much pressure to apply. No nose dive

 

just curious were you having issues with the cylinders or just rebuilding as preventative maintenance?

 

pistons replacement quite expencive at $35 per piston. bottom ones usually rusted. preventve cleaning cheaper

 

Hey, thanks for the parts list and pics.
I managed to replace the pads without replacing anything else and the part number matches for the 2018 pads.
Still have a few miles for the rotors - coming soon.
Was thinking about trading in for a 2024 but after checking the price tag
I've decided to become a part time Toyota mechanic!

 

So...are there 2 anti-rattle clips for each front wheel or only 1 each?

 

1

 

First off, I'm not a fan of most of the nanny control features on these vehicles.
But, how does one lock up the brakes on an anti-lock brake system?

Are we actually talking 4 wheel skid?

Or pulsating stops.

 

what are you even talking about

 

A poster mentioned locking them up.
So I asked. How does one lock up the brakes on an A/L brake system?
When that poster gets back on-line, maybe the smoke will have cleared.

 

Since the A-trac and MTS use the brakes to control spin, would a more aggressive pad or rotor affect those systems? Maybe not, I suppose the wheel speed sensors/ABS would control those?

 

It pulses like any ABS.

The previous poster was asking if was having issues because hes changing pins etc not normally done on a brake job.

 

I think the previous poster he was referring to is Greg D, who said his Powerstop Z36 pads "Lock up on a dime without warpage."

 

OP here. I clearly did not have to replace all the parts with new and could have saved some money for sure but I did need new rotors due to some warping. For all the other bits, my logic was that I wanted to start wtih new shim kits to complement the new pads and for the rear wanted to refresh the pink grease, and once you refresh the pink grease you are supposed to change the rubber boots (rebuild kit). Kind of a slippery slope. In hindsight, I should have reused the front and rear pins as they were perfect but didnt know that before going into the job.

Another learning experience. I bought a Mity Vac to help with brake fluid replacement which was useless. I just had the wife help with pushing on the brake pedal while I worked the little bleeder caps and topped off the fluid in the reservoir. Very easy procedure.

 

Agreed, I just had to bleed my rear brake lines because I put on longer shocks and brake lines. Just keep the brake pedal depressed and fluid shoots out with the automatic bleeder on the 4Runner. I'm going to bleed the fronts when I change out the brake pads this weekend too just because it was so easy and it can't hurt to put some fresh fluid in.

By the way, I had no idea how many different types of brake fluids there are now. What is the OEM recommendation for these vehicles? I think I grabbed generic DOT 4 but they have specialty types of DOT 4 and 5 now and they are stupid expensive.