Body Mount Cut require for 285/70R17 tires w/ 3" lift??

So I have lifted my 4runner 3" front and 2" rear using Rough Country's front strut spacer and rear spring spacer along w/ longer rear RC shocks and a front 1" diff drop kit.

I plan to switch to 285/70R17 tires aka 32.7" tires. However, I heard people saying they still have rubbing issue and need to remove mud flap and do fender liner trimming (which I don't mind). But will I likely or not likely need to do a BMC Body Mount Chop?? I don't wish to do BMC

 

Depends on offset of your wheels and how far back the alignment has your wheels positioned.

I had to cut the cab mounts and then ziptied the mudflaps back tight in the middle. It clears but i may still adjust alignment to shift tires forward a hair more. I'm only on 1.5" lift though.

 

do you have any lift or is it 100% stock suspension height?

 

you didn't need a BMC even w/ only a 1.5 inch leveling kit running on 285/70R17? Wow you lucky.

 

I think he said he cut the cab mounts...

I did not and I did about 2.5” lift tho I only cleared for daily driving. Haven’t tried full lock full stuff.

0 offset 8”wide wheels.

 

No I did. Called it cab mount. Body mount. Whatever you want to call it.
Drove it a week without chop though. Likely could have just gone more aggressive with alignment moving wheels forward and been ok without cutting mounts.

 

caster alignment adjustment is better and cheaper than getting your Body or Cab Mount chopped off... lol

 

I had cutoff wheels, sanding wheels, and spray paint in the garage already so chop was free-ish. I have a welder and scrap metal so even if i feel like adding filler plate, still basically free.


Didn't even get an alignment after lifting. Tracks good, camber is right at 0° each side, and total toe is within factory spec. Haven't wanted to fiddle with it yet. Will eventually though.

 

What I meant was some people adjust their caster to prevent rubbing. As far as alignment after lift, it is definitely recommended to prevent tire wear!

 

You didnt say what rim you are running but if its a stock wheel rubbing wont be an issue. You may have trouble getting a good alignment. Upper control arms are recommended to be replaced with something more adjustable with anything over 2”. Also, you may want to add a differential drop kit. They arent very expensive and will put your cv joints back into proper geometry to prevent breaking them. Im at 3” and run SPC upper control arms, a diff drop kit, and BFG 285/70 KO2s on stock wheels. No rub.

 

You didn't read my comment completely, I DO have 1" front diff drop. No new UCA because it didn't came w/ the lift kit and I don't think there's really a need for it at 3" of lift.
As far as stock rim goes, I hear people saying stock rim will rub and some say stock won't running on BFGoodrich KO2 285/70R17. Everybody says different things so there's no definite answer....

 

Not necessarily. The rubbing with the scenario you described (3" lift/stock wheels/2857017s) 'can' require either the bmc or possibly adjustments to your caster.

I have a 3" toytec lift with JBA UCAs. When I switched to 285/70r17s I got slight bit of rub at full 7/8 lock which caused me to do the bmc. Every 4runner seems to be a tad different.

This chart from Engineer1 on TR4 is pretty helpful.

 

Check out the chart I posted....you are correct that there is no definite answer.

It is kind of like the whole diff drop thing. Some guys swear by it, others not so much. I ran one on my FJ for a while, under I added aluminum skids. I did a bunch of reading on it, and asked questions. I yanked mine off and didn't even contemplate putting one on my 4R when I lifted it.

The UCAs would most likely give you a better alignment (maybe cut down on the darting feeling on the highway, etc). I never did them on my FJ, but went with the JBA UCAs on my 4R because after lifting and alignment I was getting a bit of the 'darty' feeling on the highway. That was possibly due to the E rated tires I was running at the time, but the UCAs went on and it went away.

 

That chart you posted, I've already seen it before believe it or not. STILL, that chart is not 100% accurate and only a reference BECAUSE not all 4runner setup are exactly the same. I've heard people had rubbing issue running 275 on stock height w/ OEM rims. And Rubbing issue on 285 w/ 3" of lift and they STILL required a BMC.

 

I have just finished making some modifications to my truck, including a Stage 7 Icon suspension, which gives 3.5" of lift in the front; I've added the Overland rear, which gives 3 inches of lift there. My tires have gone from 275/70/17 to 295/70/17 (BFG KO2s to Nittos). The shop needed to do a slight Body Mount Chop (fenders were already removed) to make the 295s fit without rubbing. I was warned, however, at full turn, and in reverse while off-roading, I might experience some inner rub still (just not while daily driving).

Hope this helps.

 

I have just finished making some modifications to my truck, including a Stage 7 Icon suspension, which gives 3.5" of lift in the front; I've added the Overland rear, which gives 3 inches of lift there. My tires have gone from 275/70/17 to 295/70/17 (BFG KO2s to Nittos). The shop needed to do a slight Body Mount Chop (fenders were already removed) to make the 295s fit without rubbing. I was warned, however, at full turn, and in reverse while off-roading, I might experience some inner rub still (just not while daily driving). The chop was really minor, so I wouldn't worry much about getting one.

Hope this helps.

 

No one said the chart is 100%. Hence the color coding showing the variances.

The reason for the variances is partially with alignments. Not every 4runner is aligned the same. Sometimes caster can help adjust out your front end to avoid a body mount chop. Sometimes it can't be adjust enough to do that. Add to that all the difference lift kits, spacer kits, etc, and you start adding more variables to the equation. That chart is a good starting point though.

 

What I can't understand is if you already know that "every truck is different", and you are aware that the chart that has been compiled using data from owners across multiple forums is not completely accurate and serves as a guide only, is why you keep asking in multiple threads if you will or will not need a BMC -and then you argue when you're told that you will not.

Most of the user experiences in that chart thread on T4R indicate that you will not. A lot of guys are even able to run smaller 33s" on a stock suspension. It seems like you've already decided to do the BMC, so just do the BMC. Nobody cares if you do or don't, it's your truck. As I've noted before, I don't feel that you need it, and I have never needed it across multiple 5th gen, lifted, larger tire ownership experiences, but again it's your truck.

 

so you had 275/70R17 w/ 3" lift and you didn't need any trimming. But after you went from 275/70R17 to 295/70R17 you had to do a body mount chop to prevent rubbing?

 

I don't think you get what I'm saying, if that chart was soooo accurate, then WHY are there still people out there reporting that 285 tires w/ a 3inch of lift will STILL rub after all???? You get what im saying? That's what I'm sooo confused about.

 

There's other variables at play. As other people pointed out, caster for one. Actual tire size, MT v AT v HT, wheel spacers or wheel style, UCAs.... the trucks themselves are all the same, the individual adjustments / specs can vary.

 

and so that chart can be only a reference not a 100% guide. After all there's sooo many other variable that can come into play

 

Correct. I need to add that I also have 1.25 inch spacers.

295s are slightly bigger than 33 inches, and that’s a lot of tire for a 4Runner, especially at full turn, which is what we are really talking about when we say we have the need to do a BMC. The BMC I had was relatively minor, and as mentioned the fenders were already removed. Another thing to keep in mind is the brand of tire. Some have more aggressive tread at their edge, making rubbing a greater possibility than others that have a less aggressive tread pattern.

 

Ok

 

Are you intentionally trying to be difficult?

Multiple people have given you pretty good answers about this. NO ONE said the chart was 100% accurate. It is a good BASELINE.

 

All...just let it go; it’s really easy to lose or not understand intent on a blog (text messages, emails), etc.

It’s best to assume the writer of a message is not trying to be difficult intentionally, and at worst either don’t respond or respond with decency. At least you’ll have done your part to keep things peaceful.

 

Does anyone have pics of the BMC that they did or had done?

 

All this shit talk, debate, arguing or whatever you wanna call it is just pure dumb. So....luckily I didn't end up rubbing the body mount (but very close) when I installed Toyo Open Country AT II 285/70R17 aka 32.8inch tire.

Was I trying to make this difficult? Do I have a fucking reason to??? And even if I was, what was the point of it?? What was the point of anyone trying to make this hard? No logical reason behind it if you have common fucking sense.

Bottom line is not all rigs are 100% the same.
Here's an example that 285/70R17 needed a BMC with a 3inch lift. Watch the fucking vid.

https://youtu.be/-bIZN7NBqXc