Being told conflicting info about tire sizes I can put on my 2021 Venture with stock TRD 17” rims

Hi. I am being told conflicting things for the size tire I can put on my 2021 Venture with stock trd 17” rims. Putting 3” lift up front, 2 1/2” back. Shop doing the lift telling me 285s can’t fit on the 17” rims due to the negative offset. On line it says 285 should be fine up to 33”. Discount tire says fine as well but this shop specializes in truck mods. Wants me to do 18” rims with less offset. Who do I believe? Thanks.

 

I have a -12mm offset with 285/75/17 with an 8.5” think wheel. Very little problems (front mud flaps removed). Not sure of what issue and a lot of people go to 285/70/17 after lift. I would ignore the shop but that is just me.

 

I have -38mm on my wife’s on 17” rims. She has 285/70/17. Did a BMC it fits fine. May want to go to another shop.

 

I had 285’s on 7” Pro rims with no issues. I didn’t air down so I cannot comment on that.

I would stick with 17” rims.

 

Thanks. Does the brand of 285s matter? Is one reason why some have issues and some don’t because the sidewall is sloped a little different on certain tires? It seems like just a few mm could make or break the rubbing issues. I prefer to do no BMC as I’m a total novice (as you can probably tell) and don’t want to screw up my truck.

 

Do you plan to get UCA's?

Because if you don't, you will definitely rub your body mount with a 3" lift, 285's, and a negative offset.

 

He's on stock wheels, no? Should be no rubbing except on things like fender liner at full lock reverse and maybe mudflaps, easy fixes. Shouldn't be any body mount rubbing with 285s, stock UCAs, lift, and stock wheels.

 

Thought they were aftermarket wheels since he said negative offset but just re-read to see he said stock Venture wheels (Pro wheels).

I still think it's possible to rub on the body mount with +4 offset, 285's, and a 3" lift.

You can alway try it first before buying UCA's. If you rub on the body mount, you can either do the BMC or buy UCA's and push your caster up to avoid the BMC.

 

I think that’s what I’ll do. Try it, see if it rubs and if so, how much of an issue it is. If it rubs only at end turn then could likely live with that as long as just for a few seconds at back up speed. If a lot of rub, the address it. Appreciate the input.

 

I'm surprised shop doing lift say you can't use 285s on TRD Pro wheels because of the offset? The correct information as far I've seen is you can't use 285s on TRD Pro wheels because they do not meet the minimum width requirements for 285s. Only TRD Offroad wheels meet the minimum width to run 285s.

With TRD Pro wheels offset the tires would rub more, so you would need more trimming but I don't see trimming been a big deal. Shops might be little scared about the liability mounting 285s on TRD Pro wheels that does not meet the minimum width could be why giving that excuse..

 

There is a ton of experience on 285/70/17 so you can do it as well. Just remove the mud guards and you should be fine. If anything, you might have to do a little trimming on the front and around the fender liners but I doubt it. I think the key is to go to a shop or place that has done it before and not let the guys that have no idea about the subject give you advice. Go for it! You will do fine and please send us pics.

 

Go to the tire manufacturer’s website and look at the specs for the tire you are interested in. They all practically list the acceptable wheel width range for all their tires. Generally the 7” width of the OEM wheel is going to be too narrow for a 285 tire. But as others have stated above, many are and have done it without issue. Some tire shops will not even raise a question and mount the tires, whiles others will refuse. Another option may be a 275/70/17 tire.

You might have some minor rubbing with plastic stuff but a BMC will not be needed. However if you go with 3” lift in front you definitely should get UCA’s to get good alignment numbers.

 

2018OR, 285-70-17s here on ko2's, and now AT3's, Fuel rims, no idea what the offset is. OEM uca's, vated coils up front, ome back. I only rub on the mud flap, at full lock, only in reverse, and dont care. Also, i get exact oem alignment numbers. Had just spacers before spring changes, and rubbed exactly the same. Road on 285-70-17s for 80k on this thing, and its been great. Awesome tire wear (my ko2's had 68k on them when i got new rubber, and i could have went longer, and use one for my spare) rides great/straight, zero vibrations, or anything.

 

thanks for the advice, gang. I took the plunge, did the 3"front/2"back lift, 285 Faulken tires, rhino RB20 boards. Thing looks awesome to me, but am sure it is pedestrian to what some of you all have done. advice was perfect. have some rubbing as expected, so removed front mud flaps. helps reduce rubbing but still rubs up front. what is the best way to trim that? i assume I cannot leave a hole there to keep structures above it weatherproofed? and do people typically cut the mud flaps and remount the trimmed outer margin into the well again or just leave them off completely? you guys were 100% spot on...

 

Two options....really...and care must be taken when doing them.

1. Push the front fender/liner piece with your hands to get a feel for how much clearance you need. Then, we either a heat gun or a small grinder trim carefully that section, but go easy on it. Maybe measure first or even create a line with tape so that you guide yourself. It should be minimal IMO.

2. Get ready for the Viper cut. But be committed because this is major cutting in my opinion. I am not so thrilled on mine but it is done.

Pictures please.

 

Pics?

 

Leave the mudflaps off and fill the holes with the OEM bolts and some "variable depth automotive fasteners" with a black head, sold at hardware stores that still have bins of nuts and not bags of nuts.

Easiest / fastest fender liner: this is trial and error, basically unbolt the bottom bolts and push the front part of the liner forward and up about an inch more or less till clearance obtained. Then rebolt it in place using the screws you removed,; you may have to drill the bottom of the bumper (you may be able to use existing holes, it all depends) but you will have to pierce the plastic of the liner with the screws to make new holes. Don't get ham fisted tightening the screws, just till snug since the fender liner plastic can strip easily. You can then trim the very bottom of the bumper that now protrudes over the bottom of the fender liner like an underbite using a razor knife. The cut is hard to see when it's done because it's on the bottom of the bumper right before the wheel, so don't fret about that. Basically cut off the underbite.

You are seeking clearance basically at the front of the fender so don't worry about anything above or behind the tire, just the area in front of it and you only need about 1".

 

No......you do not need a viper cut.

Look up the fender liner mod for our trucks and do that. It's really easy and it will give you clearance up front. Edit: Fender liner mod explained by @MeefZah ^

Have you had an alignment yet? Did you tell them to max out your caster? If not, do this. If you have already done this, then the only way to fit mudflaps without rubbing is to get UCA's so you can increase caster again and push your wheel forward in your wheel well so that you don't rub in back.

And since you're doing the fender liner mod, you won't rub up front either

 

I too don't understand why one need a viper cut for 285s. Both my TRD ORP and Limited got 285s and all they needed was a little trim front.

 

Ok, i exaggerated a little bit. You don't need one....but in case you mess up doing a small cut, you might as well go all in with the Viper thing. But yes, you are right. You don't need one. This is a small fender trimming exercise.

 

Pics

 

first attempt at alignment and it pulls a little to the left. going back for another attempt wednesday. would UCAs fix this? hate to keep dollin' out money but not sure how hard alignment is with these mods. shouldnt they be able to align it without UCAs?

 

It doesn't look like you have done any trimming. Follow exactly what @MeefZah mentioned above and you should be fine. I was going to give another advice....but given the reaction of my Viper cut note...I feel I keep my mouth shut. Ok, I am only joking...because I know the other ones will fall out of their chairs. I kid you not, I was told at a shop to do a BMC for this exact issue. Of course not needed. Just get the grinder or sharp tool and go cut it my friend. Good luck. Send pictures of the final product when you can.

 

Yes, they should...but every truck is a little different, and at 3" you are pretty much right where alignment with factory UCAs becomes not possible. I am personally not a proponent of aftermarket UCAs due to my inherent cheapness coupled with the maintenance needs of most aftermarket UCAs, but at a certain height they pretty much become required. I am unsure if you got adjustable coilovers on your lift up front but if you did, and you are at 3", and your alignment i not able to get into spec, I first would try lowering the preload to drop the ride height by about 1/3" and having the shop realign. For reference I am at 2.5" up front and I have factory UCAs with alignment in spec.

 

Thanks, MeefZah. I am so appreciative of what all of you have advised. I got my raptor lights installed now. Did the trimming up front without any significant issues as you guys recommended. Seems to have fixed the rubbing issues. Even trimmed out the rubbing areas on the front mud flaps and reinstalled to keep the look. Next alignment and hopefully good to go....until next week when I find more things to tinker with. This is fun and expensive!