Bed Lining Whole Body.. How Much?

Hi, I have an old 4runner that I love to death. Both heads were replaced a year ago, and she runs like a dream, but the outer body leaves a lot to be desired.

It's mostly red with a black hood, and some of the red is more of a pink, as it's lost its clear-coat. It also has a large dent in the back panel that would cost tons to repair since it's all one piece, and would need repaired before a body shop would paint it. Since it has upwards of 240k miles on it I'm not wanting to put a few grand in it. When it dies I'll just get a third gen runner, so I'm not looking for input as to whether I should do it or not. I'll only be improving its look, I guarantee it. Yes it'll hold dirt, yes it'll weigh more than paint, yes it'll be dull. I just want to know from someone who has done it, how many gallons it took to cover the entire body, or if anyone has estimations.

TL;DR: My truck is ugly and dented. I am going to put bed liner on the entire body. How much will I need to do the job, in gallons? 1995 Runner.

 

Probably a gallon. I used little less to paint mine white. Only used i think 2 cans of Rustoleum truck bed liner to do the Stripe on the bottom. How ever you do it or whatever product you use, make sure you can spray it and go slow with many layers . You dont want to roll on bed liner unless you can lay everything flat.

 

Okay, thank you! Did you do white on top black in bottom? That's what I'd like to do. Does the roll-on drip?

 

White is Rustoleum Paint. Bottom us Rustoleum truck bed liner. Roll on is hard to get to lay flat. Often you will roll on a vertical surface and it will run if your not careful. Most people use for there beds so they often dont care about drips or runs. But for side of a truck id assume you'd want it as flat as possible.

 

Also you want to do some prep work, Might want to take some sand paper like 1000 Grit and rough up the clear coat(if there is any left) or take the clear completely off. Will help the truck bed liner stick better. You dont have to do this but it will help, Ive seen some truck bed liners get sprayed right on to clear coat and sticks.

Also your dents on the rear can be pushed back out from the inside of the truck. Just use a hammer and 2x4.

 

Oh and i did the whole truck white and sprayed the liner over the bottum. Check out my build page for pictures of step by step.

 

Oh, gotcha, it looks good! I like the Tacoma front end on yours. And yes I was planning on sanding everything to get it to stick better, if you put the liner on the bumpers would it stick or should I sand and or prime them? I couldn't find your progress pics..

Would the dent trick still work if it has some rust on it? I haven't touched it because of that. I don't want to make holes.

 

I put the liner right over the steel bumpers. Just made sure it was clean and oil free. The Truck bed liner will stick better then normal paint.

Some rust might fall out... you can always use fiberglass or bondo to patch it. Not enough rust from what i can see that you couldn't tap it back out. Might be bend rust now but could be straight rust after...lol

 

Okay awesome I was hoping I could just
put it right on them haha. And that's true, I could just patch it, I forget you can do that.
Thanks so much for your help!

 

NP, Keep us updated with pictures and make Her shine again!

 

Planning on it! I'll just be glad to not have to wax her every 3 months to make 'er all the same color

 

If you want a nice quality paint here's a website for you,
http://durabakcompany.com/colorchart.htm
It's more expensive then for say rustoleum but it does a fantastic job

 

I looked at these. Cool stuff. I wanted to try it but Im a Rustoleum fan and it was easy to get too... FYI if you go with this there FAQ said

Can Durabak™ be sprayed? Yes, with most conventional spray equipment but it requires a large tip (1/4") and should be thinned with Xylene approximately 10%

So maybe something you want to look into.


Also I like there main page has FJ40s on it

 

Oh rustoleum would definitely be easier. All depends what you want and how much effort you want to out into it really

 

RAPTOR. LINER.

 

I purchased two liters of Raptor Liner black as a kit on Amazon with the spray gun to practice my techniques before over-spraying the entire truck. I removed and sprayed each component of the roof rack, rear air deflector and the front skid plate with the black liner. The items turned out great. I have also purchased 10 liters of tintable Raptor Liner (Amazon with the spray gun for $250) and a quart of PPG factory Pearl Garnet base tint ($121 at FinishMaster). It has been too cold in my shop to spray the red body, so while everything is removed from the roof, I lightly rolled the color matched Raptor Liner on the flat horizontal surface. On the roof I taped along the recessed body contour that runs the length above the doors to make the roll to spray transition less noticeable. This will protect the area under my roof rails and add some hail damage resistance. In preparation for the body and hood spray I have wiped down the entire surface with acetone to remove any wax before scuff sanding. I scuff sanded the entire red surface and wiped down again with acetone. When I spray the sides and hood, I will feather in the texture on the rolled area edges of the roof.
I purchased this vehicle new thirty years ago, and this is a way to freshen it up for this awesome anniversary. It is not a show truck so this durable finish will be great.

 

Would this stick to a bug deflector if I sand it a little?