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Ball joints

Discussion in '2nd Gen 4Runners (1990-1995)' started by D60, Feb 27, 2021.

  1. Feb 27, 2021 at 2:36 PM
    #1
    D60

    #1
    D60 [OP] New Member

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    Recently replaced all 4 front ball joints on a '93 4Runner. Left side went great. Used a pickle fork to pull them out and they popped right out.

    Right side became a multi-hour marathon. Joints would NOT come out no matter what. Finally, applied a ludicrous amount of heat to the lower. Began to hear a "ticking creak" or "creaking tick" and knew that NOW we're cookin' with gas (literally, oxy acetylene LOL).

    Upper was same story but even with heat would not budge. Had to weld 3/8 sq stock to my pickle fork for more "wedge" and finally got it.

    WOW! Don't undertake a BJ R&R in your driveway unless you are ready to commit

    At one point on the lower we were running TWO air hammers - one driving the stud UP and one driving the pickle fork IN. It didn't care - it just laughed at us;)

    20210223_150801.jpg
    20210227_141714.jpg
    20210227_141737.jpg
    20210227_141746.jpg
     
    D60, Feb 27, 2021
    #1
    bthp223 and Toy4X4 like this.
  2. Feb 27, 2021 at 2:39 PM
    #2
    D60

    #2
    D60 [OP] New Member

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    Also the Beck Arnley joints I got seem quite nice. Made in Japan and a cool little purge hole in the rubber boot (pic)

    I got one AC Delco and it's garbage - no zerk and used a nyloc nut (instead of cotter pin) which is a PITA

    20210224_084910.jpg
     
    D60, Feb 27, 2021
    #2
    trlhiker likes this.
  3. Feb 28, 2021 at 5:50 AM
    #3
    bthp223

    #3
    bthp223 New Member

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    Holy shit man...the only easy day was yesterday right !

    I’m thinking about replacing mine with a set of four from LCE, about the last of the front end parts that aren’t new. I hope I don’t have to go through that...bigger hammer and more beer LOL.
     
    bthp223, Feb 28, 2021
    #3
  4. Mar 11, 2021 at 9:33 AM
    #4
    atgparker

    #4
    atgparker Cal Poly, ETME 1988

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    Mission Viejo, CA
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    1991 White 4Runner 3.0 L
    Rebuilt Engine MLS and ARP on the heads, DT Header, 2-1/2" CARB compliant Flow-Master CAT with 2.0" Bosal CAT back Dayco 1-1/4" Spacers, SkyJacker M-Series Monotube Shocks, Ball Joint Spacers. 95-9006 K&N Air Cleaner, G-Plus Alum Radiator, ZIrgo 16" Fan, Derale Temp switch/relay
    Harbor Freight has a tool that is a lever with a integral fork that will drive the balls threaded post out of a forged A-arm's tapered hole.
    I am planning on that getting the job done when the Blazeland arms are installed.
     
    atgparker, Mar 11, 2021
    #4
  5. Mar 11, 2021 at 9:56 AM
    #5
    D60

    #5
    D60 [OP] New Member

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    Which is precisely why I mentioned in Post #1:
    "At one point on the lower we were running TWO air hammers - one driving the stud UP and one driving the pickle fork IN. It didn't care - it just laughed at us"

    I made a basic air hammer attachment with a counterbore for resting on round things like threaded studs to drive them out. We were using that on the end of the stud and wedging a pickle fork in and it made no difference. Two air hammers going. I have one of those cheesy ball joint separators but they tend to only work on less-than-stubborn joints.

    This situation was extreme so in most cases we can hope/assume a ball joint separator will work.
    $62 OTC 6297 Ball Joint Separator
    https://smile.amazon.com/OTC-6297-B...3766a9ddea0&pd_rd_wg=QT7aw&pd_rd_i=B0015PN010
     
    D60, Mar 11, 2021
    #5
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OTC 6297 Ball Joint Separator
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