Alignment specs

If you guys could post up your alignment specs( only If it's perfect) that would be great.

I have a 2.5" lift with jba uca, 285s (38psi)

Reason I'm asking because around town my 4r drives nice. but on the highway cruising it wanders the road.

I'd like to walk into the garage with alignment specs for them to take out all the guess work.

 

Here's mine;
(I don't know if its perfect or not)
ELKA 2.5DC + SPC UCA + Stock TRD ORP wheels + BFG KO2 285.

 

How does it do on the highway?

 

My caster is at 3.9° on both sides, camber and toe are 0. In hindsight, I would have had them give it a slight toe-in. Still, it's great on the highway.

Caster is what helps the most with making want to track straight. I would ask them to get it as high as possible while keeping everything else in spec.

 

I don't have any complaints on mountain highways here in CO. Drives pretty straight and not much steering corrections needed. However with crosswinds on open highways i do feel it alot. I don't feel much of a difference this compared to the other with stock UCA.

 

Ok thanks guys, we don't get on the highway much, but it did seem to wander the road and need alot of correction. Also didn't help I had kayaks on the roof.

I'm going to take more notice when going home.

Also bump steer, seems like on a slightly rough logging roads the steering wheel goes nuts! Not much fun

My plan is to take it back to the shop, and tell them where to put it. The shop has a hunter alignment rack, so the machine can set it perfectly. I just think the techs are still green to toyotas.

 

Thanks bud, these look like solid numbers

 

This is with Eibach 2.0 kit set around 2.5” - 2.75” up front and JBA UCAs. Very impressed w/ how this set up drives.

 

^^ thanks.

After seeing everyone's specs, I wonder were mines at.

So pretty much camber 0, caster 4 +, toe .002-.004

 

I just raised mine 4" which was more than I wanted but rides and drives so well. You probably need more positive caster looking at your specs. It tends to help more at higher speeds on highway with more stability. I'm putting 285s on mine this week and another alignment. I had a little play in passenger inner tie rod at 207k so I'm going to replace all tie rods and be done. Only thing I replaced on my other 4runner in 300k+ was passenger side inner tie rod around 225k. I have a Limited and it's completely different specs. That said they are all pretty close.

 

4" is a lot on these. Do you have any plans to try to prevent CV boot and axle issues? It seems like CV angles are one of the biggest concerns with higher lift.

 

I'm using differential drop. You know it doesn't seem that high when you are adjusting sway bar links. I bought adjustable links but a 2" extended one would probably have been fine.I replaced Xreas and mine drives great and rides even better. I used to work for Toyota years ago and I just rebuild my axles. Rebuild kit is $48 a side from Toyota and I have over 200k and expect some maintenance. I think smart driving preserves axles more. I have seen the videos of WFO with a wheel off the ground and pop. I drive to enjoy the trail and not have to fix anything on Monday. As much as possible. One thing about it, my wheel doesn't drop with a 31mm Limited sway bar attached very much. Limited has biggest front sway bar and it helps handling but not articulation.

 

Put your tire on the yellow or white line on windy days. There's a seam from paving that it usually pulls to because of road crowning for water drainage and you won't have to fight it as much. Especially with big tires. More positive caster might lessen bump steer. I think most alignment specs on the different models are determined by suspension they come with.

 

Actually, KDSS models have the biggest front sway bar. And, they also have the most articulation.

 

I think you are wrong. Limited has biggest front bar. Can't have big sway bar and articulation to. KDSS may have disconnect links for better articulation after shopping for links. Most SR5, Trail have smaller sway bars for better ride off road.

 

My first alignment before tires to see what I had after mods. I had a cam stuck and I needed inner tie rod. I'm replacing this week before last alignment and new tires. Mine has a lot of positive caster and when I get cam unfrozen I want more positive camber so tires are flat on the ground. I can put left wheel on interstate yellow line and I don't have to touch the steering wheel at 75mph it drives itself even with worn out Maypop tires.

 

I'm not. KDSS allows increased articulation due to the hydraulic mounting point on the driver's side, and allows the use of a larger sway bar for reduced body roll.

As far as the Limited vs other trims with the standard sway bar setup, I believe there's a thread around here somewhere that discusses which is larger.

 

If you say so. I don't know much and haven't researched it. $8500 4runner will go everywhere a $50k one will with tires anyway. I am the Pro in mine. Hahaha. I started in Ramchargers 40 years ago. With Atrac everyone has a pro.

 

Agreed. A-TRAC and the locker are the only things that I really need. And, I've been getting by without the locker for a year and a half.

In hindsight, I probably wouldn't get KDSS again, but rather get regular sway bars and figure out a disconnect for the front.

 

I have auto limited slip which is funny because I thought it worked automatically anyway. I guess it depends on what you're doing, but I haven't needed a locker. I turned around in a driveway one day and I started climbing a 2 to 1 slope with slick tires and never spun, never activated AWD. I was impressed. It was so steep my hitch was digging into road backing down. I have to drive mine every day and I can't be destroying stuff like some can. I have to fix it. I assumed I would be changing Xreas anyway so now I have a Limited Trail Ditchmaster edition. Off road models you just get extra terrain select buttons for the same system basically. I used to put a bucket of gravel in my old Dodge truck 2wd and I went places in winter others couldn't. I think any 4runner will basically do same thing. The driver means the most still. Probably won't be long before they won't require a driver.

 

Not sure it's wandering, but my 2011 Limited is very sensitive on the freeway. It's tracks straight but the smallest steering wheel input makes a big change. Makes long freeway driving tiresome. Should I have my caster adjusted for this issue?

 

It should help for hwy

 

Does anyone know if adjusting caster close to 4° that will push the tires forward closer to the liner? I just barely clear the liner as it is now.

 

Yes, but I don't know if fraction of degrees moves it that far. I'm running 4.0 caster which is better for high speed stability. My steering is a bit sensitive at hwy speeds but I'm going to adjust sway bar links again. Mine will drive itself at 70mph on interstate with 33s no problem.

 

Yeah, I would ask for maximum caster. Also, make sure you’re not toeing out.

Is everything stock? It shouldn’t rub if alignment is done within specs.

If you have big tires/aftermarket wheel, it might rub at different alignment specs.

 

Actually my caster is around +5°. Mine feels a little tippy toe if you can understand that at hwy speeds. I have adjustable sway bar links and I did shorten them some to see the differences in preload. I'm impressed with Mickey Thompsons Baja so far. Aggressive, noisy tread, but smooth as silk vibration wise. I was actually going to bring my caster down closer to +3.5-4.0 after I replace a inner tie rod and see if it helps. Positive caster should make it more stable and sensitive and more negative is better for low speed feedback if I remember correctly. I'm going to reduce preload on sway bar and I will know later today if it helps.

 

It doesn't move tire much per say. Positive caster moves bottom of spindle forward and top backwards or +caster rotates bottom of spindle clockwise and negative counterclockwise towards cab. With positive you get a little more deflection in suspension feedback or it's at an slight angle with suspension going up and down. Negative puts feedback in more up and down straight line to strut. Better for trail and bumps. I had frozen adjustment cam is most the reason mine is so high. About all 4runner alignment specs are about the same. Limited is different than everything else, but all are supposed to be around +3.5 caster +/- 0.5°.

 

To much air pressure makes mine wander more also. Sorry didn't mean to ramble to much. I'm just passing on what I have experienced because I'm OCD about alignment and tire wear especially with today's prices. Once you start a bad wear pattern on a tire you can fix alignment but not the tire. I crisscross rotate every other rotation to eliminate high spots and even wear. Especially important on aggressive tread patterns. Sometimes it's just the poor roads and big tires following every groove or bad spot pulling you around.

 

265/70/17 Wildpeaks on ORP wheels on my Limited. It currently rubs the liner just by a fraction at full left while backing up. I plan to push the liner forward anyhow.