6 Relay Switches Wiring question

Hello All
I had a quick question about wiring.
I have 6 relays im installing with 4 ch4x4 switch (6 buttons, 2 single switches and 2 double)

Based on the wiring diagram below - can you see any reason this wouldnt work?

I actually have this all installed in my 4runner. The switches work on the relays - they activate no problem but the LEDs are acting funny.

I just wasnt sure if how i had this setup would be an issue - specifically around the yellow line where i have a add-a-fuse for the tail fuse 10amp which i split and run to the 4 switches that powers on with the running lights.

any input would be appreciated - thanks!!

 

Is there a reason to have multiple 12V+ from the battery?

Normally I'd fuse one larger wire to the relay block the fuse the outputs. I think it looks better than a million wires coming off the battery.

I don't see an issue with the brake light side.

 

Ok that makes sense - i guess in my mind having a unique inline fuse per device would let one fail and others still function in the off chance something trips it.

 

I assume you are referring to the background LEDs in the ch4x4 switches not performing as expected? If so, the switch internals may not function as you assumed. I had a switch once (not sure if from ch4x4 or other supplier, but I expect multiple supplies can source from a single manufacturer) that illuminated the LEDs from the power source (blue wire in your diagram) and the dash light circuit (yellow wire in your diagram) didn't change anything. I took the switch apart and saw both leads connected to the LED which confirmed my experience. I have since switched to AOB single switches and generic ebay dual switches. The LEDs illuminate as you would expect. It may be worth taking one of the switches apart to see how the internal circuit board is laid out. They are pretty simple to disassemble and I believe there is a video somewhere (I'll edit this post if I can quickly find it).

 

Nice i will try that for sure - thanks for the input.
I am mostly expecting the on light to come on when the switch is engaged - and the other lights for the text to turn on when the running lights are on.

 

I used a relay to power the buttons. So an ignition on triggered a relay to turn on my buttons - because some stuff doesn't need a relay but I don't want that amperage to add up on the stock harness.

Per the other comment, I would run one wire from the battery with a big fuse.

Then fuse in line off each relay so those fuses can protect from a short for each accessory like you want. That many wires off the battery will take up too much space and look really bad.

You got any more pics of this? Bought anything yet?

 

If you tap the green and the gray wire from your windshield de-icer harness that will give you backlights that dim with the rest of the dash lights. Green goes to yellow and grey to black

When you say the LEDs are acting funny, what exactly do you mean?

 

I built this harness to keep all 6 organized, only 5 relays installed ATM, the 6th will be a winch contactor but the lines are run for the switch part through the fw

 

Well they came on at first, now some of the switches lights come on and some don't, I'm going to retest all the connections with my volt meter, thanks for the clarification on the dimming wiring maybw I'll switch it over to that

 

looks like you've already don't everything, and the design looks good.

For switched you can grab power from this fuse int he cab. If you use an add-s-fuse, the lid wont close but they sell taller ones that will clear the add-a-fuse.

IMO it's important to have your winch contactor as close to the positive terminal on your battery as possible. Isn't the prettiest, but here's mine, with other fuses for other things. Lot of people do this. Put a bracket on top of the battery for a breaker.