2023 Limited JBL Amp swap build

Howdy buckeroos. It's Camp Walker time again. Here is my Odyssey to beat the Cyclops JBL while keeping my original HU.

I have a 2023 Limited 4Runner with the JBL stereo system. I got an itch to replace my speakers and get my bass a bit more punchy and keep the head unit. Really didn't like the idea of getting a off market HU.

Build List:

• Infinity Reference 3032cf 3.5" Tweeters
• Infinity Reference REF607FSL (shallow mount) 6.5"s (for both rear doors and hatch)
• Infinity Reference REF697F 6"x9"s
• JL Audio 8W3v3-4 8" sub
• $10 Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector for Select Toyota Vehicles, MULTI COLOR
  Metra 72-8104 Speaker Wiring Harnesses (3 sets of 2)
• Audison Forza C8.14 bit amp
• iDatalink Maestro AR2 Amplifier Replacement Module
• iDatalink HRN-AR-TO1 Harness
• Nilite 40A inline resettable fuse
• RCA male to male connectors (7)
• 1/8" ABS moldable plastic sheets 12"x16" (pack of 4)

I'll break this up into pieces so I can get the photos in the right place. Give me a bit to add a few more posts and photos.

 

I first began my plight by starting with the speakers. Remove the entire tweeter and mounting plates first. Then remove the mounting plate from the tweeter after it is loose and in your hand. I read and saw many videos that said if you start with the hardware > tweeter bolts, you may tear your knuckle or dash up as they are snug. I did not need to buy a separate high pass filter as the speakers came with them pre-installed. I did have to cut some of the metal near the windshield on the right tweeter space towards the glass for fitment. Also cut out the plastic cover extrusion that is aimed at the original tweeter. I didn't want the plastic to accidentally rub on the speaker since the speaker go larger. Had to do a little wiring modifications.

 

I next moved to the front door 6"x9"s. Super easy to swap out. No issues. I began adding Silex sound deadening material at this point. I've read strips work just as good as complete coverage so I did my best to get coverage but didn't go too crazy. I cut away the door plastic extrusion that was over the speaker. I did not want the plastic to accidentally rub on the speaker in case it was in a slightly different place. I think I forgot to take a finish shot of the left door.

 

Moved to the rear doors. No issue here. I did the same thing with the Silex and cutting away the plastic. These speakers had a weird 2nd connection for the tweeter component. You can see in the photos where I cut away the secondary speaker connection. I didn't need any of the mounting adapters but showed them in the first shot. Dangit...I only got a shot of the left door completed. Oh well.

 

Rear hatch speakers were interesting. I had to snake the speaker wire through a rubber grommets near the speaker moutn as the connection location is a bit different than the stock one. On the left side I was able to get through the grommet easily but I was lazy on the right side. I bent the steel back a little to minimize any future rubbing. See photo. No issue with getting the speakers to fit.

 

Lastly the sub and the amp. The meat of things. I have a lot to say here but need to run. I'll include photos in the meantime and come back with a narrative to talk through the experience.

 

All of the bits for the AF to AR2 connection. More to come here.

 

I have still to do mine and will try to document it as nicely as you have detailed yours so far. The weather here in NJ is starting to warm up so I can't use that as an excuse anymore.

How does it sound? Looks like a neat/tidy job you've done!

 

I wish I would have gone with the M model for more power but the C model was an open box so I saved some money. I probably don't need that M model anyways. To me the soundstage is much better and the mids are a lot clearer. The base is rich but not too boomy. I'll spend a little time talking about the AF bit software from audison. I probably could have done a little bit better job fine-tuning the system but I'm no expert.

 

Looking great dude. Thanks for documenting and sharing with great pictures. Always nice to see good builds here.

 

So it looks like most of the wiring done in the back by the original AMp area? No need to pull out the OEM headunit?

 

Hi.
The idatalink tech support confirmed we need to wait for an updated firmware to use the Toslink.



I ended up using the RCA cables as well.
In the Audison input configurator, which option did you select?

 

If you take this approach it's all at the amp. It hijacks the connectors and then the AR2 handles talking to the HU.

 

Sorry for taking so long. I have been at a conference. Here is my config file. I think I started with the High Level and not low level setting, then choose L/R option. You only get two inputs from the HU.

Strip out the ".txt" in the file.

 

Few more thoughts....I bought a Yeti Nano mic but I'm sure there are other affordable USB mics. I figured I needed as good of a mic to get the proper input when tuning the sound. Also, if you have molle stuff like I did just pull it all out before you try to work around it. It was so frustrating to deal with it. Also, when you have the side panel pulled out flip it over there are some plastic clips that are screwed in that help holds the storage tray tight. I removed them before I put the panel back in so I could get back in the space if I needed to. I'll try to find a picture if this is confusing.

 

Perfect. Thx