12 volt power for ss3 pods

Is a add a fuse the way to go for 12v power? I like the idea of it. Keeps it a little cleaner. Right now I just have my power source coming off the battery....I was rushed. Installed ditch lights in under two hours while the kids were napping haha.
I'm switching from 2 ss3 pods and going to 4 mounted behind the lower grill. Will I have issues using the add a fuse? Will I have enough amps?
Sorry...I'm a little clueless with wiring. I can make stuff work but honestly dont understand it all that well.
Thanks!

 

It's Friday so here's my thoughts. I don't like the idea of tapping into an existing circuit even if the new circuit has it's own fuse.
Maybe the existing circuit can take the additional load....maybe not.
I would tap directly off the battery with the proper fuse, and use a relay to close the circuit. The relay would be closed by a low power, switch controlled circuit. In your case, the low power circuit could be tapped from the existing light headlight power.

 

If you are talking about wiring directly via add a fuse, then no. You will blow fuses and possibly start a fire. External lighting should be wired with a relay that gives direct power from the battery. If you were in Utah, I’d be more than happy to help.

 

Which ones did you get? Sport? Max?

 

Lights should be direct from the battery.

 

I'll have 4 ss3 pro lights mounted with the stealth mount behind the grill. Im using a diode dynamic wiring harness so it has an inline fuse and relay. Right now I have two of them set up as ditch lights(these 2 will be moved to the stealth mount). I'll use the existing harness for the stealth lights, I just had to order 2 splitters from dd's website. Power off the battery is fine....I just need to cut and splice it so I have some extra wire to hide it a little better....that is if the battery is still the best option. I thought it would be nice to have a keyed power source so I can have the back light on the pods on and they go off if I forget to hit the switch.

 

Firewall time!

 

This is what I'll have...but I'll be using 3" ss3 pods

 

You could wire the back lights with your running lights. The back lights take almost no power and this is safe. .03 amps.

You'll need to run all these off a relay because they take 2.7 amps each. I think that's a pair so you're at 5.4 amps. That's more than the typical 3 amps a switch can take.

Since you need to run this off a relay you might consider something else as well. 2 relays. The first relay is triggered off an ignition on which turns your switch on. So you're switch would do nothing unless the car is on and will turn off with the car.

You can get a 2 in 1 switch in the standard stock slot and can put both the back light and the main lights on their own switch. Leave the back lights weitched on to have them turn on and off eith the car. That's how I have my light bar with back light set up.

 

Interesting.....@Thacrow I'll just pm you...

 

High/Low for my DD fogs


…I gotta reorganize my switches

 

Is that like a rocker switch? Mine is a 2 in 1 but it's two separate buttons on the one switch.
Is that a 3 amp switch?

 

semi-rocker?…kinda different angle design of the switch
Love it
On-off-on SPDT
forget rating
Anytimebackupcamera.com

my fogs/backlight off that, 2 relays, to the blue sea
Use the backlight for a drl/flasher when it’s dark enough/after rain/etc

I wanted full control of fogs without buying a britebox(since I was building a couple fuse panels)
Had a electrical mental meltdown(trucks fine…)

there was a lil hesitancy from a couple involved companies but from the forum n a good friend was able to get them to work independently(even though DD has a built in thingamajig that doesn’t allow backlight/main to be on together)

There’s a diode on the switches pigtail you can, I did, cut to have the indicators not both be on…just high or low

side note:
Might as well run relays…