Getting maybe 5 mpg...haha, help!

So after driving 20 miles I'm down to a little under 3/4's a tank. I feel like she's not running at full power and hesitates...

Other than the mass air flow sensor, what else should I clean, check, or replace?

No check engine light.

 

Did you mess with your spark plugs recently? Perhaps check the gaps on the plugs or all the connections on the ignition wires make sure one isn't loose or broken. Check the connections on the fuel injectors or the injectors themselves to make sure they aren't clogged or just need replaced. Fuel pump could be going bad. Fuel filter could be clogged too. Ignition coil.....honestly it's just a number of things. Pick one and go from there. Might get time consuming and frustrating but it's a great way to get to know your engine too.

 

Would it even run dumping that much gas into the engine? 3/4 tank in 20 miles must be a shit load.

Maybe a leak and not getting the fuel pressure?

 

I've got a lot of maintenance items ordered and will be changing them soon. I'm going to order a new maf since I found an oem for 20 bucks and she is 19 years old...haha

She does seem a bit slow.

 

I mean it could be the MAF, but the MAF cleaner usually would take care of that as long as you didn't sub a different kind of cleaner. What kind of air filter do you have? Though a bad MAF usually triggers an engine light.

I'd start with anything fuel related..filter and pump. Move on to injectors. Could be a simple clog that needs flushed out or a pinched line somewhere.

 

Okay yeah the fuel filter should be here today or tomorrow. And I'll be popping in the new spark plugs and air filter Saturday, I'll do the fuel filter then. Think a can of sea form will do the trick?

Also, does the engine light coming up when the electronics are on (like before you crank the engine) mean anything or is this just a light test? It does not come on during driving or idling.

Also... I'm wondering if the tank floater sensor or whatever could be bad?

 

Well all the lights should come on briefly when you're firing it up. If any of those lights then stay on is when you want to then start checking the error codes. The MAF talks to the onboard computer which can effect idling and the fuel sent to the injectors and such, which could really screw up your gas mileage...but unless you touched the little wire with your finger or cleaned it with brake or carb cleaner I wouldn't focus much time on it. The only time I had issues with a MAF is when I had a K&N filter and I put too much oil back on the filter and it kept coating the wire on the MAF. Finally just replaced the K&N with an OEM and never had issues again.

It's not really related to what your experiencing but bad engine mounts could could cause problems too. If you notice any major clunking as you're going from park, to reverse, to drive...then that could be a sign of bad mounts...which can jar other things lose in the engine bay over time as the whole engine is basically jerking around as you switch gears and accelerate. I have an inclined driveway so my last two vehicles both had the mounts go bad faster than they should have. At least that's what my mechanic had told me. This is why I park backwards now in my driveway so the nose is pointed up in the incline. All the weight of the transmission pushing down on the engine can wear out the mounts over time.

I can't recommend sea foam or other fuel additives. Some people swear by them. In my old Lincoln once a quarter I just run a tank to near empty and then filled it up with premium gasoline and then I'd go do some lead footing to give the injectors a good cleaning. That's how I was taught to clean injectors. Gasoline today usually has the additives already in them so it's really just a matter of preference. It's a subject that can really get people fired up too so just do what you want in regards to that.

Honestly I don't know enough about tank floating sensors to give you any good advice there. Thankfully I've never had any fuel tank related issues before. It might be a good idea to run most of the gas out of your rig before starting on this list of stuff you have to do just in case you had to drop it.

Stick for now with what's on your to do list. Hopefully you'll narrow it down that way. Expand your troubleshooting after that if you're still having issues. Don't get yourself too overwhelmed if you can avoid it...but that's easier said than done if you approach projects like I do.

 

Don’t seafoam it. Put a OEM set of coils, wires, plugs, and filter. Yes the light comes on before ignition. Put new Denso O2’s in it as well...

 

This is the most helpful reply I've ever received online. Thank you man I really appreciate you taking the time to help out!

I've not cleaned the MAF, I was going to but once I found out that I can get the Japanese OEM one for 15-20 bucks I said screw it haha.

Also, she shifts smooth but do you think bad mounts would cause the jerks when going from Park to reverse, drive, etc?

Wires, plugs, and filter are here. Should I go ahead and order ignition coils? And yes I'm going to order the 02's once I found the part numbers.

Thanks for the help as well!!

 

I did, the old ones were trashed...Where did you find a OEM MAF that cheap?

 

If you ever do clean the MAF though....get MAF Cleaner. It's specific for it and it's designed to evaporate fairly quickly so you can put it back in after 15 minutes or so. Some other cleaners are designed to leave residues behind for protective reasons. That's the last thing you want for your MAF.

 

https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/283149185405

Hopefully this is correct. It seems so, but maybe I am wrong? Or perhaps the photos are misleading, as it does say made in Japan.

Edit, okay it looks like th on I found doesn't match the OEM numbers in your photo. Are the numbers from your photo the correct OEM ones? If so I'll cancel my order haha.

Oh yes I have some MAF sensor cleaner, I used it on my Tacoma before.

 

My MAF is one big unit...Just gonna clean it’s never been done. I’m sure I can free up a few ponys by doing it....

 

My original coil part # is 029700-7951. But I could only find non Toyota ones or used but are a lot cheaper. The company said these would work....

 

Yeah I cannot seem to find it. But I think I'll change the things I've ordered and then look at the coils