smkd13's Build Threadamagigger

Well i had to start moving over what I have done to my rig from that other site but here is how she sits currently:



Still have a lot to do to her but it is coming together. I try to keep all this pretty simple and to the point normally. If you have a question on how i did something feel free to ask.



Current Mods:

Engine:

TRD 2nd Gen Supercharger - 05/04/2014 - 151k
URD 7th Injector - 05/04/2014 - 151k
URD 2.1 Pulley - 05/04/2014 - 151k
Denso IK22 Sparks - 05/04/2014 - 151k
TransGo A340-HD2 Shift Kit - 05/14/2014 - 151k
B&M 70268 Trans Cooler - 03/02/13 - 130k
Timing Belt / Water Pump - 11/08/12 - 126k
Air Filter (FRAM CA7626) - 11/25/12 - 127k
Air Filter (Purolator) - 07/26/13 - 138.5k
AmsOil 5w-30 - 04/20/2014 - 151k
PCV - 03/02/13 - 130k
Window Washer Relocate - 03/25/13 - 131k
Fuel Fitler - 08/12/13 - 139.5k
Tank to FF Hardline - 08/12/13 - 139.5k
Thrush Muffler - -


Front Suspension:

ToyTec Boss Coil-overs - 03/02/13 - 130k
TTL Boss Warr Replace - 09/15/2014 - 140k
Light Racing UCAs - 05/12/13 - 133.5k
Left & Right LBJ - 03/02/13 - 130k
Left & Right OTREs - 05/16/13 - 134k
LCA Bushings - 05/14/13 - 133.5k
Removed Front Sway Bar - 03/15/13 - 130k
Syn Diff Oil 75W-90 - 03/24/13 - 131k

Rear Suspension:

ToyTec Superflex Coils - 03/02/13 - 130k
Bilstein 5100 9602R703 shocks - 03/02/13 - 130k
HD Panhard Bar - 03/02/13 - 130k
Rear Sway-bar removal - 03/02/13 - 130k
LockRight Locker (1620-LR) - 03/24/13 - 131k
Syn Diff Fluid - 03/24/13 - 131k
DayStar comp bumps - 04/27/13 - 133k
Diff Breather - 08/12/13 - 139k


Electrical:

Andymod 2.0 - 11/10/12
ABS disable - (to be done)
DRL disable - 03/11/13 - 130k
Blue Sea Aux Box
Floor Lights -
LED Conversion -
LED Turn Signal Mod -

Interior:

Alpine CDA-105 - 11/07/12
Hi-fonix Brutus Sub - 11/13/12 - removed
Hi-Fonix Titan Amp - 11/13/12 - removed
Garmin Nuvi 1300LMT - 11/09/12
Uniden 520XL Pro - 05/01/2014



Exterior:

Savage Off-road Sliders - 04/27/13 - 132k
Plasti-Dip Emblems - 12/27/13
Reinstalled "Flipped" Hitch - 03/31/13
Removed Fender Flares - 04/17/2014
Trimmed 1.5in Front Fenders - 03/15/2014
Painted Trim - in progress
ODL antenna mount - 04/09/13
Modified Rear Bumper - 05/09/13
Front Crossmember and winch plate - 04/02/2014


Lighting:
LED dash lights: 04/15/2013
Zeus Bolt Rock Lights - 03/15/2014


Future Mods:


CBI Custom Rear Tube Bumper
Custom Front Tube Bumper
HD Adjustable Rear LCAs and UCAs
Viair Setup (480C Duals)
Rear Cargo Box w/ Air
Warn M8000 Winch
Ford F-150 Tank swap
Some front and rear lights

 

Decided to relocate my window washer reservoir. Pretty simple mod. Total cose was 8 dollars from autozone. It is a 1.5qt coolant reservoir. Pretty simple process but easy here is a simple write up:

Remove all the hardware. To remove the pumps, I used a flat head screw drive. Don't force them just ease them out. Pull out the grommets from the tank. Make sure you save all they tubing parts. Especially the rubber 90° rubber elbow.



On the side that does not have the locking lip on it. You will cut two holes that are 13/16 in diameter. They will be offset to one side. They place the grommets in. They will fit in there tight and you want them too. (Reference picture for placement)



Next place the pumps in the holes. The fit is tight but some twisting will get them in. They will align like this:




Plug the holes on the pumps and make sure that they don't leak. (If your worried about leaking then use some RTV silicone to seal them. Install the mounting bracket and bent it at the ad to a 90°.

If all is good then we are ready to install. Remove the air box (12mm) and place the reservoir and position it away front the radiator as far as possible while not getting in the way of the headlights. Draw a line on the bracket where it needs to fold over. Take it out and fold along the line to a 90°.

Pull the fluid lines up from where they were before and shorten them so that they are long enough to reach the pumps. The pump that is closest to the air box will use the 90° elbow.

When hooking the pumps up:

The pump with the BIGGER PLUG is the pump for the REAR and connects to the CLEAR LINE

The pump with the SMALLER PLUG is the pump for the FRONT and connects to the BLACK LINE



Plug in the pumps and connectors and route the wires out of the way. Mount the reservoir to the core support with two self tapping screws.

TEST FOR PROPER FUNCTIONALITY!!!!

Reinstall the air box. I zip tied the reservoir to the cross member of the air box to add some support. And now you have a finished reservoir relocation mod.

 

Savage sliders!!! I m happy with them. The welds look good to me. The welds where not cleaned but no big deal to me. The foot plates look slightly small but again with proper welding, this again is a non issue. But here are the picture:





And onto the painting. Setup my own paint booth in my garage.



Primer on:



And first coat of VHT Rollbar & Chassis paint. Matte Black of course!!! Lol



Oh and got my Firestik and coax on Monday. Installed the same day. I will not be using a spring on this one., but I will just have to be mindful of my clearance.

 

This thread pleases Ghost.

 

Oh yeah, after getting high on paint fumes and still having paint on my arms that won't come off, I have the sliders ready to go on. Nice pretty matte black.




Btw if your wondering the feet are not painted. Five days as these b*tches will be mounted

 

Very sexy

 

Ok so sliders it is! Back at the end of April I finally got my sliders. Made my mandatory trip to ID to install them as I have access to two full shops up there. One is a auto shop and the other is basically a fab shop for the most part. As I am anal about everything and like to do all my own work, welding included, I go there. But on to some pictures:

Mounted up and grip taped (grip tape is from home depot, 2” wide, $15, only one roll needed):









Here is what my welding looks like not the best but decent:





Here is a better example of it (done on my buddies frame that we had to patch, mine was the vertical weld in the corner):



I got my new bump stops installed (yes I fab’d the spacers myself):



Uniden Pro520XL is installed w/ 5’ FS and Wilson Coax (SWR = 1.1 on 1 and 40):



Got my Blue Sea Aux Box installed (40 amp maxi fuse soon to be breaker):



Gave the good old girl a treat with some AmsOil and OEM filter of course:





And because I am a cheap ass and don’t see a point to extended brake cables I welded the mounts higher up and bent the tabs, so no more strain on the brake lines at full droop and flex:



I was having a rubbing issue on my rear bumper so I “clearance” it:







After “clearancing” of my bumper, my exhaust stuck our pretty bad so that had to be fixed and this was my best option. Clean and out of the way:

 

I also removed the fender flares as I lost one on the freeway so here you go:









Installed a Thrush Turbo exhaust. It give a little bit of a better sound and no drone, I actually want it to be a little louder though. As well, I am happy with it that it doesn’t hang down as far as the old one:
Finally lost a fender flare on the freeway (it was gonna happened), so those got removed. Gotta find someone with a welder that I can weld up the holes with (the one I have access to is to strong):





I also found out that I had a seized adjustment cam for my alignment. We messed up the bolt trying to break it free and so I tracked down a new one. Got two used ones, a lower control arm and a LBJ for 32 bucks from the salvage yard (trail spare):




My buddy actually had a set of LCAs with new bushings in them that he wasn’t using from his Taco, so we compared them and they are the exact same as a 4Runner. The swaybar location is different but everything else is the same:

Out with the old:



In with the new:



And for all you who are wondering how much of a difference there is in Tacoma and 4Runner LBJs well here is your comparison, the lower stud is the same but the OTRE hole is obviously bigger on the Tacoma:




New OTREs finally:

 

Well, had a very successful week in Moab. Definitely was able to see how capable my rig was. We didn't do really any runs with the TW guys but we where there for a solid week. anyways enough blabbing and more pictures:

We started on Steel Bender (yeah my first trip to Moab was met by this trail)

Airing down to a nice comfortable 15 psi



Next, I experienced the fall:



Obviously made it out of the trail alive after doing every obstacle:



Next up was Metal Masher which was cute short (buddy blew up a R&P and a CV on one bump)


(someday my Runner will grow up and be like that Gray 2000 on 38s)

Did a little leisure day and went out to Picture Frame Arch:



Also found out i ripped the side wall of my DTs (my guess was in Idaho on Lava rock):



Moving on we did Poison Spider (ran both night and day):



A little bit of tire carry lol:



The Waterfall:



Need better approach angle:



And then there was Kane Creek:



Some retard decide it would be cool to take a stock Yukon out there:



Moving on:







Ok yeah so it was a little close (here is my reason for no flares):



Found some water:



My buddy found the deep part of Kane Creek (side note, snorkels dont do anything unless you can seal your doors properly):

 

And onward back to Metal Masher:



Literally walked up this ledge:







Under-cut ledges suck and sometimes you need a little pull to get up them:



Other times you need a large pull lol (kinda high centered myself on my gas tank, time to relocate that anchor):



Last day was Hells Revenge and Fins & Things (yeah do the easy trails at the end):





Hells Gate:



Yep Flex is good:



Escalator:



Tip-Over Challenge:



My buddy almost rolled on Potato Salad (best pic of the whole trip):



And holy moly that is a lot of Toyota right there

 

Ok well here is the write up for the kick panel lights:

What you will need:

~18ga wire Black and Red
~LED of choice (I used these: Little Dot SMD LED)
~Soldering Tools
~Shrink Wrap
~Torch


Basically a good place to start is by getting the switches ready. The switches have a rubber cover on them. There are two bumps, the top one is the button switch and the lower one is the bolt that grounds the switch.

(This is a Ground Interrupt Switch which means that it interrupts the flow of current. This is better because it keeps a potential energy on the load. When the switch makes a connection, because the load already has a potential, this eliminates a current spike.)

Removed the bolt. Then you removed the trim that is on the direct other side of the B pillar. There is a switch there with a small black wire connecting to the larger red wire. Here is what the switches look like.



You have two options. You can either solder to the switch like i chose to do or you can solder to the small black wire. As i did not want to mess with the harness on the car and soldering in the vehicle would suck, I chose the switch. I attached 6 ft of black 18ga wire to the switch.



After the solder cools, slide the shrink wrap on and heat so that it seals the new joint



Next is where it starts to gets more intensive. Remove the kick molding, the door jam molding, and the B pillar molding. Install the switch and route the wire in the channel along the door. Reinstall the bolt.

Next we need to remove the glove box (two screws on the bottom) and the panel under the steering wheel (4 bolts in each corner). I chose to place the LED in these locations (LEDs have sticky tape on the backs of them):




Then you route the wires towards the center console. I chose to run my wires to the central location as there are two sets of lights. I twisted the two black wires together and likewise for the red, then soldered and shrink wrapped them to a 1 ft length of corresponding color.



I pulled a constant positive from my Blue Sea aux box (this can be pulled from the 12V constant on you stereo as well, these lights only pull 20mA). You have to have a constant positive as the lights need to come on when the key is not turned on. Run the wire from the power source to the center console. You will solder and shrink wrap the reds all together and the blacks all together.



I then tucked them all out of the way



If all done correctly you now should have something to this effect:



Hope this is helpful. I will make a thread about this so that it is easier to find it. It will be a little more intensive on pictures and explanation, as well some other wiring options that will make it more functional with the overhead dome light.

 

Went Wheeling with GottaBeTRD (photos curtesy of him as well)

Started off with two spick and span rig:



Got a little dirty



Full stuff and droop



And a little more:




Flexed out the rigs



Tried to go up Wayne's World (didnt make it)



Yep cant go that way



And finally got REALLY DIRTY!!!





Yep, Gadget was there for the whole ride



And got me a new toy (love this damned thing)

 

Nothing really fancy this time just a diff breather and change my fuel filter. Used a piece of tubing to double up a point that will rub, electrical tape and zip ties to hold it on. Plus decided to try out permatex's thread sealer.







Oh yeah was just having some fun up AF Canyon

 

Well not much of an update but just replaced my UBJs and yeah 15k and they are bad is not cool but all well. I must wheel too hard and apparently I had dirt get in with the grease.



Poser for kicks and giggles



And some current welding I did 2G Bevel 3/8" plate 3-pass. Not a fun weld but I got it down



4F 3/8" Lap Single Pass



2F T-Joint 3/8" 1st pass of 3



3pass



Getting better as there where from when I fist started school

 

I did a little bit of painting to give the
runner a little bit of flare. Why did i do this? well it all started with clearancing my front fenders as on full stuff my tires rub. So i took about an inch and a half out of them and then needed to paint them and got a little carried away. I still have the back doors to do though and i am just lazy. But here is some pics:





I added some "White-boy" underglow.



I didn't like the spread on the ground so i made some brackets




And much better



I have been working on a bumper design as i have not liked any of the current offerings but here is what i have come with






I have been working on my flux core welding and yeah it is actually super easy but here is where i am at currently




Last but not least after a long time of waiting for the right deal to pop up it finally did and well i will let the pics do the talking:





A local kid here wanted to go back to stock and offered the swap for stock parts, install labor and $900 (minus a bit off that for some parts that i will be procuring for him) but here is what i got out of the deal:

2nd Gen TRD Supercharger w/ Dynamic Tensioner
URD 7th Injector w/ Walbro 190
URD 2.1 Pulley

I added the following:

New IK22 plugs
Stant 170 deg thermostat
bracket for a 2001 4runner

Having a Transgo shift kit installed next week. I was going to do the IPT but after doing some research, the Transgo A340-HD2 shift kit does the same thing as it reworks the valve springs, adds some shims to the actuators for increased line pressure, and opens the ports to accommodate the added line pressure. The result is an increase in clamping force on the clutch bands and reduces the slip that is involved with the "comfort shift" our transmission have stock. The HD2 kit also adds the ablility to select and hold a gear, for instance lets say it will hold 1st without shifting to 2nd.

All i will have left is to get a high flow cat and some headers. I guess I can actually get a TRD decal now lol

 

Well that was pretty painless for the most part lol

 

Maybe one day this thing will wheel again