Sgt Keebler cargo storage build

Sgt. Keebler's Custom Rear Cargo Area Storage Build:

As requested I created it's own thread so it would be easier to find and refer to and not lost in the what have you done thread. Also I'm not an English major and I know my grammar sucks, if something is confusing, just asked I will try to explain it better. And of course thanks for all the feedback.

Overall estimated cost was under $200.
Estimated build time: Frame 2-3 hours. Complete w/paint: 26-27 hours. The painting took the longest as I let each coat dry 1 hour before the next coat then 20 hours after final coat.

My goal was to build a storage area in the rear cargo area which would be the same height as the back seats folded down to use as sleep/larger platform (if needed) and store tools/items I like to keep inside the vehicle at all times for emergencies (i.e. flares, medkit, straps, jumper cables, knife, rope, recovery gear and tools) while keeping them out of the way and out of view (little bit of OCD don't like cluttered interior). The depth of the storage area is only about 3 3/4" so it does limit what things will fit, but I did not have any issues with my normal kit.

So I already had the rear bumper removed for another project, but it doesn’t need to be removed to build and fit in the custom storage. I removed the molding that holds down the carpet next to the rear hatch (the middle clips are easy, the side clips are a PITA) along with the plastic piece with the D-rings by the seats. Then I pulled out the original carpet and hard foam under padding, I did this to give extra depth (few extra inches helped a lot), to the storage area. I removed the foam from the underside edges of the original carpet and cut off the plastic clips, but left the felt padding in the middle. I then placed the carpet back into the rear compartment to use at the base for the storage, again to help maximize storage space but to help with noise reduction and keep things from sliding around.

For all the joints/connections we used wood glue and screws, unless noted otherwise. For the frame we used a Kreg Jig to make pocket holes for the screws.

Disclaimer: I took all the measurements for this post after the build was completed, not as we went. As always measure twice, cut once.

Then we just measured and cut the frame out of 3/8” Poplar boards. The side boards (run front to back) were cut to 36 1/4” (length) x 2 3/8” (height) they sit on the plastic rails that run along the wheel well (in the picture my dad has the level resting on one).

The center support rail is 36 1/4” (length) x 3” (height) with a 1 1/2” board nailed to the top to make it a T for extra support for the lids (We had to cut the bottom of the board to fit over the metal hump on the floor).

The boards (that run from the driver to passenger side) were cut to 41 3/8” (length) x 3 1/2” (height) and as you can see in the pictures relief cuts were made to make it fit around the seat brackets.

We added another board to divide one of the storage sides into two small sections, which also helped with overall structure support.

I then just used black spray paint on the frame (3 coats of the $0.99 cheap stuff since the wood wasn’t sealed and absorbed a good amount. Between coats I let it sit for about an hour. For the final coat I used good ole Rustoleum spray paint and let it dry for about 20 hours. I also sprayed painted the underside of the lids with just 1 coat of the cheap paint.

For the top I used 1/2” MDF sheets, which were covered in black automotive carpet (I used 3M spray adhesive on the top, sides and underside where the carpet touched the wood, then used 3/8” staples to help hold down the edges).

The fixed top piece, closest to the seats, is 41 ½” (length) x 11” (width) and was screwed down with black screws.

Both lids are 20” (width) x 28” (length) with a 1/2” aluminum U-channel attached (glued and screwed) to the edge of the lid that opens for extra protection. Instead of putting in a handle, the lids just overhang the back edge of the frame by the rear door by about 1/2”-3/4” by the rear hatch to lift them open. Still working on a lid support to keep it open on its own, most likely going to just cut a piece of wood that it can rest on.

On the top there is about a 3/8” gap between fixed top piece and lids to allow for the piano hinge to be mounted underneath and out of the way. This does limit how much the lids can open, but to me it was worth the trade off to keep the piano hinge which would have caused a small bump in the middle out of the way so the top remained smooth.

The storage box does not hinder the back seats from going up or down, but it does limit how far they recline (not a big issue for me since I rarely have people in the back seat). I have also not observed any difference in cabin noise; the box does a good job of blocking the noise just as the hard foam padding did.

I do not know the exact weight, but would estimate 30lbs (+/- 5lbs).


This is the rear cargo area without any carpet/padding. You can see the metal hump and the plastic side rails.


Here my dad as the level on the plastic rails, so we can determine the correct height to make it level with the folded seats.


This is the underside of the carpet after I pulled off the side foam and cut off the plastic clips.


Here is the carpet used as the base of the storage box. I used an extra piece of the carpet I bought to make sure the entire floor was covered.


Test fitting the frame to make sure it fit over the metal hump and around the seat brackets.


This is the frame built and painted with all the extra cuts to make it fit.

This is the top of the storage, I just used black automotive carpet purchased off Amazon (I just searched carpet for subwoofer box)


This is with the storage box installed with the seats in the normal upright position.


This is with the storage box installed with the seats folded flat.


This is with the storage box installed one side up and one side folded.


This is with the storage box installed showing the rear seat can still recline a little bit.


This is my driver side storage compartment, which has a divider.


This is the passenger side storage compartment, does not have divider.


This just shows the slight overhang which is used as the handle to open.

 

you ever look at something and wonder why the hell it doesn't come from the factory like that, cause that's how i'm feeling right now. Awesome job on this, and um...how much with shipping

 

Great write up. Before I was only joking before about the cut-sheet but this is perfect. The only thing I was looking at was the gap between the wheel well and the box. I might need to fill this to avoid dirt and peskie objects falling into it. How long did you have the back end of the rig torn up?

 

Great write up, thanks! An yeah, how much with shipping???

 

Well done!

Thanks for taking the time to post it up in its own thread.

 

I took a week off and knocked out this project as well as pulling off the rear bumper to paint the valance black and pulled off the front end to install a victory 4x4 bumper with winch and light. The storage box could be build and installed in just a few hours if you don't paint it.

My dad brought up the gap between the box and wheel well, but we decided on what I installed. The easier fix to this would just be to extend the top/lids on the sides so they are flush with the wheel well.

 

My dad is a retired engineer for Boeing, on top of being a master craftsman/builder, his help made this project very easy. If I had done this on my own it would not have come out so nice or in a timely manner.

 

Or this area could be used for your future supports. You could have the supports attached to the outside of the top and they slide forward when you open it up. IDK. But again, great job.

 

Fantastic design and even better write up. One question...is it secured to the floor in any way or just stays in place with its own weight?

 

That looks awesome. I didn't see this in the big thread so thanks for the separate thread!

 

It is not bolted in, just being cut to fit exactly in the area holds it in place. I think it weighs 30lbs (+/- 5lbs) which also help keep it in place.

I’ve had in the back for about 1500 miles so far without any issues of it moving/shifting.

 

Nice job and thanks for taking time to share with us…it’s good to see you working with your Dad! … so about what was the total cost?
Looks just like OEM …

 

Correct, no 3rd row. It’s in the back of my 2019 Off Road Premium. I just bought some Blue Ridge Overland bags to better organize especially since the depth is only about 3-1/2”. I’ll post up pics when I get it worked out.

I also have a list of other things left to do and buy:
Roof Rack (like the new Victory 4x4 full)
Rock Sliders (Victory 4x4 blitz w/lights)
Anytime Cameras
Air compressor
Air bags for rear suspension
Rear diff breather extension
Suspension upgrade (thinking bilstein 6112 front and 5100 rear. Just need to figure out springs since I will have about 180-200 lbs even weight and have about an extra 160 lbs with my bumper/winch/light on front.)

 

Different types of flooring materials are available for the flooring of floor of vehicles. Most people like to have carpet flooring. The different types of carpets of a variety of colour, style and patterns are available at discount flooring Sacramento with a deduction on maximum brands. My uncle always purchased flooring materials from this shop.

 

Carpet SUCKS!!! Vinyl flooring FTW! No one likes carpet anymore so you must be trolling!. I haven't liked carpet since the 80's when I was young and most girls I knew had carpet....umm, in their house.

 

Carpets coming back, bro!

 

If you get a chance can you take a photo from the rear passenger door of the junction between the storage box and the back seats folded down? Did this come out flat with a minimal gap?

 

Where did you end up bolting it down? I’m going to start working on mine, but and not sure where a good spot would be to secure it.

 

Dam I must have been drunk typing that...how embarrassing, sorry.

 

Very nice. Now tell again why didn't it come supplied with this type unit!!
Great job

 

I was looking at leveling my cargo floor, and there's a few resources for a platform build but I really like this one with the extra storage you get out of it!

I believe most people have measured the lip at about 2.5" high, then you have some thickness of board on top... so how much depth of storage are you getting? I'm wondering if it's "worth it" vs just doing a simple platform and shoving blankets or whatever underneath...

 

So, I just finished my build based on the original post. Very few changes. Plywood platform with 1/4" carpet padding and black carpet material from O'Reilly's Auto Supply.




Instead of closing off the front end of the platform, I added to covers and I kept the front tie downs. The front area doesn't have a divider in the middle, so long items can be placed here. The tie downs are actually bolted to the OEM supports and the frame.



The seats will fully recline (the carpeting looks bad due to my lack of skill). The back storage areas have a divider that sits on the floor of the rig.

Sgt. Keebler's post was a big help and the lengths worked out very close, so I won't report on those, since you also need to make your own measurements (measure 3 times, cut and redo).

When you remove the carpeting and the foam pad, I cut the OEM carpeting to fit on the bottom of the rig. The left over part I used infront of the small hump (covered in gray pad shown below).

As you can see above I kept the OEM anchor points. Also realize that the front end of the storage area is about 1-inch deeper than the back end of the storage. So here is my lumber list (note you 6-ft lengths are normally the smallest you can buy): I used White Oak since I could get the correct size: 1- 1"x5"x6' (front end), 1- 1x4x6' (back end and center support), 1- 1x3x8' (side rails), 1-1"x2"x6' (center support). Only the center support 1"x4" needs to be ripped down to an actual dimensional width of 2.75". I then used the ripped waste to create a center support for the front covers.


So I will be testing this out next week when I go on my road trip. However, one issue is with the carpet padding I used. Right at the transition between the new platform and the folded down seats there is about a 1/2" drop. But the seats actually slope forward, so I don't know if its a problem.

Thanks Sgt. Keebler for the plans and the idea. I am so tired of throwing my straps, speed wrench, jumper cables and other crap out of the rig every time I need to load the back end.