Oil filter

I am new to the cartridge oil filter like the 4runner has. Is everybody getting the Toyota filter? Or are you going to local auto parts store for non oem ? Thanks

 

I think oem is a good choice.

 

I'd stick with OEM Toyota filters too! You can buy a case of 10 from many on-line parts suppliers for short money.

 

The OEM filters have been shown to be a good quality filter for the price.

 

How are they to change by the way I've never done one. Was thinking about maybe changing it before my free 10,000 change. Used to traditional twist off.

 

OEM filter for me. Here is a good video explaining the oil change

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDWa0gVPDmE

 

God I don't like this cartridge filter idea at all. Why the hell do they do it? Does anyone think this is a better option than a spin on filter?

 

I think its terrible. A way bigger pain in the ass with no benefit in my opinion.

 

It is what it is and only takes a little longer than normal. I have only done it myself once and it wasn't bad and now that I know how to do it, it will be a lot faster next time.

Also the stock cartridge filter has a lot of testing on it and it is a proven system. There is a way to put a remote filter on it if you absolutely need to change it from stock but it does open it up for a possible failure.

Here is the company that makes adapters...

https://www.************** Ok, I don't why this link is not working or what is going on or why the link won't copy, but the company is Baxter Performance-oil filter adapters.... I guess you have to google it, sorry.

An here is an article on filter types. Seems it has a lot to do with environmental concerns.

https://noln.net/2015/05/01/canister-vs-cartridge/

 

The cartridge filter idea is great, if placed in a convenient spot (it's not on the 4Runner).

My wife had a cartridge filter on her Sportwagen Jetta TDI. It was easy to access right under the hood. No mess.

 

I use the Toyota oil filters because of the filter media . it would be much less of a mess with a metal can .. but this is a design so that it reduces pollution on the recycling of this product.

I have cut open metal filters to check the media and the amount of debris in them . these OEM filters do look good .
also less cost buy a pack of 5 or 10 ...also include the drain washer ..

 

Totally agree and wish I knew that when buying the thing. OK I didn't catch it my bad but who thinks to ask about the frigin oil filter? I'm not changing it myself, remove the skid plate, f with the canister, nope not me my local garage it is. Not saying I wouldn't of bought it but just aggravating. Is any vehicle out there to difficult to engineer to make an easy access oil filter?

 

Hilarious! It takes about ten minutes longer to change the cartridge filter than it does a regular filter and most of that time is just waiting for the filter to drain out. Then you unscrew the filter assembly just like you would a "normal" oil filter. Replace the filter, put it back on the vehicle, again, like a "normal" filter, and then done. It's very easy and takes one time doing it to realize that.

 

My 2004 6.0 Superduty has two cartridge filters on top and that’s not so bad!

Might get the adapter and the drain valve and a skid plate with filter access!

 

Not nearly as easy as a cartridge and you have to buy a specific filter wrench to change it. Pia

 

Buying the filter wrench is no different than buying a filter wrench for any given vehicles size filter. I bought mine at Orielly's for $10.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...er-wrench/19906/4610121?q=filter+wrench&pos=1

 

I have used the TRD oil filters (PTR43-00079). They are a more solid filter with metal (zinc I think) end caps and center tube. I also like the filter media of the TRD versus standard. They are around $20 per filter but in my opinion only worth the extra $15 for piece of mind that it is protecting the life blood of the engine.

 

Question for all, I saw this video once and read other instructions about changing the filter and oil. I see the Overland video guy reinstalls the oil filter housing to the engine block he does the housing then the nut with o-ring. Do you need to do this order or is it okay to first install the flat nut / o-ring then the oil cartridge and housing to the block? Just curious your thoughts. I do the flat nut first then the cartridge.

 

I'm not sure if it matters or not but when I did it, I did it the way he does it in that video. I do know the filter moves up and down while it is out of the truck. So I wanted the filter seated completely in the filter housing before I put the other o-ring on and then the flat nut just in case that made a difference how that last o-ring seats.

 

I drain the oil pan .. with all the covers off. then I unscrew the filter cap with the motivx socket .. I never removed the oil filter drain plug . reason not is I slowly unscrew the filter housing cap and let the oil slowly drain then take it off and remove old filter.. clean up the inside of the filter housing and install the new O ring with oil and install oil filter then screw the cap on till the cap gets snug and it lines up with the tab. also the cap ridge lines up with the housing so it is on it ..then remove the pan drain plug Again and more pan oil drains out until its not dripping then put on new plug seal and torque to 15ft lbs like spark plug torque . I do it this way like a GM type oil change . less mess with that drain plug on the oil filter.

the oil in that runner is very nasty IMO .. never seen that on my vehicles .. I am sure he has no problem reading the dip stick LOL..

also put some anti seize on the pan bolts and keep the covers off for a day or so and crawl under to check for any leaks ..
also do the rust check on welds ..lower control arms can get rusted nasty ..

 

I'm surprised you don't fluid film being in Mass @j cat. No issues with rust if you did.

 

Seriously I’m in KY and fluid film religiously.

 

Especially considering it's just about the same thing as changing a spin on filter except for the draining of the oil from the filter cartridge step.

 

And the Skid plate.....

Hey my local mechanic has to eat also and I don't mind contributing to the cause. No, it isn't a huge deal I'm just "somewhere" in life I prefer not bothering with the tools, crawling under the vehicle, recycling the oil, etc,etc... I can reward myself and let someone else handle it. Ah the little things in life! In two weeks it's getting detailed also.

 

Ha i think it sucks especially coming from a 2nd gen Tacoma. Now that is a nice , easy only change.

 

the rust is on the welds . paint falls off the weld . so I do a small wire brush and apply the galv paint then after a day or so apply the black performance paint.
years ago I did drive in nasty weather with my GM truck . but now I do not drive in the road mess when the snow hits . so I am very happy with the little rust I have to deal with . toyota did a much better job on the under body paint work.. frame should have had a thicker application .. lower control arms I have seen are not looking good on pictures posted on the forums .

on some 3rd gen runners they had to replace those control arms.