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Which vacuum line for Sea Foam?

Discussion in '2nd Gen 4Runners (1990-1995)' started by NMRunner, Feb 22, 2019.

  1. Feb 22, 2019 at 4:54 AM
    #1
    NMRunner

    NMRunner [OP] New Member

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    I was wondering if anybody know which vacuum line to put seafoam in?
     
  2. Feb 22, 2019 at 8:05 AM
    #2
    Sruskz

    Sruskz New Member

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    I am unaware but there is a video of a guy doing it on his 93 4 runner on youtube.
     
    NMRunner[OP] likes this.
  3. Feb 22, 2019 at 9:52 AM
    #3
    Linuxr

    Linuxr New Member

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    I used to use seafoam on my Nissan Maxima and used the brake booster line.
     
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  4. Feb 22, 2019 at 9:09 PM
    #4
    NMRunner

    NMRunner [OP] New Member

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    Any chance you have a link I looked but couldn’t find it?
     
  5. Feb 23, 2019 at 4:36 AM
    #5
    WanderlostOverland

    WanderlostOverland New Member

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    We produced a video showing how we did it to our FJ. I believe our 4R has the same vacuum port. It comes in at 1:30.
    Just be sure to put it in VERY slowly, just a few drops at a time or you risk damaging the pistons and/or valves.
    https://youtu.be/49EODA5VYJY
     
    NMRunner[OP] likes this.
  6. Feb 23, 2019 at 5:24 AM
    #6
    HoBoDanny

    HoBoDanny Dude...

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    RCI Skid Plate CBI Ditch Light Brackets Hankook DynaPro ATM RF10 265 70R17 113T Tires 1.25” Wheel Spacers TPMS Bypass Mod Hydrocarbon Filter Removed Merca decal 2” leveling kit front only Black headlights
    Things I’ve seen in posts and videos most commonly show using the brake booster line.
     
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  7. Feb 23, 2019 at 5:29 AM
    #7
    NMRunner

    NMRunner [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for the video!
     
  8. Feb 23, 2019 at 5:40 AM
    #8
    NMRunner

    NMRunner [OP] New Member

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    That’s what I have also. I guess that’s the one thanks for the response.
     
    HoBoDanny[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. Feb 25, 2019 at 2:24 PM
    #9
    atgparker

    atgparker Cal Poly, ETME 1988

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    Mission Viejo, CA
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    1991 White 4Runner 3.0 L
    Rebuilt Engine MLS and ARP on the heads, DT Header, 2-1/2" CARB compliant Flow-Master CAT with 2.0" Bosal CAT back Dayco 1-1/4" Spacers, SkyJacker M-Series Monotube Shocks, Ball Joint Spacers. 95-9006 K&N Air Cleaner, G-Plus Alum Radiator, ZIrgo 16" Fan, Derale Temp switch/relay
    Spend your money on frequent oil changes and let the detergents in the oil do their job. These products are a joke. I owned an 1982 4X4 with a 22R which was pre-OBDI. I changed the oil & filter every 2.5 K miles for 16 years. I ran a Hayden oil cooler with remote filter, a Doug Thorley Tri-Y-header, and the Downey Off-road dual side draft Mikuni's and muscle CAM kit for a time during college (2 years of the 16 I ran this truck that way). In doing all this the inside of that engine was as clean as the day I bought it from the Toyota dealer in Poway, CA. I did a valve job on it at 120K but it probably didn't need it and put over 200K on it. I still have that engine and head on hand in my garage but had given the truck to a family member with a new LC motor in it, with some regret now as I find myself back in a Toyota again. The trick is to get all that combustion bypassed gas out of your oil. Long drain interval synthetics are counter productive to that end so don't waste your money on them either! After 30 or 40 K miles your rings are passing more combustion gas blow-by. Go figure!
     
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  10. Feb 25, 2019 at 4:28 PM
    #10
    NMRunner

    NMRunner [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for you input
     

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