Eibach PRO TRUCK Sport leveling shock initial review...

Eibach PRO TRUCK Sport leveling shock initial review...


After count less hours of doing research I decided to go with Eibach shocks. I just had them installed so this will not be extensive, I plan to add more info as the miles add up.


Truck back ground and use...

Truck: They are being installed on a 2017 SR5 4x4 with NO third row seat that has approximately 32000 miles. And I am using these with the stock coils.

The current tires are Michelin LTX Defenders 265/70r17 that I keep at 34 PSI.


Use: This is my daily driver, the family car, and my toy hauler (ATVs-1k to 3k trailer weight about 6 times a year).


Why I got new shocks on such a new vehicle...


After driving on stock shocks for 30k I realized that on smoother roads stock is great. But on rougher highways my truck gets squirmy and spongy. My commute consists of NYC driving and lots of miles. So I wanted a firmer but comfortable ride that gives more stability. Additionally I wanted to remove some rack and not go over 1 inch of lift in the front.


Why I didn’t go with 5100’s...

First I want to start off with saying the Bilstein makes excellent products and I don’t mean to belittle their product in any way. I have used 5100’s on my Tacoma’s and though they rode good but never liked how stiff the small bump sensitivity or initial impact was...especially when I put in aftermarket coils in. After two very long calls to Eibach and a few to Wheelers Offroad (these guys are great...knowledgeable and honest) I learned that Eibach valving addressed my biggest complaint with the 5100’s. Eibach allows for a softer initial feel... I did have the opportunity to test, literally the almost same exact truck as mine that had the 5100’s set at .85 (same setting I am at) and it rode very good. Quite honestly I was surprised because they seemed much nicer in the 4Runner than Tacoma.


Now to the ride...

I am amazed at how much of a difference these shocks made. The handling and unsteadiness of the stock shocks are gone. On the highway and while turning I felt less side to side sway. They are firmer but highly composed. Meaning they suck up the big road imperfections smoothly but you “feel” the road more. Well worth the trade off for me...having ridden in both 4Runners Eibach is a better choice for ride quality IMHO. I hope this is helpful to someone that was on the fence like me...and I will keep everyone updated if interested.

 

Thanks for the review

 

Awesome!

Glad to hear you're happy with them Oey.

Tell me how the rear shocks feel (mine are still stock).

For those on the fence, I can 100% confirm that the front adjustable shocks ride really nice both on and offroad.

 

I love them because they give a balanced feel. When I accelerate I notice less rear end squat. After I got home I jumped on the hitch a few times and it held the weight up much better than stock which honestly I though was more the coils job (I am by no means a suspension expert). And speaking of stock coils after changing the shocks I feel they do a good job...I am starting to believe the shocks are too soft and not the coils.

 

My pro kit should be delivered next week. Not sure when I will be able to wrench them in my schedule. (Sad panda)

 

I have heard many good things about those coils in the kit. Michelin’s look great with the .80 but anything higher they would too small. I debate getting that kit. Regarding the install I only paid 300 and the guy had it done in just under 4 hours. If I did it myself I would have been out there for two days...

 

I'm planning on it taking an afternoon for shocks, springs and upper control arms. Harder part is finding a good alignment mech. After that I will most likely go 255 75 17 BFG's.

 

Thanks alot for the review, I have my eye on these as well,
My experience with Bilstiens on my JK is not great, very rough ride.
I read that being an issue with them on the 4runner also. I LOVE the way my 4Runner sucks up potholes compared to my 2011 Tacoma that I traded in.
I do feel the 4Runner is sloshy though, wouldnt mind getting rid of that, BUT, I dont want to ruin the soft ride as far as sucking up potholes.
But, from what you are saying, it seems like it will be a worth upgrade.
I plan on getting the full kit with coils, since I will be adding a bumper, winch, and rock rails.

 

Excellent! Glad you found my ramblings of some use... I know what you mean about the Tacoma suspension. I was a diehard Tacoma lover (will always love them especially my first gen's) and have owned 3 over the years. My 2nd gen 2012 TRD sport double cab short bed rode very rough. The front was composed and smooth but the rear end on that thing was all over the place on rough roads and highways. Outside of rougher roads the stock suspension wasn't bad but for a DD the 4Runner is much better. I was very concerned about switching the shocks in the 4Runner because I didn't want it to feel anything like that. I can say for a fact it doesn't feel anything like that...tomorrow I will being going into NYC and I will post how they do there. In my opinion if you really want to test a trucks suspension ability, drive a circuit on the Crossbronx Highway, the FDR drive, and the Brooklyn Queens Expressway and you will see what it can handle at speed.

 

One thing I'll add to this thread is that I think some will have the impression that by improving the on-road handling with Eibach shocks, somehow you have sacrificed offroad capabilities compared to say a Bilstein 5100.

This isn't the case with this particular shock, IMO. Eibach and Bilstein 5100's are both digressive shocks and will perform similarly offroad at higher speeds. The difference is at slower speeds where the Eibachs are a little more forgiving, like a progressive shock.

The reason for this is that Eibach builds their shocks using a bleeder valve early in the travel. This helps to soften the shocks initial response to road bumps giving it a smoother overall ride without that jolt you would get from a stiffer shock.

As you get further along through the travel of the shock, it stiffens up to handle bigger bumps but does not feel bouncy. The ride is still very positive and controlled on faster dirt trails.

All in all, I think it's a very well designed shock for someone who uses their 4runner as an on-road daily driver, but likes to offroad on the weekends.

 

After 500 or so miles of city and highway driving I can say that I love how these shocks have made my truck better. Even my wife commented last week that she doesn't understand why I like customizing my trucks but she said it rides much better over potholes and rough roads and it general much better. I have been told shocks don't need a break in period but I have noticed they have gotten slightly smoother over the last few weeks. Simply put I have zero regrets for swapping out practically new suspension and again no disrespect to Bilstein but these are much better than the 5100's (on the 4Runner) due to their valving. Eibach nailed it in my opinion for that price range... The one thing I will comment slightly negatively about is the noise that the front shocks make when the temps dropped below 10 degrees. They have an audible "thumping" noise in the front over large bumps however with that said at those temperatures everything on a vehicle becomes nosier. And FYI tell the mechanic or take personal note that the wheel speed sensor harness is highly prone to over strenching causing it to disable the ABS/traction control/4X4...ask me how I know especially after getting tackling two ice/snow storms.

 

Did your abs wire stretch from flex or install?

 

My shocks have definitely felt better over time as well.

Haven't had the ABS/Trac/4x4 issue. I installed my own and was careful not to stretch them out by supporting the front rotors with blocks so they would not droop too far.

 

According to Toyota definitely install...the tech said there was more than enough room for flex. I initially had the same question as you.

 

Here’s a little eye candy...She’s salty! I know it’s not a great picture but There definitely is still a noticeable amount of rake but it looks much better. Also keep in mind the Firestone Airbags gave me about a 1/2 of lift in the rear at about 8 PSI (in picture it’s at 8 and it has a full tank of gas). I had it parked next to my step fathers TRD Offroad and you can see a significant difference. Pictures on the net just don’t do the .80 setting justice and many have made the truck look dead level...not mine. I could have went to the next setting.

 

Looks good!

I'm at the 1.6" setting in front and stock height in the rear and it's really close to level. If anything there is a very slight factory rake.

Just what I was looking for.

 

Very good and valuable information. Thanks.

 

Installed it yestetday, put about 200 miles on it and have zero complaints. It rides firm, but not harsh. Feels like a truck and not a station wagon. And the best is i can go over speed bumps and stop at lights without needing Dramamine.

 

I just back from Vermont and I was able to hit some poorly paved and plowed fire roads. The shocks were stellar (low and high speed) and I didn't even get close to bottoming out the suspension. They just sucked up all the holes keeping the truck very stable.

 

Put the kit on mine over 5000 miles ago and I can’t wait between rides it’s really a blast to drive after this mod!

 

Of course the rain started, so pics are dark. Shiny new parts. There's a one inch rake to the front and lots of room for the 265 70's. Slight lean to the rear driver side, I will see if it settles and correct it in the future. Tire shop did a good job on the alignment. Very happy with it.

 

Looks great! Those 265/70’s don’t look as tiny as I thought they would.

 

Hi Oey12
this post started with 'After countless hours of doing research I decided to go with Eibach shocks.'
Please confirm :
1. these are front shocks only (stock springs)
2. there are no other springs/ parts required
3. the exact part# used.
4. approx. install time (and any tricky tools/procedures)

thanks very much

 

No problem...

1. Yes you can choose to do front shocks only...but I did rear as well. I reused my stock springs (Front and rear).

2. No...I ended up purchasing them from Wheelers Offroad and they told me all necessary bushings were included (they were) but I would double with other vendors.

3. Front: E60-82-071-02-10
Rear: E60-82-008-02-01

4. No idea...I went to a mechanic who charged me 300 bucks for front and rear.

Honestly I would do the rear shocks as well because they made a noticeable difference in the rear especially on my SR5. Absolutely love them especially now that they are broken in. Good Luck!!

 

Excellent! thanks very much.

 

I can answer #4.

It only takes 2-3 hours to complete. No crazy tools needed if you do the non-spring compressor method. You just need to know to jack the front end up high enough so you can press down on the lower control arm with room to remove the coil. These videos are for a Tacoma, but the process is almost identical for the 4Runner. The only thing they don't show you is that you will have to disconnect the sway bar bolts first and then reconnect them last.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/5E6u7dC7EHg

https://www.youtube.com/embed/jo0FJSi-KYs

 

Let me also add that once you disconnect the LCA from the rotor/spindle assembly, you want to prop the rotor/spindle assembly up with blocks so that it doesn't drop too far and stretch your ABS sensor lines. Just be mindful of that.

 

thanks nimby (especially the point about ABS lines .
just to confirm:
1. this whole process is (relatively easily) doable without spring-compressors and pneumatic tools as long as one has a decent jack/stands and hand sockets?
2. there is no need for adjustments / shims on carrier bearings and back leafs (Tacoma)?
3. wheel alignment is required?
4. no need to drop diff or skid plates if one doesn't exceed 2.5" in the front?

thanks again.

 

Yes, that is all correct.

1. You won't need any specialized tools for this job. The one thing I did use a little out of the norm was the jack handle. I used it as a wedge between the spindle and the lower control arm so that I could push the LCA down even further to release the strut assembly.
2. No need for any of that stuff since our rear ends are lifted by coils. If you want to lift the rear end of your truck, you will need a taller coil or a spacer. There is no strut assembly on the rear end so lifting is a bit easier.
3. Yes, alignment will be necessary afterwards even if it feels like it's riding and steering straight. It will still most likely be out of spec. Probably best to get a lifetime alignment. Well worth it in the long run.
4. Yeah, no need for any of that.

There are more videos on the subject that you can search for. Some say this method is dangerous.......I don't think that's true. I think renting a coil compressor from Auto Zone and trying to compress the coils yourself is a much more dangerous operation. Just take it slow and be diligent with following the steps of the process. It's pretty easy.