Blackoutt's 2007 Limited V8 Adventure Build Thread

My build post with Amazon affiliate links to many of the parts used is now located on my website 2007-toyota-4runner-v8-overland-build-list

December 30th 2014 I purchased a 4th gen, almost stock except for some lighting mods, very well maintained for a northern vehicle, with 86k miles. 2007 Limited V8. Due to laziness and a phone SD card dying losing all my pictures of the early parts of the build I've put off this build thread until now - it's more a "built thread". Since these things are never done I'll attempt to document a comprehensive list of where I'm at right now and update it as I go. This will give me a place to point people with questions, share some of my travels, and keep it organized for myself at a later date. Onto the pictures and lists.....

Latest Update Sold September 11, 2019, thanks Aaron, enjoy!

July 2019: Rolled 172,000 miles in our 48th state together!
Current pic April 2019:



Current pic as of August 2018:


*This post may contain affiliate links, meaning that I receive a small commission at no extra cost to you when you make a purchase through these links. Thank you!*
Suspension/Lift

Fox 2.5 extended front coilovers, remote reservoir with DSC
Fox 2.0 10" travel rear shocks, w/ required Fox lower bushing
Icon SS shock skids/roost guards
Dobinson 677V rear springs (1.5" daystar driver side spacer to correct lean)
SPC upper control arms (warrantied for greasable style BJ)
Wheelers super bumps front
Wheelers super bumps on custom 2" drop bracket rear
Differential drop
SS extended brake lines
Energy suspension sway bar bushings, lateral lock collars
Diff breather extended to gas filler
1" body lift
DIY taller EPDM fender liners
OEM LCA hardware
Weld bead behind LCA cam tabs
OEM front LCA with Moog greasable BJ and Energy suspension bushings
OEM rear control arms refit with Energy suspension bushings
Toytec adjustable panhard bar
XD 301 17x9 -12 wheels
Cooper STT Pro 295/70-17
Body mount chop, pinch weld flattened, liners pushed forward, bumpers trimmed, mudflaps removed

Exterior/Armor
Frame wire wheeled, acid washed, and painted with Chassis saver
Debadge hatch and plastidip Toyota emblems
Window Ventshades
Prinsu full roof rack
Shorter roof rack spacers
Metaltech rear lower link skids (weld on)
White Knuckle Offroad Products sliders, DOM, bolt on, flat, with kick out and step plate
Rocksteady alum front skid
Rocksteady alum trans skid
Rocksteady alum front bumper filler plate
Stock gas tank skid has been hammered out a few times but still kickin!

Camping/Interior/Misc.
Husky floor liners
Carhartt seat covers
Dash RAM mount (B and C ball)
Anytime backup camera switch
Traction aids off CH4x4 "pirate" button
Removed rear seat flip down TV
Center console organizer
Blue Sea dual USB charger in center console
Blue Sea dual USB charger rear
Replacement leather seat bottoms
Rear hatch LED lights wired to cargo switch
Flush mount rear dome LED lights
Adventure Index drawer system (diy)
Partner Steel 22" stove
Sleeping platform off of drawer system
Rear seat and double decker system delete
Custom sewn blackoutt curtains
Universal fit window bug netting
USB fans
DFG tilting fridge slide
Dometic CFX40W with bag
ARB fridge plug socket
LED light strip on back of drawers
2x 1.75 Rotopax with locking mounts
Kelty Noahs tarp 16
ARB 2000 awning, custom mounts
Awning wireless motion lights

Recovery/Tools/Comms
ARB twin air compressor on custom mount
AstroAl Digital tire inflator
Double biting air chuck for inflator
Coyote Enterprises tire deflators (20psi)
ARB EZ deflator
Amerex Halotron Fire Extinguisher
Bracketeer Extinguisher Mount on drivers seat
TRED Pro
Hi Lift jack, handle isolator, off road base, neoprene cover
Receiver shackle with Anti-Rattle clamp
DitchPig Kinetic Rope
Tree Savers
Bubbarope soft shackle
Cheap soft shackle
Plano 42" case roof mounted for dirty/wet storage
Baofeng UV-5R5 Ham radio
Baofeng UV-5R Ham radio
Baofeng accessories: Remote 2-way speaker/handle, 12v power adapter, upgraded antenna, programming cord
Handheld Midland CB radio
Antigravity XP-10 lithium battery jumper (buy direct from their website to avoid fakes on Amazon)
Wi-Fi OBD2 reader and torque lite app
Cheap Techstream cable

Power
Off Grid Engineering aux battery tray
Off Grid Engineering starter battery tie down
2x Odyssey Batteries 34R-PC1500T aux and starting battery
Starting battery spacer
GM OEM part# 12135037 alt-s diode to increase charging voltage
Dual battery voltage monitor in center console
Blue Sea SI ACR
Blue Sea fuse panel on back of drawers
Renogy 100W Eclipse solar panel
Chinese "waterproof" MPPT charge controller
Solar controller setting remote
WeBoost Drivesleek Cell Booster

Lighting
LED interior lights
Map light mod
LED step bar/rock lights
LED license plate lights
Anytime fog light mod
HID fog lights
Yellow fog light laminex
Mojavemadman bumper light bar mounts
30" Auxbeam curved light bar
Rear bumper work lights
CBI ditch light brackets
Auxbeam pods with amber covers
CH4x4 OEM look switches
Eagle Eyes Sport headlight housings with G5-R retrofit
42" Xprite sunrise light bar
TINman 3d printed sunglass holder switch plate

Engine
HCF delete
Flowmaster super 50 SUV muffler
Resonator delete, side exit
Doug Thorley headers, 2.5" catless downpipes
Doug Thorley Y pipe
URD O2 sensor simulator
AFE prodry air filter
Smooth intake tube
Slyfox AIP bypass kit
Fumoto oil drain valve
Fumoto drain hose kit

Maintenance
Various dash bulbs
Moog tie rods (removed 50k miles later)
OEM tie rods
Moog sway bar links (removed 50k miles later)
OEM sway bar links
Empi inner CV boots (removed 40k miles later)
Worm drive CV clamps pulled down
OEM inner CV boots
OEM front calipers
Powerstop slotted rotors and pads
Rear powerstop pads again 50k later
Denso alternator @80k
F&R Diff flush
Trans filter and fluid exchange
PS fluid flush
Transfer case flush
Timing belt @90k
OEM waterpump @100k
Front wheel hub assemblies and seals @90k
Front body bushings (Febest)
PCV valve
NGK spark plugs
Koyo radiator and new hoses
left and right diff seals
OEM accessory belt and tensioners
OEM gas cap
Reman coated rear calipers @165k
New front and rear powerstop pads @165k
Diffs and Tcase oil again at @165k

Removed
Bilstein 5100 shocks front and rear - sold
FJ springs front and rear - sold
Stock limited wheels/tires and All Pro 1.25 and 1.5 wheel spacers - sold
Stock step bars and roof rack
Icon 2" rear springs - sold
Dobinson 675V rear springs - sold
Firestone rear air bags with link switch - sold
Rear sway bar - reinstalled
Customish extended rear sway bar links - reinstalled
5k HID headlights in stock halogen projector housings
Moog LCA bushings (junk)
Mevotech complete LCA (spares)
Nitto Exo Grappler 285/70-17 (lasted 40k)
Fox 2.0 for 2-3" lift rear, remote reservoir with adjuster - sold
Modded MV-50 compressor
Diode in alt-s fuse from ebay, still worked just wanted a cleaner install with the OEM GM diode



Trips
Summer 2016 - Colorado Trip: Four Corners, Durango, Alpine Loop, Clear Lake, Ice Lakes hike, Pikes Peak, Coors Brewery tour, Boulder.
Summer 2017 - Northeast Trip: NY, VT, NH Class 6 roads, Mt. Washington Auto road, Maine logging territory, Moose!, Hunt Trail/Mt. Katahdin/Baxter State park hiking, Seafood, MA, RI, CT, NJ (yuck).
Summer 2018 - Idaho Trip: Wall Drug, Mount Rushmore, Wyoming, Idaho Falls (surprise we're married!), Jarbidge Nevada to Missoula Montana on the IDBDR with some alternate loops, first confirmed 4x4 through Magruder Corridor 2018, Glacier National Park
Winter 2018 - CaliForChristmas Trip: Moab (top of the world), Utah NP's, Horseshoe Bend, Grand Canyon, Mojave Road, Las Vegas, Death Valley, Pismo Beach, Redwood NP, Portland, Crater Lake, Seattle.
Spring/Summer/Fall 2019 - Alabama to Florida Ponce De Leon state park and Apalachicola NF, GA Traverse part 1. UP Michigan - LP round trip, Last of the 48 crossed off roadtrip, GA Traverse part 2?

Weekend Warrior Trips: Land Between the Lakes KY, Kentucky Adventure Tour (KAT), Red River Gorge area KY/Daniel Boone Backcountry Byway (DBBB), Uwharrie, Redbird Crest trail system, Finger Lakes NY, Fort Fisher NC, Hoosier National Forest



Day 1 December 2014 to December 2015



December 2015 to December 2016



States that the 4Funner has been to with me: Completed the connected 48 July 2019

 

Drawer system/storage/sleeping platform/camp kitchen evolution:

Our first camping setup was built in a couple hours for $26 in hardware and some spare lumber I had laying around the garage. The height of it was driven by a Pelican 60 cooler (that I found 50% off at wally world one day and couldn't pass up) sitting where the rear seats were taken out leaving not much headroom. It worked for two years and a few big trips but I saw some other's setups on a group trip and got to dreaming...


Building the new "Adventure Index" (free drawer plans and parts lists from Adam here!) drawer system spring of 2018. It's shorter, much less wasted space, and easier to access all areas! This was considerably more expensive to build and took about 40 man hours BUT it's been a camping game changer. Easy set up and tear down all self contained, and as anyone camping knows flat space is at a premium, this solves all those issues.



Complete with tilting fridge slide from DFG. This was a decent product out of the box but the rivets started to loosen after some trail miles. I took it apart and had a friend weld up some key areas, while replacing the locking mechanism attachment with bolts, and applying some small d-shaped weather strip to keep it quiet when locked in place.

 

Good looking rig!

 

Wanted to also share my custom rear bump stop drop brackets for the rear wheelers superbumps. I love them in the front but realized I was no where near touching the stock bumps or wheelers if I just added their rear kit so I saved a couple bucks and made some. 2"x3" tube fits well in the space, offset the bump about 1/2" rearward to center on the axle. I might need to add some small shims later on to keep tire out of the body work that I dont trim but hopefully this is all the uptravel I need to give up.

 

Edit 4_12_2021:
I've revised some of my views on dual battery wiring and made a much more in depth write up on my website at THE ULTIMATE DIY OVERLAND DUAL BATTERY SYSTEM WITH SOLAR – SIMPLE, CHEAP, AND EFFECTIVE.
Any questions or comments please let me know!


To expand on my "Power" section above, I've gotten multiple questions about how I laid out my dual battery setup and why. Here's an all inclusive list and description of what I chose and how it fits together. The goal of the system was cheap and effective. Had I known I wanted to add solar later on I would have forgone all of this for a more expensive DC-DC system with integrated solar charge controller BUT this fits my needs well at a cheaper entry price and is plenty expandable.


I'll start with the required parts that can vary by vehicle model or your power needs:

Off Grid Engineering aux battery tray - Although expensive, the cheapest bolt in option for passenger side fenderwell near firewall for 4th gen 4runner. Very well made and very strong!
Off Grid Engineering starter battery tie down - Bling piece to replace the factory corroded stamped part and match the passenger side, totally not required.
2x Odyssey Batteries 34R-PC1500T aux and starting battery. I wanted the largest I could fit, ~67 amp hrs, matching, AGM. If I were to do it again I'd avoid the AGM charging headache and get two silver or gold level autoparts store batteries, cheaper, readily available, and warranty in store across the country.
Starting battery spacer - For starting battery to make it "stock height" probably didn't need and could have cut Off Grid supplied J hooks shorter. I opted to leave them full length in case I ever went back to a stock sized battery at next replacement.
Diode in alt-s fuse to increase charging voltage - Ebay part that replaces a fuse in the underhood fuse box, the diode tricks the alternator into putting out a higher voltage better suited to top off AGM batteries, I see 14.1v warm charging now instead of 13.5v. I have since changed to a GM OEM part# 12135037 that fits like a factory fuse with some slight shaving of the sides, thanks for the tip Chitown 4x4! (theoretically less prone to failure maybe? although my ebay part never failed)
Dual battery voltage monitor in center console - kept hidden away because the light is bright and so I don't obsess over it but can look when needed. Very handy to have in some way to confirm your system is working as intended and also diagnose alternator issues.


Next up are the parts that could be pretty universal for any dual battery setup build:

Hydraulic Lug Crimping Tool - An extra expense but it made all this work super easy and clean, invest in one of these with your buddys and a cheap harbor freight heat gun. No other special tools required.
Blue Sea SI ACR - (Blue Sea specs here) The key to the whole system. Cheaper than the automatic charging relays ML-ACR with the manual switch that most people use in dual battery setups. I didn't feel this switch was necessary for an extra ~$100, I didn't want to mount the switch, and the automatic nature of "it just works" is nice to not think about when on the trail. If I want to jump start from aux battery I can simply install a short power jumper across this relay or use jumper cables between the two, but most likely I'd still use my backup lithium ion jumper pack from Antigravity for ease of use anyway.
2x Battery Terminals - "military style" 3/8" connection posts for easy attachment of the lug terminals. These are a positive/negative set that come with nice rubber covers too. They do require cutting off the puny factory battery connections but they won't be missed.
1/0 Gauge Cable between two batteries - This is what links two two power houses together, I chose 1/0 welding cable and 10ft was plenty to cleanly route around near the firewall to the passenger side. It also came with a few 3/8" hole lug terminals which is handy.
1/0 3/8" hole Lug terminals - Needed more of these to make all the battery and ACR connections.
1/0 5/16" hole Lug Terminals - Needed for the fuse connections, slightly smaller diameter poles.
Red 3/1 Heat Shrink - This is the good stuff with the glue inside big enough for the 1/0 cable.
Black 3/1 Heat Shrink - Same thing just for the ground sides.
2x Fastronix MEGA/AMG 250a Fuse - Probably the most overlooked item in a dual battery system are the safety components. Ideally you would fuse EVERY connection as close to the power source as possible to never create a live wire in the case of a short. In a dual battery setup this means adding one of these in the big 1/0 cable really close to BOTH batteries, utilizing the 5/16" hole lug terminals. These cover with rubber boot covers, fuses, and are easy to mount anywhere.


Lastly I'll cover the parts to the Aux power ports/Power distribution block/Fuse panel routed to the back of the vehicle since this is more of an option as well starting from the battery connection:

Blue Sea Battery Terminal Fuse Holder- Remember how I said Fuse EVERY connection closest to the power source, can't beat this little gem. The picture is deceiving, it doesn't come with a fuse.
150a Blue Sea Battery Terminal Fuse - Mounts on the above holder. I chose 150 amp to closely coincide with the power specs on the rear power distribution panel but this could vary based on your needs as well.
120a Bussman Circuit Breaker - Technically not required since this is a non-powered end of the wire but I like that it enables a quick shut off in the back seat area with the switch to kill all accessories in one flip and offers an extra level of protection. This is also sized appropriately to the fuse panel max requirements I selected. If I over draw the fuse panel for some reason I would rather trigger the circuit breaker here that I can flip the switch on than blow the expensive fuse at the battery end.
Blue Sea fuse panel on back of drawers - This is a big option depending on what your power needs are. I power the fridge, some USB outlets, a 12v cigarette lighter style outlet, the dual voltmeter, and some small LED lights off this so it is severely under utilized BUT I have room to expand later on.
4ga Cable Red/Black - The red runs between the 150a fuse on the aux battery, back to the circuit breaker in the rear seat area. The black I ended up with a lot left over since I only used small sections of to: ground the fuse panel in the back seat area, ground the aux battery nearby it, replace the factory starting battery ground.
4ga Lug Terminals for all aux connections - These have 1/4" stud size. I had to drill one out to 5/16" to fit on the fuse block at the battery.
1/2" marine heat shrink black - Used on some of these smaller connections.
0.31" marine heat shrink black - Used on some of these smaller connections.

Simple diagram


OGE Aux battery tray install


System view from passenger side


System view on driver side with stock battery and tie down


Driver side again with AGM battery and OGE tie down


Dual volt meter in center console cold before Alt-S diode


Rear seat circuit breaker and fuse block



Solar panel on roof

 

Doug Thorley Header install early 2017. I did not have cracked stock manifolds with the dreaded tick yet, but I didn't want to deal with it an unscheduled time, and live in a non-emissions inspection state so I could go with catless downpipe style and improve performance/remove the big heat sinks from the engine bay. I also came across the Doug Thorley short tube headers for a steal on an auto anything black friday deal. Now to figure out how to get them to be a bolt in install for minimal down time since it was a my only vehicle at the time.

Digging through a very long thread on t4r I found lots of info that made me think making a wooden jig off of an old set of headers would be feasible and inexpensive. I purchased some used stock manifolds off of the "late great T-man" to use as mock up to build the jig.



Then supplied the new parts, 2.5" 2 bolt flanges, and 2.5" stainless pipe to a welder friend to tig up. They came out beautiful!


Equipped with new studs, nuts, and the special E head socket to remove the old studs I carefully started the swap on the engine. New gaskets supplied by Doug Thorley are the thick graphite Remflex brand and are good stuff. Lots of figuring out the right combination of extensions and sockets, and cutting a 14mm deep well down to a mid well, plus buying a set of ratcheting wrenches, they were in! They did require removing the engine mount bolts one side at a time and tilting the engine to hang the new headers on on the studs. I did also have slightly more access due to having a 1" body lift, although that created a tight fit at the steering shaft.




If I were to do it again I would put a reducer on the end to 2.25" pipe and flange, as you can see a 2.5" flange does mate to factory downpipe but is difficult to seal. I've found Remflex PN 6006 to be the best seal for this joint (crappy perforated seal pictured didn't last at all). The issue is sealing a flat 2 bolt 2.5" flange do the factory 2.25" donut gasket flange. I'm happy now though. My only other complaint is a air wooshing sound. I've consulted with other 4runner DT header users and have deduced that those with catalysts installed don't hear the sound, and also those without AIP don't have the sound. Since I'm straight downpipe with AIP I have the annoying sound on decel. I've pressure tested my full exhaust system for leaks and can't come up with anything. Also 2 years later the finish is rusty and chipping off but not warrant able by DT.

The performance improvement was GREAT! Seat of the pants dyno and fuel economy improvements brought it back to feeling like it was on stock passenger tires with the e rated 33's. Then I lifted it more, put heavier tires on it, roof rack, sliders, etc. and offset the gains but I can't imagine what it would be like without headers.

Sound clips:
Open header during install

Revving in a tunnel

Showing annoying decel whoosh sound

Trail run with gopro on the back

 

Awesome work! Looks and sounds great Thanks for the write up with pics on the dual battery setup.

 

Dangit, now I want headers. Wish I lived somewhere that didn't do emissions.

 

You might still be able to do them with the stock catalysts welded on just like DT's instructions, or with high flow cats. Depends on if it's a visual inspection AND tailpipe emissions state or not. You can easily pass tailpipe with aftermarket cats. But yes Indiana is much easier, zero inspection. Makes you wonder about some of the jalopies on the road here though....

 

I don't think they do a visual inspection here but I could be wrong.

Question about your smooth intake mod. For the small vacuum line closest to the air box did you attach it to the aluminum tube or the silicone elbow? I'm having a hard time figuring out how to attach it to the elbow I bought and am thinking about just lengthening that line to put it into the aluminum tube.

 

Lengthened and attached to the aluminum tube with a Spectre part # 8711 can be bought at any auto parts store. The whole saws in it are junk though, I used harbor freight hole saw kit instead. This make it easy to seal those connections into the aluminum tube.

 

ok thanks, that's what I was thinking. I think I'm going to just replace all three of the lines so I can route them where I want. I did manage to use the hole saw in that kit for one hole before it broke. I now own some better hole saws for my second attempt.

 

What URD simulator did you use? I can't seem to find it on URD's website for a v8 4Runner. Thanks! Nice build!!

 

I used their universal simulator and with the universal instructions it did NOT work, make sure to request the specific instructions for your year v8 4runner and it'll work very easily. Wired it it up right by the ECM to keep it out of the elements.

 

Stripped everything off the roof rack and removed the fridge and some other dead weight for better fuel economy (lol yeah right), reinstalled rear swaybar, and headed south to cross off the last 3 states we haven't been to together in the 4funner. There was no wheeling and only a parking lot camping night but we crossed them all off! Wrapped up that trip just as we officially doubled the miles on the 4funner since we bought it. It's been a great platform for our adventures but we are now considering selling it as a turn key overland/adventure rig with a ton of spares, ready to camp any weekend, just add food and firewood. Anyone want a well maintained, used but loved 4th gen?

 

I have the problem that once I start getting bored of a vehicle I have to sell it and start the mods all over again. Has likely cost me a lot of money over the years. What are you considering going to?

 

Haha yep, obviously I could take it a little further with long travel and bumpers but I haven't needed any of that for my travels. I did pick up a 5th wheel for matching full size spare but haven't found a Wilco or Rig'd hitch carrier for a good deal yet. Next platform would most likely be a GX460 or LC200 depending on how many kids we pump out but we've agreed that they will grow up dispersed camping.

 

Unless your looking for a used one, these guys might be the ticket.
I have a Knuckle Bone Carrier being made for my 5th gen. Designed for 4Runners. Read a pretty good review but cant remember which forum.
Hoping to have it installed before the ATR at Windrock, Tenn. I'll post back how it does on the trip from Central Florida.

Detours of Maine Fabrication.
https://detoursofmaine.com/

 

Officially listed it for a turn key package price at first while I consider parting it out or just keeping it forever. It will most likely sit for the rest of the summer.

Expedition portal for sale thread

 

I’ve also decided to tackle the adventure index system! Question, do you and possible spouse/gf fit together comfortably? I’m 6’2 and my wife is 5’8 and a beefy puppers. I’m aware of the fridge slider which I plan to omit. Awesome build!!

 

Late response. We are 5' 10" and 5' 5" with 2 7lb dogs that fit very comfortably in the platform on top of the adventure index system. The wife has to deal with the fridge but just sleeps diagonally. It's cozy but still the best camping setup we've ever had.

 

I've revised some of my views on dual battery wiring and made a much more in depth write up on my website at THE ULTIMATE DIY OVERLAND DUAL BATTERY SYSTEM WITH SOLAR – SIMPLE, CHEAP, AND EFFECTIVE.
Any questions or comments please let me know!

 

love it