What have you done to your 4th Gen 4Runner today?

Hell yea. Love when a job goes fast and easy. Replaced the PS bank 1 O2 sensor. Old one came out easy, new one went in easy. Total job was like 20 minutes. Went through the fender well didn’t even take the tire off or jack up the car.

used a crescent wrench to loosen the sensor (which thankfully wasn’t ‘stuck’), then found it was easier to remove from my back under the vehicle. Repeated the process in reverse.

 

Score!!

 

AUTOMATIC DOOR UNLOCKING You can select the following functions:
Unlocking linked with the shift position All doors are automatically unlocked when the selector lever is moved to “P” position.
Unlocking linked with the ignition switch All doors are automatically unlocked when the driver’s door is opened within 10 seconds after the ignition switch is turned to the “ACC” or “LOCK” position, or the key is removed.

You can set or cancel the automatic door unlocking functions: Be sure to apply the parking brake when performing the following operations.

To select the unlocking linked with the shift position:
1. Close all doors and turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position.
2. Shift the selector lever to the “P” position.
3. Within 10 seconds of turning the ignition switch to the “ON” position, press and hold the driver’s side power door lock switch in the unlock position for 5 seconds and then release.
The doors will be locked and unlocked to indicate that the function is set.
To cancel the function, do the above operation again.

To select the unlocking linked with the ignition switch:
1. Close all doors and turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position.
2. Shift the selector lever from “P” to the “N” position.
3. Within 10 seconds of turning the ignition switch to the “ON” position, press and hold the driver’s side power door lock switch in the unlock position for 5 seconds and then release.
The doors will be locked and unlocked to indicate that the function is set.
To cancel the function, do the above operation again.

 

Prepping for squirrel damage electric repair from my trusted local. Detailed under the hood and picked up some rodent tape for him to wrap up all the obvious spots....hoping it's worth the $50! Oh and ordering an actuator for a failed passenger door lock. Nothing fun this time around!

 

Good news is i drove the vehicle to work this morning and the CEL hasn't come back on. Can assume this is all fixed now.

One question... do O2 sensors either work/not work or can they go bad over time? Only asking because i only replaced the bank 2 O2 sensor and am just wondering if i should replace the bank 1 O2 sensor so they are both new at the same time. Bank 1 sensor is unknown on if its ever been replaced or not.

 

This worked fantastic, thank you for posting!!

 

I think you can run it just the way it is. If it was me though, I’d probably replace bank 1 sensor 1 as well since the fronts control the air fuel mixture. If it was the rears, id say run them till they die because they’re a little less important

 

I bought all 4 sensors (2 upstream, 2 downstream) so i'll probably just replace the remaining ones as well. I know the downstream sensors don't really do anything except tell the health of the Catalytic converters... but they were all fairly cheap at <$50/ea.

 

these?



installed yet?

 

Yes, those are the ones. I haven't had a chance yet, but maybe in a couple weeks I'll have them installed...

 

sick!
dito

 

I just booked in UCA swap for 8am, Saturday March 8.
Also working with the shop to find a way to safely increase front ride height via 5100’s or add spacers! With my 3” lift spring setup, I may be limited to spacers only, but even those may mess with the geometry so we’ll see, but I desire more height.

 

What if you went tall and skinny tires?! Like some 255/80/17s in-lieu of the suspension spacers? Either way, you're definitely going to be happier with the UCAs and I'm hoping the newly designed UBJs are legit too!! Oh the joys of summer coming up is getting me anxious to throw these buggers on! I have to remove my SPC UCAs and press the old bushings out and then swap the UBJs to the latest design...I feel it's a bit more work but I hope the juice is worth the squeeze!

 

hey dude, ya I like that idea too, I wonder if it would give me the appearance of more height - it’s actually the distance between the top of tire and the fender that I wish was greater. My 4wd shop seems to think so far that my components may be maxed out in my setup, without compromising geometry / ride height. They know Bilstein 5100’s well, they said with 3” lift springs if you click your 5100’s lift setting up from 0” you’ll over extend and can bottom out and bugger your balljoints on the downward extension.


255/80’s are cool, I really like 255/85’s actually…But unfortunately they do not fit my 17x9 rims haha. So my next tire is the elusive 35x10.5 or 35x11.5 (elusive in Canada)

 

285/75R17 is another option to consider. It's a tall skinny 34" tire roughly. I'm running them on my 09 taco

 

Does anyone know if there is a speedometer calibrator out there for our 4th gens? I have a hypertech in the tacoma, but it doesn’t look like they make one for my 2006 4R. Curious if there are plug and play alternatives

 

that’s true, 285/75’s are very nice. but I got my eye on 35’s (C or D load, “skinny” 35’s)

 

Are you still running the stock gears? A C load or D load would help keep the weight down for sure. Looking forward to seeing what you go with!

 

That’s right I wanna keep the weight and width down, and I don’t see much of a difference for me from the heavy in class load e 285/70’s I run now. And I may remove the Spidertrax spacers for additional relief.
The plan is no regear, just an OTT tune, for my use. I don’t tow, if I did I would think about tranny cooler and regear. I should likely think about adding tranny cooler regardless

 

I finally replaced my blown subwoofer after suffering with it for a couple of years.

 

Look that old thing!
Is that an OE sub?
Nice work

 

Thanks! Yep 20 yr old OE!

 

What replacement subwoofer is that?

 

It’s a Rockford Fosgate P32SD2.

 

Replaced the drivers side O2 sensor today. Another easy and quick job. I will say the drivers side is slightly harder to do (IMO) because the steering shaft is in the way of where the wrench fits best. Just have to kinda Tetris it in there.

will do the two rear sensors during my next oil change.

 

Replaced the liftgate lower weatherstrip. No more sloshing around after a heavy rain.

 

I finally did part 2 of @J.A.'s fog light mod. Part 1 enables fog light operation any time the ignition is on, as long as high beams are off. Part 2 enables fog light operation even when high beams are on. That, combined with new Trail Runner Customs pod fogs, gives me some serious candlepower when needed on dark rural roads or trails.

 

Super functional modification! Nice work!!

 

I believe thats the same sub i put in. Nice little sub even with the stock JBL amp pushing it.

 

For people without the built-in sub, I installed this

$90 Rockville RW68CA 400w 6x8 Slim Under-Seat Active Powered Car/Truck Subwoofer Sub Black

Rockville 6x8 400W model under my driver’s side seat in June of last year. Very happy with it. I’m not looking to rattle the windows of nearby buildings, just to have solid bass you can feel. Does a great job and very good value for the money.