Fuel Injectors help!

Hi everyone,

I’ve been dealing with some fuel system issues on my ’95 3VZE with a manual transmission. I recently had the injectors replaced with remanufactured ones, but I’ve continued to have problems. To troubleshoot, I decided to replace the injectors myself with new, known parts to ensure everything looks correct.



I’ve run into a roadblock! I bought three new OEM injectors online because they were relatively affordable and sourced the other three from a Toyota dealer (at a much higher cost). Now I realize that none of the three sets of injectors match. I’m unsure which is correct—what I pulled out, the online ones, or the dealer-sourced ones.



Here’s the breakdown:

• All three types of injectors have 23250-65020 etched on them.

• However, the part number on the box from the dealer says 23209-65020.

• The injectors look noticeably different despite the matching etching.



Attached pictures:

1. The first image shows the three injectors:

• Left: the one I pulled out.

• Middle: the one from online.

• Right: the one from the dealer.

2. The second image shows an injector well. You’ll notice the green cup inside it. Should that be removed, or does the proper injector slide into it?



I’m stuck and unsure how to proceed. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!



Thanks in advance!

Thomas Z.

Austin, TX

 

Did the new parts come as an assembly with the o rings and grommets and insulators and pintel caps in place? The dealer one looks to not have the bottom insulator in place and it should be part of replacement procedure. The stuff stuck in the well should be carefully plucked out and replaced. Have you tested any or all of these parts? There are a couple of interchange numbers for these injectors.

 

Thanks for the response. This is exactly how they arrived. They were each in a Toyota box but nothing else was included. I have not tested them, is this just checking the resistence?

I need help answering these questions:
- Do I remove the the green cup in the injector wells (sounds like the answer is yes)
- Between the two I ordered which is correct? I presume it's not a good idea to use mis-matched ones; though it would be convenient since that's what I have.
- What is the rubber ring around the middle one, should they all have that?
- Why are they different? What is the correct part number?

Thank you!!

 

I can understand your confusion.
The 23250-65020 etched on them cannot be found when I search at a dealer parts department but is listed as an interchange number at a couple of other sites like Rockauto and Motorwest (who does rebuilding)

23209-65020 brings up a part in dealer databases. I suspect they are interchangeable.
Your middle pic is how they should look, with from bottom to top, pintel cap, seal/insulator, grommet, o-ring. I suspect the dealer part did not include the bottom grommet/seal/isolator.
Pic from Motorwest of ready to install parts so you can see the order of assembly:

 

The last time I did injectors was on my 5VZ and the bottom end is different from these.
When I did my 22-re they were just like this but it was a hundred years ago so my memory is a little cloudy on that.

Yeah, I guess test all of them for resistance as I wonder why your replacements did not work out for you. Looks from you pic like you have an FSM so that's good. I personally wouldn't mess with flow testing them at home but that's just me.

Do you have time for it to be down? I see that a number of rebuilders are out of stock on complete sets for the 3VZ but possibly you could call and arrange to send in yours and get them refurbished.

 

I used these guys for my 5vz with good results and they seem to have a very good reputation
https://motorwestperformance.com/product/mp304-6pack-l1/

I stumbled across these guys while looking at the whole part number thing. I don't know anything about them but at the very least they have a really good pic of the injectors.
https://www.bigdawgdiesel.com/gas-i...ick-up-1993-1994-toyota-t100-3-0l-vin-v-3vze/

I don't remember the name of the place I had my 22-re done and it might be quite the rabbit hole to investigate.

 

Thanks! Having the correct terms to google helps!

To summarize where i'm at:

• The (green) pintel caps are required, so i'll fish out the old ones and install the new injectors with them on. BTW, I measured and the middle picture's pintel caps are 1mm wider than the right (dealer) ones.
• The seal/insulator (black rubber ring on the pintel cap) is also required, so regardless I'll need to make sure the ones I install have them installed
• Though the number 23250-65020 is etched on the injectors, it's not the actual number and instead I should use the number 23209-65020

Conclusion - please let me know if i'm correct

• I should return the middle ones I bought online
• Get 3 more from the dealer (they are expensive!!)
• And locate seal/insulator black rubber rings for all of them

Does this sound correct? I sincerely appreciate the help.

-thomas

 

Would you consider a set of rebuilts? They will come with everything ready to install.
I had very good luck with mine. Not cheap but not $200 per injector.
If you want to go that route you can return everything, but you will need a set to turn in for core or just eat the $40.

 

FYI, I went down the 22-re rabbit hole after all. It looks like the guy has retired but still takes in some work from time to time. It also appears that this may have just been cleaning and flow testing. But I'm sure they came back with new pintels and rubber parts in any event.

https://www.cruzinperformance.com/fuelinj.html

 

Witchhunter was another one but I see he is also retired (my age is showing) but he recommended
https://www.advancedinjector.com/

 

I'm trying to eliminate variables because I've had so much trouble, that's why I was looking at OEM/NOS. They are just so expensive per. I thought I had a decent deal with the three I got online, which is all they had which is why i augmented with the dealer items. What's the feeling of this group? Are rebuilt ok?

 

Sent you a couple of PMs. If it pans out we can share it here for everyone.

 

BTW, what are your symptoms/trouble codes/issues?

 

It's a long story. But where i'm at now; it runs fine when cold but as soon as it warms up the idle drops and surges and it's running very rich. No codes. It's "drivable" but barely. We've been throwing parts at it (lots of parts) and have arrived at - maybe there was a problem with the injectors we had installed. I doubt that's the case but I want to be sure (again, eliminating variables). I decided to do the job myself this time and have already run into a couple of items that could possible have caused issues.

I'd rather save the money on rebuilt injectors but I don't want to put it together again and still have a problem. Which may be the case anyway.

 

So I kind of forgot the age of the truck. Do you have OBD2 or do you have the old jumper wire and count the dash light flashes approach. But I certainly understand not wanting to throw unknowns into the equation.

 

No it's OBD1 i've tried the jumper wire trick and no codes.

 

Alright, well good luck.
If those seats at the head are cracked or compromised, that could also contribute too.