Front suspension additional parts?

Hello, soon I'll be installing 2.0" front Dobinson MRR coil over shocks. Are there any additional parts or modifications I should do while I'm in there?

I had wanted to have my steering knuckles reinforced but to do so seems to require more wheel backspacing than I have now and I'm not ready to do that yet.

I shouldn't need UCAs, diff drop, or anything else but that's why I'm here asking. Bump stops perhaps? Sway bar end links should be okay too?

In case it matters, they'll put the correct springs to support the additional 220 lbs over the front axle. The rear is stock suspension with maybe 60 lbs extra static weight. Tires are 32.8" 255/80/17s.

Thanks in advance!

 

Bump stops for sure. The stock ones are not going to be the right height for an aftermarket shock with more travel, plus the OEM rubber isn't progressive. It's hard/harsh.

 

Thanks. I'm only doing 2" of lift though in the front and they're normal travel not the extended travel version. Do those factors matter and if I still need new bump stops, what do you recommend? Thank you.

 

If you off-road it's still a good idea to do Timbren or Sumo or something because they are much less harsh when you bottom out. On the street it's up to you.

 

New UCA would be recommended to keep good caster angle. You don’t need anything else. Do you know what spring they will select? Hopefully 700 lbs.

 

Invest in quality bump stops to protect your new shocks and their performance. Last thing you want is to bottom out hard on your new Dobinsons with the short, OEM hard rubber stops. Personally, I run Durobumps front and rear. Not the cheapest, but they're among the best.

 

Whenever someone asks a question like this, I have to ask what you're trying to accomplish. If it's for looks, you're good to go. If you want to play in rocks the answer might be different than if you want to play at the dunes, and that might be different than if you want to play in the BaJa.

 

I'd do this too since your going to be working on the suspension

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8...8BVhpPWiPdCrzM4VHDOOvcCljp72ZUPDY0n-FDx6OleCI

 

Thanks about the bump stops. What's your top pick for my use as I wrote in the below quote? I'll likely ask Dobinson on what to adjust them to if they're adjustable, but if you have any information I'd prefer to learn everything myself.

EDIT: Already read up on these and are simple enough. Disregard advice on them. Going with a mid grade non hydraulic. Super springs seem like a pretty good fit for me.

I've read from many sources and spoken to Dobinson about UCAs and all have said they're not needed until a 2.5" or greater lift. Can you elaborate on why you do think they'd be a good idea and which ones as some are adjustable and some aren't and have different dimensions? Thank you.

Apologies. This is my daily driver and I'll only do slow 5-20mpg dirt roads, trails, some occasional slow rock crawling and 10-20 mph around the beach though I moved away from the coast, so that'll be rare. I do use 4x4 sometimes for job sites but 99% of the time I'm driving around on the street like normal. My lift will be 2.00-2.25" front / 1.5-2.0" rear.

I'm handy and have general auto tools. Can you point me in the right direction as to what that is and what is it good for? I read the description but I need it explained to me like I'm eight. Thanks!

 

i have a 2” lift 600 lb springs and use energy suspension bump stops in front and 4.25 Durobumps in rear (1.5” lift).

$40 Energy Suspension - 8.9104G REAR BUMP STOPS

 

This is the needle bearing replacement. I highly recommend it. If you buy one, buy the gasket too. You do need the removal tool & install tool but some communities pass the tools around. I’ve done it on my Taco & I will do it on my 4Runner soon too. I plan to do new rotors & pads, tires & wheels & will do the ECGS bearing then

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/needle-bearing-yes-replace-it-ecgs.716338/

https://www.4runners.com/threads/needle-bearing-issue.8124/

https://www.4runners.com/threads/needle-bearing.23288/

 

The stock UCA is fine, I’ve been running one with my IMS shocks for
over 50k miles. At 2.5 inches of lift they weren’t able to get my caster within spec, but it was only off by 0.1 degrees. I preferred to keep the stock UCAs for the benefits of OE (longevity, maintanance free, reliablilty).

The steeper caster angle isn’t that big of a deal, your steering will just be a little lighter, and it will feel a little more lively on the road. For me it makes for a funner commute, but some people hate that feeling. Stock UCAs also will make fitting 285/70-17s easier. On stock Off-Road wheels they fit without any rubbing on the body mount without rubbing (suspension compressed, steering turned).

At 2 inches of lift, you should just be able to get caster within spec. I’d only go with aftermarket if you don’t like slightly livelier steering feel on the road.

 

You bought extended brake lines yet? I’d consider those if you’re going off road & flexing a lot

 

This is exactly why I started this thread. Thank you very much! Consider it done. Whenever I get my shocks back from Dobinson.

Thank you. This all is what I had been reading and hearing as well.

Hmm, I didn't know those were recommended for a 2" lift. I'll look into it, thank you.

 

Get the brake lines, worth it, minor expense for what could be a big big problem. After lifting mine, I was only willing yo drive minimal before adding the,.

 

And make sure that you're ABS sensor wiring is able to extend enough if you're going long travel.

As a datapoint, I swapped in the Eibach Pro Lift springs to my rig's suspension, fronts gained approximately +1.5" and the castor angle wasn't quite perfect so there seems to be some variance as to what you may be able to achieve during alignment. Just be prepared to upgrade those UCAs.

 

Here are the ones I bought

 

To the OP, always consider the suspension as a whole. If the changes you’re making are within the stock specs (as in your case a 2” suspension lift is) then there isn’t much of any repercussions to consider.

Bump stops are related to speed and tire size. So you should be fine there.

UCA are related to lift, wheel offset and tire size. I think your good there too.

If your shocks are OE specs then your break lines and ABS wires are all good too.

So in my opinion, you don’t need to chase the rabbit at all. Just keep in mind that there are a bunch of related components and your next upgrade might cause some collateral problems. It sounds like you’re on it, so enjoy your truck! Cheers

 

Extended brake lines are not necessary if the lift stays within the normal travel limits of a stock 4runner.

Even though it could be argued extended brake lines wouldn’t hurt, the quality/durability of aftermarket is rarely better than OE. Not to mention, there is always the potential of screwing up any type installation (for example, having to chase leaks, or an air bubble that ends up in the ABS pump). From a risk perspective, it’s not worth changing out more parts than are necessary.

 

All I know, is once my lift went on that became a priority. As we were finishing putting the lift on, it appeared like I might lose my brake lines if I full extended the rear tire. I took the advise and removed the possible failure point.

 

If, in your lift, the new shocks have more range than stock, you have left the OE spec and need to take other considerations into account when building out your rig. However in this thread, the OP is not going in that direction. In your case you are doing the right thing.

 

Thanks so much for the input. I'm pretty handy and do my maintenance myself so I'll be installing all of this too. I already have new front bump stops and I'll be extending the brake lines. I was considering a flush anyways.

I would like to pick y'all's brain about reinforced spindles / steering knuckles. The Total Chaos kit and one other I can't remember both required more backspacing than I have on my factory 17" TRD wheels. Is there another good product that'll work with my wheels or if I want it, I'll have to bite the bullet and get different wheels? I'd rather not do wheel spacers, but I'm open to debate. To me, they're just another thing to fail and cause steering and alignment issues. Perhaps they've improved over the years or mount in a better way than I'm aware of,though. I think the extra backspacing needed is only 1/4-1/2".

 

Total Chaos is very helpful. Give them a call and they’ll tell you what offset is compatible with the spindle gussets.

I have the TC +2 LT with gussets. I clear everything with Method 701 zero offset wheels. YMMV.

 

If you haven't yet. Look into the wheelers offroad superbumpstops.

Really helps soften the blow from bottoming out. They have a video on YouTube.

 

I called Total Chaos and they said they will indeed work with any factory wheel including the TRDs I have. Awesome!