DIY 3.5" JL Audio dash speaker upgrade - Wow!

I've been lurking on this thread for a while and finally did the tweeter replacement today using the Infinity REF-3032CFX 3 1/2" coax. I've had my T4R since February, and one of the few things that has been bothering me about the truck is the stock audio system. I have to say, for around $75 in parts total including the speakers, adapters and 133uF capacitors, the sound is so much better. This has to be the best bang for buck audio upgrade you can do. I know there are many other improvements that can be done, and I'll be considering a few, but at least I can now listen to music with a smile on my face instead of thinking about why things sound so poor. One thing I have not done is shave down the dash speaker covers as they fit fine with these speakers. I listened with the covers on, and off, and could not tell any difference. But I still may do that in the future. Huge thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread!

 

@Windplr don't these come with 270 uF capacitors? Why the 133 uFs?

 

They do come with 270uF caps, and I think it would be fine to use those since at 4ohms they will block frequencies below 150hz (the 3032CFX are rated to 85hz). The 133s block frequencies below ~300hz, so less bass from them. The reason I went with the 133s is that others on this thread like how it sounds that way. Could be that since there is also a woofer in parallel in the door, those speakers can do more of the bass work. I will say that I am noticing much fuller bass with the 3 1/2" coaxial speakers with the 133s.

 

Great thread and very informative, thank you. I'd like to replace only the dash speakers in my 2018. There have been a lot of comments about the Infinity's overpowering the rest of the OEM speakers. That makes sense since they are 3 ohms instead of 4. The Hertz are listed as 4 ohms; what has the experience been with these?

 

Glad to see this post is still alive and running. I come back to it, then get distracted with something else, or see the technological talk and get apprehensive. Ready to do it now, since my daughter and I often attend concerts and live acts, playing music to and from the events is part of the fun. Usually wish it would sound a little better in my stock 2019. I will have to go over (again) the beginning of this thread to understand the wiring for a dash speaker replacement, and the fabrication as well.
Not looking to blast the windows, just a decent improvement will satisfy.
Would Crutchfield be able to set me up?

 

I'll answer my own question about the Hertz 3.5 speakers. They sound fantastic without overpowering the other speakers. I used the 133 microfarad capacitors.

 

Well, everyone was right. The passenger side is problematic due to the lack of space. I'd advise to do the driver side then passenger which will take you twice as long if you are like me. The outcome is worth the effort no doubt. Now I've got a powered mini infinity sub that I need to install. I'm concerned about the sound being automatically adjusted to reduce the bass but it may no be an issue if I turn it off completely. Anyone else go with the basslink mini? I'd like to connect to the wiring harness for the audio signal without going into the dash and exposing the rear of the non-JBL head unit. is that possible? and is there a wiring diagram to follow for the 2020 SR5 Premium 4Runner? Thanks in advance and to all those who inspired me to dive in.

ps. The tiny cap mounted on the side of the infinity 3.5" serves what purpose after installing the bipolar cap that is supplied with the speakers?

 

Hi everyone. I read this whole thread because I will be buying a 2024 soon without the JBL system. The front dash and front door speakers are almost exactly like my 2011 FJ Cruiser so I don't expect any problems there. Stay tuned.

 

Has anyone here done a perforation job or grille change on the stock dash speaker grilles? Putting a 3.5" speaker behind a 2" hole isn't ideal. I know that people trim off the flange, but it's still a 2" hole. It could always be cut out and covered in acoustically transparent cloth I suppose, but cloth never lasts in the sun.

 

The 3.5 inch is a direct fit. The "hole" is big enough to accommodate a 3.5 inch speaker using OEM screws and modified stock brackets.
The hole is really a cavity big enough for even a 4 inch speaker if someone really wanted too with some smart installation. But a 3.5 is drop in easy.

 

Yes, I know they will fit down in the dash physically, same as my FJ Cruiser. My interest is in the diameter of the opening in the grilles.

 

This is a pretty small hole. Is it a two-piece grille so that the back can be pried off or is it a one-piece plastic molded design? It looks like it consists of a molded plastic backing with a mesh applied to the top. I can look next time I go to the dealer. The truck won't be here for at least a month.

 

Can someone confirm the correct bass blocker I would need to use these 3.5 JBL tweeters? https://a.co/d/5qxLNTN

The way I'm reading this thread, is that these would be correct?

PAC BB-5PR Pair of 3.5" Bass Blocker

$12 PAC BB-5PR Pair of 3.5" Bass Blocker

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H3RL6NI

 

The speakers should come with their own bass blockers in the box.
If not, the one you picked should work just fine.

 

Problem solved once and for all.







Perfectly centered over the drivers.




https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C2G33D4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Discard the trim rings and fit them directly into the Toyota grilles. I don't see any point in mounting a 3.5" coaxial under the 2" openings way off center. This solves the problem.

Next up is sealing the openings around the drivers, which is required to prevent the back wave of the speaker from canceling the front wave.

 

My head is going to blow. But what dash speaker works in a Limited model that had the JBL audio system?


Infinity Reference 3032cf 3.5-Inch, 75-watt High Performance Two-Way Loudspeaker (Pair)
https://a.co/d/h2Y4XRb

 

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...^^^... Great write up ... you could do manuals for Toyota .... got some good ideas here

I assume that there is not much difference in the 2024 ??

I am going to try to do as much of a "speaker swap" as possible without adding an amp or changing the head unit ??? I hope this is possible ??

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It is possible. I just did my 2024. It's not easy. There are three major problems with the 2024 (non-JBL) setup. You can read about all three in this thread and others here. 1) Really messed up EQ curves set in the Toyota head-end unit that cannot be defeated, 2) A 2" opening in the dash grille that does not align with a 3.5" coaxial speaker, and 3) Irregular dashboard openings that are difficult to seal around the 3.5" coaxial speakers.

In my 2024 I ended up with 3.5" coaxial Rockford Fosgate speakers in the dash passively crossed over at about 150 Hz and 6x9" Rockford Fosgate coaxials in the doors but with their tweeters disabled. This setup yields a quasi-3-way system with most of midrange and bass from the door 6x9's and midrange and treble from the coaxials in the dash. It works ok, but it's not perfect. The level of the 3.5's is adjusted downward with series resistors to match the 6x9's. Values are 2.7 Ohm in series and a 100uF crossover capacitor. I chose the Rockford Fosgate speakers due to their high efficiency, which is needed with the relatively low power head end unit.

I also ran a 12 AWG power wire from the battery to the head-end unit so it can get proper power. Ditto for the ground wire.

I installed mesh inserts in the dash grilles to open them up from 2" to 3.5" and to align them with the drivers.

Sealing the dash openings was done with multiple layers of sound deadening material (Kilmat) and black fabric gaffer tape. Make paper templates first. It's not easy on the driver's side.

I am putting 6.5" Rockford Fosgate coaxials in the tailgate with resistor-capacitor frequency contour networks to cut about 9dB above 2 kHz to compensate for the horrible Toyota rear channel EQ. I bypassed the rear door speakers, leaving only the tailgate speakers on the rear channel. I decided the rear door speakers are too close to the ear to be effective for rear fill after some testing.

A lot of work but it is much, much better than what Toyota had done. I took an 8 hour trip and I was able to enjoy the music. Source material is FLAC ripped from my CD collection to a USB thumb drive. WAV rips sounded worse than FLAC, which surprised me. When listening, don't overlook the quality of the source material.

Overall, it's not the best sound system, but it's usable and it was very affordable. I'm not willing to get rid of the head-end unit or install an amplifier, so this will do.


Sealed dashboard openings:



3.5" speaker grille inserts:





12 AWG power and ground to the head end unit so it can get proper power:

 

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...^^^... Thanks a lot for all of that info. You gave me some good ideas and leads.