Jack Stand/Floor Jack Help

Found some, they work great. Jack definitely goes high enough.

 

This makes me happy. Glad you found a good jack.

 

Thanks, the 6 ton stands are a bit overkill but I opted to go larger so I wouldn’t have to extend them as much for stability. Mainly for tire rotations, but first time I do the brakes they will pay for themselves.

And bonus, they are my favorite color.

 

Bad ass. Very nice! Oh heck yeah a brake job pays for them for sure.

Go big or go home, always better to be overkill than not enough.

 

If you are needing to lift the frame that Daytona looks like a great tool. I usually just lift one axle side for tire or brake service. It only needs a couple inches up.
Also my DIY axle adapters for factory or bottle jack might come in handy on the road or trail.I carry mine in the with the factory jack. Plus some 2x6, 4x4 pieces of wood depending on outing.

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I just used my Quick Jacks for the first on my recently purchased 2001. Loved the QJ for use with my summer toys. To safely use the QJ with the 4runner you need at least the 5000TL unit as 3500 model is not only underrated for vehicle weight but also shorter making it especially dangerous. Also, the use of the accessory Truck Adapter Kit is mandatory IMO. Doubling up the supplied rubber jacking pads is a big no no. For those interested in a QJ set up there are often good discounts around the holidays.

 

This is what I use...

https://www.proeagle.com/collections/shop/products/3-ton-big-wheel-jack-kratos

 

This is exact set I'm planning on getting (same configuration - 6 ton jack stands and the 3-ton low profile long range jack from Daytona). Undecided on color, but yours look great!

I'm kind of waiting out for a harbor freight coupon before pulling the trigger (hopefully I didn't miss anything over the weekend)

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My current Craftsman 2-ton jack and 2-ton jack stands have served me well for my Honda Civic, but it's time for something for the 4runner.

I may buy them sooner because I have tire rotation coming up in 1400 miles and I also want put down some woolwax in the next week or so

 

The good news is you never have to wait that long for a Harbor Freight Coupon. I am still happy with my Daytona LP LR Jack, even though it is green.

 

harbor freight has a 90 day return policy that you can use if they go on sale cheaper.

by the way they are going to have some good prices next week on stands and jacks.

https://slickdeals.net/f/17895564-h...e?src=SDSearchv3&attrsrc=Thread:Expired:False

 

Hmm, might have to go back and get a pair of 3 ton stands too during sale. I was considering a HF 1/2 drive click torque wrench but after watching a video, seems the accuracy is all over the map.

 

Aren't the saddles on the stands too narrow for the 4Runner frame (for jacking up at the front)? So that the frame rest on the ears.
Or how do you do that?

The only ones I've found so far are the yellow-blue from Hein-Werner with a wider saddle or the
DAYTONA with circular pads. Are there any other solutions or adapters that fit the 4runner frame better?

 

I bought 2 higher end torque wrenches (the ICON brand and not the Pittspurgh). I just changed my wife's brakes on Wednesday and torqued the caliper bolts down to 100 lbs per foot without issue. I researched and found the ICON line was pretty accurate. I bought a smaller 3/8 one for smaller jobs and larger 1/2 one for tires, etc... Up until I bought these, I've also tightened down bolts by "feel".

 

Yes, you’re right, they are a little narrow compared to the T4R frame. No, I don’t have a solution.

 

I bought a torque meter from Harbor freight. It’s a little wonky in operation but the video reviews said it was fairly accurate within its 4% design spec. I’ve used it quite a bit.

 

Tekton makes a good one that's reasonable. I have a 3/8" and a long 1/2" from them and they have been great.

 

US Jack 6 Ton Jack Stands fit the front section of the frame perfectly. As I mentioned before, they are pricey but IMO, totally worth the spend.

I tried the Hein-Werners but wasn't happy with their first and finish. Saddle was rough and had a seam running down the middle of it which is where the frame rests.

 

On the subject of 6-ton jacks, do they sell pads that will fit them? I see Harbor Freight sells pads for the 3 ton jacks for $10, but it would be nice to get a set for the 6-ton jacks to help protect paint,etc... The 3-ton they sell say they are only good for their 3-ton jacks.

 

I was not able to find jack stand pads to fit my other 6-ton stands. That is what led me down the path of finding jacks stands with a wide saddle. Good thing is you only need the wide saddle for the front, the standard 6-ton jack stands work on the rear since for most jobs, you will support the rear by the axle tubes, not the frame.

 

I fold a shop towel several times over as to not scratch the paint on the undercarriage. Just an idea.

 

I bought pads to fit over the saddles, but for the life of me can’t remember if HF had them, or maybe it was a bumper-to bumper shop. But they’re out there. They’re made out of a tough material, so the ears don’t punch through it

I like the stands with circular pads. If I were to it again, I’d get a pair of those, along with 3-ton jacks for the rear axle.

 

The frame is thick enough to rest on the ears without deformation, even on my 14 year-old example.

I've tried this kind of jack stand pads, but they are too tall and unstable. A bit of flex to the side and the vehicle can fall off the jack stand:

 

Those seem good for a pinch weld and dangerous for a 4runner. Anyone use these?

 

^They aren't even good for a pinch weld. A bit of flex in the transverse direction and they can fall over. I bought a set and discovered this, wasted my money.

 

I looked and I couldn’t find any for the 6 ton.

If I start really worrying about it, I may just cut out a couple of squares from an old tire and use as pads.

 

I ended up buying a set of 6-ton Daytona jack stands and the 3-ton Pittsburgh jack from their Black Friday sale. My preference was the long reach/low profile Daytona jack, but I couldn't pass it up for the $90. We will see how it works out.

 

Torque wrenches, like all instruments can be certified accurate.

Take your wrench to an instrument repair shop in your area, (a shop that repairs/tests/calibrates industrial instrumentation, like Rosemont or Puff-Swiven devices). Tell them you want your wrench calibrated to the National Bureau of Standards specification.

We used calibrated torque wrenches, traceable to the NBS, when torquing copper bus bar bolts and other electrical connections.

None of the many wrenches we used were accurate out of the box. And that was before the US couldn't make torque wrenches here anymore. Now we have to buy the ones built by Chinese children. Do you really believe they are accurate?

If you don't calibrate your torque wrench you might as well use a socket and breaker bar... and cross your fingers...

 

I'm curious, UncleShorty... is the National Bureau of Standards different from NIST (National Institute of Standards and Technology)?

All the calibrations I've been responsible for have been done to NIST, with no mention of NBS.

 

^NBS was renamed NIST around the time 4Runners came into existence four decades ago: https://www.nist.gov/pao/nist-100-foundations-progress/nbs-nist

 

That would be well before my involvement in calibrations. :^)