2016 missing 40hp on the crank?

I’m getting ready to supercharge my rig, and as a first step, I wanted to confirm the stock engine is in top shape. It’s got 59k miles with zero issues—runs smooth, no errors, no smoke, no jerky acceleration. I put it on a dyno to see where it stands, and the results came back at 230hp (crank numbers, European dynos...). I wasn’t expecting it to hit stock numbers exactly, but I was surprised by how low that seems. Is there anything common to this platform that could explain a drop like this?

 

The best use of a dyno is to compare your car to itself, before and after modifications.

They all read differently, and different conditions will give different results (altitude, temperature, humidity, etc.) You can even run multiple tests on a car in one day and get different results.

Most likely there is nothing wrong with your engine based on just the power rating from this one test (especially since you say everything else is fine).

 

are you sure that was at the crank and not the wheels?

 

yes, of course... whp would have to be close to 350 in this scenario, and we are talking about stock 1GR engine.

Anyhow, after several hours of digging, and taking into consideration topics like this https://www.4runners.com/threads/dyno-numbers-2020-4-0.29688/ and the fact that it's next to impossible to dyno this car properly with this dumb transmission software that prevents you from doing WOT without kickdown + the stock speed limiter hitting exact 110mph at revlimit... I rest my case here. The car is fine and I am just looking for problems that aren't there.

I'll use the same dyno later to figure out gains when Magnuson kit is in... That's it.

 

then maybe just a hot, humid day coupled with shitty American ethanol gasoline

 

hot and humid yes, but we have quite good fuels here where I am and this particular run was done on 98 octane.

I just realized that max speed is 164km/h (105mph), which at this point it might mean the car is just hitting a speed limiter (or does it even have one?). After applying SAE norms, the curves look nice and smooth, so can't figure that out.

Also, if anyone can give me a hint how to lock this damn gearbox in one gear, so I can WOT across the whole range without kicking down... This is my first Toyota and after years of working on German cars I feel like a complete noob here.

The chart looks like this because it's not really possible to floor it until it reaches 3500-3800 RPM...

 

Why would WHP be 350?

A dyno measuring at the wheels or hubs will always be quite a bit lower than a engine dyno hooked up at the flywheel. And I assume you did not remove your engine to hook it to a engine dyno. So if the dyno is reporting crank horsepower after measuring at the wheels/ hubs it is doing some sort of calculation based off of drivetrain loss, tire size etc. Which is not standard practice.

Just trying to make sense of this situation. 230 WHP sounds pretty healthy for a 1GR-FE.
In fact that's nearly the exact number that OTT reported their test vehicle's max horsepower before their tune. Well, 232 @ 5,590 rpm. (Stock tire size)

So I'm going to assume that 230 WHP is actually what the dyno read and someone misinformed you about wheel horsepower and crank horsepower.
Of course, all dynos are going to read different. Fuel quality, AIT, humidity, Elevation, and ECU learning all have a big part to play.

https://www.4runners.com/threads/overland-torque-tune-ott-by-overland-tailor.27827/

 

I'll just shut up... we have different approach to power outside of North America. Perhaps this dyno is reporting nonsense when calculating losses, this is the first 4runner we had here (car not available in our catalogs). It's a secondary discussion now. I'll get to the bottom of it with time.

My biggest problem is that I can't lock the gear when on the dyno. I don't know how are you guys able to get those pretty charts without being able to lock your gear in place. Any hints there?

BTW. you showed CF SAE chart in your example, which should assume all the losses and present corrected value, not the raw whp.

 

Yes the CF-SAE should account for atmosphere and help smooth the dyno curve. Pretty standard in North America but it may be different other places.

A gear lock tune is needed to keep the transmission in gear for a dyno pull.

I’d recommend reaching out to OTT to see if they can help you out!

 

My dyno after the blower but before a downsized pulley for 2 more psi. The numbers are in line taking account drivetrain losses. Remember the single VVT-i is rated for 236 crank. The TRD tune was super rich.

https://youtu.be/lS4DaF_QcGw?si=z41D20bdVdkfV0qd

 

They probably red line it in 3rd. gear.
The best way to find out would be to contact one the tuners and ask.

 

We are able to effectively gear lock the 4runner for a full RPM sweep dyno run.

The SAE corrected values are necessary in our case as these were done at ~4500ft Above Seal Level, with a much lower atmospheric pressure than that of sea level. If we displayed uncorrected numbers, they'd be about 15% lower across the board and it would look like something was wrong with the vehicle. The SAE correction used, corrects to a SAE specific standard air temp, pressure and humidity to normalize results and make them more consistent between locations. At least it gives you the ability to compare green apples to red apples.

Justin

 

Thanks for the feedback.

 

Do you offer remote tune or would you like to try working something out, considering that I can't export anything electronics to US and I am not planning to travel across the pond this year (I can bring any hardware to here, but sending out ECU/TCU for tune is out of option for me due to... laws). But we do have stable fiber here, in the middle of the desert...

 

Since you are talking about transmission shifting, you are talking about "at the wheels". At the crank means engine-out dyno.

This shows dyno at the crank:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0w9Y21r8nc

Some loss to drivetrain is normal and expected, especially when AT is involved.

 

I dont know if the current model 4R would fritz out or not, but in the past we have put a vehicle on the rollers and put it in gear manually and unplug the trans electronics. This was in the past on a tacoma, not sure if the current 4R would go whacky or would run thru that gear like intended.

 

I believe they sell the tuning software to do it to your own vehicle. I believe you just need the VFtuner and their software. Here's their website and contact info:

https://overlandtailor.com/5th-gen-4runner-tuning

https://overlandtailor.com/contact-us

I'm a big believer in OTT. I too was on the fence about a supercharger or maybe just a regear. But holy smokes the tune makes a biig difference. Even with 34" tires and about 450lbs of armor it feels much faster than a stock 4R. Solved the gear hunting problem as well.

The additional low end torque and updated shift logic is well worth the effort.