Brakes, guidance appreciated

Gents -

I am confused and could use some guidance.

I have ( I am original owner) a 2008 4runner limited 4WD 4.0L V6 with 170k. ( Normal suburban driving)

I was told by the mechanic that my front passenger side needs new 'caliper, pads,rotor, shim kit and that the other 3 are just fine.

Can I change just the 1 or to be uniform should I change the whole axle ( so both fronts wheels) ?

Labor charges only are $600 for the front axle and $1100 if I do both axles.

Toyota OEM parts will cost approx $750 for front axle or $1500 for both axles.

Some other maintenance milestones:

a) I have never replaced any rotor.
b) rear brakes pads (oem) were last replaced 100,000 miles ago.
c) I replaced the front driver side caliper and front brake pads 50,000 miles ago ( everything oem)

So, do I replace the 1 troubled side, the front axle, both axles?

Stick with OEM?

I saw via Amazon Power Stop KCOE138 ( 2 axles) kit for like 700 and Power Stop KC138-36 ( 2 axles) kit for like $850 which has the slotted/drilled rotors and red calipers which I think would look pretty cool. ( Mechanic recommends I stay away from the slotted/drilled rotors, (bummer, not sure why)

Wife would love for me to get rid of this vehicle but I like it and maybe will consider it when I get to 200k on the odometer.

Please advise and thank you!

 

$1500 for OEM parts? Hmmm....

Granted this was late 2022, but here's what I paid for OEM brake parts, everything for both axles except calipers, direct from Toyota. Did the work myself so no labor cost.
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OEM brakes front and rear (list below). I've had the PowerStop Z36 kit for several years and many, many miles but couldn't pass on a full OEM set for less than the PowerStop kit.

049450C030 1 $ 15.30 SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL, FRONT
0494630100 1 $ 15.30 SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL(FOR REAR DISC BRAKE)
0446660090 1 $ 44.37 Disc Brake Pad Set (Rear)
04465AZ200 1 $ 38.76 Disc Brake Pad Set (Front)
4351260151 2 $ 52.75 Disc Brake Rotor (Front)
4243160201 2 $ 67.21 Disc Brake Rotor (Rear)
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$353.65 plus $21.22 tax = $374.87 picked up (but shipping would have been free anyway)
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There's a process to get the best pricing on Toyota's site.
1. Go to autoparts.toyota.com
2. Look up parts
3. Click on View Details for a part you're considering
4. On the details page, note the MSRP then scroll down. You should see a list of dealers in your area. If not, put in your zip code or whatever to indicate your location.


5. Check each dealer. Some sell at MSRP, others, like Marietta Toyota here in Metro Atlanta, offer a nice discount as shown in this random part chosen as an example. I pick up the parts there for a $4 fee but they sometimes offer free shipping.

 

Thank you for all this fantastic information! I'm clearly being taken for a ride of sorts by my local 'stealership'. I am not mechanically inclined unfortunately ( labor does seem steep). I've subscribed to your youtube channel. Would you change just the problem area or the whole front axle?

I'm thinking it's best to do the front axle to be uniform and all that? ( Similar to how I would never change just 1 tire, but do it at least as a pair on the same axle? My driving style is normal and I'm just looking for a back to normal braking experience.

Appreciate you!

 

You're very welcome, and I appreciate your kind words. I try to pay forward the incredible help and many kindnesses I've found here and on similar forums.

While it may seem odd that just one brake is affected, seized calipers are a known 4th Gen issue and could account for it. As I see it, the problem with just fixing that corner is what you mentioned with tires - you'll have one new rotor and pad (the wear parts) and 3 others in various conditions. Since you're replaced the driver's side caliper, my suggestion would be to do rotors & pads on both sides in front along with the passenger side caliper. Rears should be fine until it's time again.

FWIW, I had a good experience with the PowerStop kit. It had the drilled and slotted rotors. I didn't have any issues but the drawbacks I'm aware of are that they're difficult to impossible to turn (resurface), and some say mud can get wedged in the holes & slots if you go offroad. I drove offroad and didn't have that happen, but I'm not a big mud bogger either.