JBL enclosure with JL 8w3

Damn..come and do mine for me..this is so clean..I’m all thumbs when it comes to sound/electronics..smh

 

I don't think you'd have any chance of fitting a 10

 

Thanks! I agree, I love me some audio upgrades/electronics. It came out super clean IMO, sounds amazing and was a lot of fun.



This pic was test fitment and cable runs prior to cutting down the harnesses and heat shrinking and taping.

 

Hey Super G, any update? Referencing your OCD, what did you use for your trim panel? Is that the OEM JBL enclosure with an amp mounted? Super clean! Thanks in advance

 

Sorry, been real busy w/a move and an international family trip for a wedding.

Used the OEM rear trim panel, mine had the JBL system and you're spot on; that is the OEM enclosure. I had to trim down some of the internal reinforcement 'webbing' inside the enclosure and mounted the amp in place of the OEM JBL amp.

Point to mention, the amp in the picture does not power the sub. It's an 8 channel that powers all the door and dash speakers including the lift gate. It integrates into the factory inputs with the idatalink maestro AR unit which has a harness that's ~ 1ft in length. So I put this amp in the stock location and put my mono sub amp under the driver seat. Here's a pic from my test fit.

 

Thats what’s up! And you did this with the stock JBL head unit still working fine? How did you install the idatalink maestro AR unit to integrate the factory amp with aftermarket amps? Did you run a separate power cable from the battery and a separate ground or have to use a remote wire? I totaled my 2010 sr5 and just picked up a ‘13 limited and swapped the door/dash speakers with JL C2’s. I also noticed only bass comes out of the door speakers with no highs or mids, were you able to work out that link too? Thanks in advance.

 

Yes, I kept the factory head unit in place since it's more than sufficient. It's a JBL system so the maestro has a harness for direct integration with the jbl amp inputs/outputs. I just stuck it on the side of paneling right below the box and behind the power converter. In my test fit picture it's behind the gaggle of wire harnessing that I eventually cut down.

With regards to your question, That's exactly how I wanted my setup. I run the audison and all 8 channels actively so my doors are pretty much all mids for fill. The sub handles the low range and the dash speakers are the highs. I set all the distance and timing so that the stage is 1 of 2 options, directly in front center of dash for when there's just me, or center of vehicle when there's passengers.

I'm guessing you installed components and not coaxials so that could be your issue but not really sure without more info.

 

Fantastic job on the install! I bookmarked this page for guidance since your set-up is exactly what I want to do.

 

I'm considering going down the car audio rabbit hole. I have experience wiring door speakers and a box sub with a dedicated amp. I have a 2022 Pro with the factory JBL and was wondering if I could just simply remove my factory JBL sub and replace it with the JL Audio 8W3v3, since the JBL system comes with a dedicated amp for the factory sub. I am planning on updating to a ~400-watt @2 Ohm mono amp in the future with the JL sub, but I would rather stay with the factory sub amp if at all possible. I will be documenting this process along the way as soon as I get started.
Thanks to anyone who responds.

 

That monoblock looks like a zed audio chassis…?

 

Greaf job on this! I’m going to do the same with an Alpine gen 2. Do you happen to remember if you had like an extra 1/8 inch of clearance after installing the W3? That’s the difference in size with the Alpine I want to install. Really appreciate any insight on this. I know you had to sand out that webbing inside the box, but wondering how tight of a fit it was when you put the W3 in there

 

I fit an image dynamics id8 in a previous install which is 3/16" taller than the 8w3. Assuming website dimensions are accurate you should be good after some typical Dremel work.

 

Can’t begin to tell you how much I appreciate the reply! Thanks you!

 

Y'all got me interested in this. I've been wanting to add a sub but didn't want to eat up any of the cargo space.

My wife got me a Kicker 400.1 amp and 8" Kicker Comp R sub for Christmas. It was intended for the Jeep TJ but now I'm thinking they may find a home in the 4Runner.

Couple if questions :

1. How much did you dremel out of the enclosure to for the JL w3? Looks like the Kicker Comp R is a bit shallower than the JL (about 4.125" vs 4.6" depth respectively). Hoping to not dremel out the box but if I have to, it's no big deal.

2. Looking at the pics of the audison amp mounted on the enclosure. I like this location as well. The Kicker is about 1.25" more narrow on the width but a little more height ( .65") and deeper (.38"). Do you think I can make the Kicker amp fit that spot?

 

Hey brother, you might be able to fit that sub in there without a Dremel. My JL Audio 8 inch W1 fit without needing to and it’s mounting depth is just under 3.9. So I can’t say for sure, but it’s a good possibility you should be good. For the amp, I couldn’t tell you cause mine went under the seat.

You’ll want to throw max power at that kicker. I’m throwing 200 watts RMS at mine, which is 50 over its rating and I don’t even notice much of a difference.

I was about to get the newer gen 2 Alpine Type-R(Alpine R2-W8D4). But my wife got me the JL Audio Stealthbox with the 10” shallow sub for the 5th gen 4Runner today.
I was really curious how that Type R would’ve worked out though. It has even better specs than the W3, it’ll fit that factory enclosure, and what little I’ve seen online was really impressive. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for this. Seems like it may be possible for the Kicker Comp R to fit without any dremel work. When I eventually do this, I will report back for others.

The amp may be a different issue though. I'm thinking the height and depth may be an issue. The more I read, the more I'm leaning towards a 5ch amp under the passenger seat and just going all in on the stereo upgrade. All speakers etc...

I'm running the sub at 2 ohms so the Kicker will push 300w RMS and the sub can handle that. Should be an ideal combo regardless of which vehicle it ends up in.

 

Yes, I want to do the same thing! Please document, this would be very helpful!

 

I think if you just put the JL sub in,you'd be very disappointed. The factory amp sends about 40 watts to the sub. That's not nearly enough to power an aftermarket sub and you're more likely to damage either the sub or amp based on that. I wouldn't put in an aftermarket sub until you're ready to also install a dedicated amp to power it.

 

This thread is awesome! I also want to add the JL 8W3v3 and for an amp JL JD250/1. Is there enough room behind the panel for this amp? It’s pretty small (2.1” x 9.5” x 7.5”). I’m afraid that one of my kids is going to kick the amp under one of the seats and/or spill something up into there!

 

I just made a kick panel on my amp rack that I formed….amp is mounted under front passenger seat.

 

I have decided that step 1 is to install a JD500/1 amp to drive a 8w3v3-4 sub in the JBL enclosure. I will go to a dedicated amp for new dash/door speakers as stage 2.

I know that I’ll need a DSP unit at some point but would like to wait to get that until step 2. My question is, can I use the existing speaker-level sub wires (post factory amp) into the JD500/1 or is it better to get a Line Out Converter to capture the signal? The Crutchfield guy says get the LOC, but I would rather not have the expense now since I’ll go with a nice DSP in the future, at which point I’ll use the sub output on the DSP.

 

I’m guessing you are using the factory head unit. I’d definitely say get the LOC. JL Audio’s LOC is awesome, and it’s only $99. Creative Audio had one for $64 last time I looked.

 

Does anyone know the part number for the rear panel that is for the built in sub? I have a OR without third row and cannot find the panel to replace the one that came on it to accommodate the new sub box. Thanks.

 

I’m looking into doing this setup for the subwoofer replacement of the JBL. Definitely save money on going the stealth box.

 

This looks beautiful, did you ever have a chance to put a build thread together? That Audison amp fit very nicely in there.

 

Does anyone know the volume of the OEM JBL box vs the JL Audio Stealth Box? Trying to spec out a sub and I'm not sure if I want to go 8" or 10". I have always had 12" subs, but I want to keep things hidden and not give up any trunk space. In my QX4, I would remove/add the box when I wanted the bass, but it gets tiring doing this all the time with a dog in the back.

 

I filled one up with water to measure volume and it held ~3.75 Gallons or a bit more, so you're looking at a little over 0.5 cu ft net. It's actually on the large side for something like an 8W3 but still works fine