New to using Part Time 4WD

Hello,

I am new to using part time 4WD. I took my new 4Runner on some gravel trails. I turned back into pavement out of the gravel road And the wheels were grinding (I understand that this is due to the fact I was turning fairly tight in 4WD and the tires were slipping). When that started to happen I switched into 2WD and it clunked when before I don’t rekey it making a noise the two other times I used it. Did I do any damage shifting out of 4WD on pavement with some turn to my wheels?

Thanks for any help, completely new to 4WD.

Mike

 

I wouldn't worry about it. For any driveline damage to occur it would take more than this.

 

You probably didn't damage anything. This has happened to me several times when turning out of a field back on to blacktop. It's jarring. If it happens again, immediately straighten the wheel, slow down, and disengage 4wd. The "clunk" is the disengage under pressure.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I am learning how things work and was worried the shifting out of 4WD clunk meant I hurt my brand new truck. Makes sense that it is just the pressure being released. I’ll just make sure I avoid that type of thing as much as possible in the future.

 

Yep, any time you turn on dry pavement in 4wd you're gonna have the binding. It's hard on components, but isn't gonna break anything when it happens once in awhile. But do your best to not let it happen.

As soon as you feel the bind, let go of the wheel to let the pressure off, stop (or slow down if you can't stop), and straighten the wheel. Then while moving slowly, disengage 4wd. Sometimes in a precarious spot if it's under a lot of bind, it might help to put it in reverse and then disengage. It's kind of a "feel" thing. Disengage at a place of least resistance.

Don't mean to make it sound complicated. It's not. And it usually all happens in about 1.5 seconds.

 

Thanks! My bigger issue was switching from 4Hi to 2WD while that binding was happening during the turn instead of waiting till the binding stopped after completing the turn, that pressure let-off clunk really concerned me.

I took it back off road and used the suggestions here for going in and out of 4WD, made sure I was going straight and didn’t have and pressure or torque going through the system and it seemed to work smooth as butter with no noises and engaged in and out super quick.

Glad I learned this now and didn’t keep doing stupid things with the system. I absolutely love this truck so far and want to keep it going strong. I really appreciate the guidance.

Mike

 

this binding will happen when your in 4WD and you turned the steering wheel on solid dry pavement .. turn off 4wd as you are close to the solid pavement wheels straight..

also since your operating on off roads at times lube the axle yokes and U joints .. do it every oil change just a couple of grease pumps .. that will reduce wear and other clunking as the vehicle ages..

 

That sounds like a good idea. Do you know of a guide or manual type product that lays out the lubrication points? I don’t remember seeing any such thing in the manual.

Or is it something I have to get under the truck to figure out on my own?

Thanks for the advice I really appreciate it!

 

The yokes have a grease fitting where the axles slides in/out that grease is moly based grease. need only 2 pumps . moly grease is the spec. reduces friction and wear.

The U joints have 1 grease fitting on each end of axle so you may have to rotate axle/move vehicle to get all ..grease to use is lithium based grease.. you pump a few times till the grease comes out just a little .. then wipe off excess ..

the other reason to do this every oil change is driving in deep water/excessive wet areas..




Lubricate propeller shaft - every 15k or 18 mo (severe: 5k or 6 mo)

Parts:
Spider grease -

$13 Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease, Auto, 12.5 oz.

Lithium base chassis grease NLGI No. 2
Slide yoke grease -

$13 Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

Molybdenum disulfide lithium base chassis grease NLGI No. 2
No double cardan joints on the 4Runner

Special tools:

$49 Lincoln 1134 Pistol Grip Grease Gun with 18" Whip Flex Hose and Coupler, 6" Rigid Extension, 7500 PSI, Premium Dual Lip Follower, Variable Stroke, Jam-Proof Toggle, Filler Air Bleeder Combo

Pistol-grip grease gun with flexible hose

Tips:
1) DIY thread: by @ 2) 2 spiders and 1 slide yoke on each shaft
3) Spiders should be greased until fresh grease purges from all 4 seals. Should purge somewhat evenly; you may need to relieve pressure on the joint to get even flow, or there may be a problem with the spider/u-joint.
4) There are way too many opinions on how much to grease a slide yoke. I've formed mine, if interested just message me.


Re-torque propeller shaft bolts - every 15k or 18 mo (severe: 5k or 6 mo)

Torque specs:
Prop shaft bolts - 65 lb-ft (14mm/17mm)

Tips:
1) DIY thread: by @ 2) You will need 14mm and 17mm box ends or flarenuts for the u-joint flanges, sockets won't fit
3) The flanges at the transfer case have a 17mm bolt head with a 14mm nut
4) Flanges at the diffs have a 14mm bolt with 14mm nut
5) Recommend a box-end or flarenut crowfoot on your torque wrench, but don't forget to lower your torque setting due to the longer torque arm. Here's a calculator: Torque Wrench Adapter Calculator - CNCexpo.com