No Power on my engine, dashboard, AC, Headlights, Radio.ect..ect and can’t pass emissions.

Hello. I have a 1992 Toyota Winnabago. 3VZE, V6 3.0 liter engine.

Just recently. I was having a issue where the truck would die when I was slowing down at stop signs/red lights.

Sometimes, it would completely die and I would have to put in in park and restart it. Parked it yesterday. Now it won’t start at all.

My buzzer comes on when I open the door with the key in the ignition. No other signs of life.

The Engine is brand new, (only 1000 miles on it), Headgasket, Brand new Battery, Brand new 80amp ALT fuse, Brand New MAF Sensor. 02 Sensor, Catalytic Converter, Radiator, Fuel Filter, Water Pump, Spark Plugs…ect…ect.

About 15,000$ in total Repairs and Maintence over the course of 1 year since I purchased it. It was at 192,000 miles on the old engine.

It also can’t pass emissions, Idles too high and burns to rich. Any suggestions on what to try next.

I’ve only gotten it to start by hooking cables to another car, putting the negative cable on the negative battery terminal of the truck, and hooking the positive cable directly to the screw on the 80amp Alt Fuse.

Cranks up and runs like nothing is wrong when I do that. Any suggestions on where to check next?

Update, I got it able to run without the cables once I got it started, however, my battery only reads 12.9 volts while it is running. So I’m thinking the Alternator could be bad….

Thoughts?

 

One thing about new, it doesn't mean good. Some of these parts could have been on the shelf an untold amount of time before you came and got them - even if ordered from an online retailer. Age kills parts just as well as use.
Sounds like you came to that conclusion yourself with the alternator, but it may be worth looking at a few other parts. All electronic engine parts have tests in the factory service manual. Be sure to do a smoke test too to rule out vacuum leaks. I'd say this is #1 for running rich in all pre OBD2 vehicles.
Despite the engine being "new", have you done a compression check?
My 3vz was in dire need of a rebuild when it was doing that rev high act. I had two cylinders with low compression and all the injectors needed replaced. The timing was even a little off.
In my case, I knew I bought a junker. I was looking for a project, and it delivered.

Side note about the alternator. Some alternators don't start charging until a certain RPM value is hit. You may need to go above 1200 in some cases.

 

Thanks for the reply Bullet. Wanted to give a update on the situation. Got the truck started and drove it around the block a couple times.
Battery is now reading at 14.0 to 13.8 volts at idle. I haven’t tried to cut it off and cut it back on yet though.

It has passed every smoke test on each emissions, I suspect there is a vacuum leak in the intake manifold however, I can hear a slight wheezing from it. I’ve pinched off each vacuum line already, no change at all in idle. I’m going to take some carb cleaner to the lines next just to double check. Exhaust is also running clean.

It is leaking oil, it doesn’t leak while running or driving however, only after the truck is shut off. It will leak for a couple minutes then stop, I’m thinking a cracked gasket or loose Valve.

it’s been running for a full hour nonstop with no problems so far. I’ll keep anyone reading updated. Any suggestions are much appreciated.