Electrical Upgrades

I already have a general build thread on the "Build" section of the forum, https://www.4runners.com/threads/2023-abigail-luna-build.39899/, but thought I would provide more details on some of my build, starting with some of the electrical upgrades performed.

I performed a significant amount of electrical upgrades so I may end up splitting up the posts to make it easier to follow. I started with a home built power tray to help organize I built my power tray out of 1/16" flat steel, welded to 3/16" steel bar stock for additional support. The tray was primed and painted with multiple coats of rust-oleum hi-temp spray paint. The power tray used preexisting threaded holes located on the passenger side located between the air filter box and the fire wall.

Power to the tray is supplied via a 350 amp fused 1/0 gauge wire connected directly to the battery and the 600 amp busbar. The negative for the tray is supplied by a 4 gauge wire running from the negative busbar to a body ground. The power tray holds 3 100 amp circuit breakers, 1 40 amp circuit breaker, 12 circuit fuse block, a 600 amp positive busbar, 200 amp negative busbar (all blue sea systems products), a RLB Pro8 Switch power module, and 2 12V (Cole Hersee) continuous duty solenoids.

1 12V solenoid goes to my 1000W pure sine wave power inverter I installed, via 4 gauge wire, and the second 12V solenoid supplies 30amps of power to my DC-DC charger in my trailer, via 6 gauge wire. Both solenoids are powered through one of the circuit breakers so I can disconnect the systems independently of each other. The fuse block and Pro8 Switch power module are connected to the remaining circuit breakers.

The fuse block powers; the fridge (10 gauge), both front 12V outlets to always on (14 gauge), rear seat USB-C outlets always on (14 gauge), rear 12V outlet already on (14 gauge), and ICS-Fab Dash Mount USB outlets. The RLB Pro8 Switch currently switches on/off my power inverter, baja designs 30in S8 amber light-bar, and my wilson cell signal booster, as well as sends power to the DC-DC charger.

 

I know there are power trays you can buy already pre-assembled, but most that I saw were to small for what I intended, and most mounted on the driver side, where I intend to install the Rago Wifey Air system. All the wiring was sized based on the max current draw and length of the wire size, and each electrical circuit can be isolated for future diagnostics or for isolating damaged components.

I used cardboard initially to determine the size and fitment of the tray, based on what I planed to install. I then cut and bent the flat steel sheet, test fitted the tray in the vehicle, and began bending and fitting the bar stock needed to mount the tray to the vehicle. After getting the bar stock bent and mounted to the vehicle, I set the steel sheet on the bar stock, marked the location, pulled both the steel bar stock, and the steel sheet, and welded be bar stock and tray together. During the fitment process, I determined that the electrical equipment could potentially be exposed to high temperatures, due to the proximity of the exhaust. Based on that decision I welded a steel plate to the tray to help dissipate the heat. Finally, I painted the tray with several coats of primer and paint, mounted the equipment, and installed the tray into the vehicle.

 

After I got my power tray installed, I installed the RLB Switch Pro control panel, power inverter, power hubs, Anderson Powerpole connectors, Wilson Cell phone booster and ICS-Fab 4runner dash mount with USB charging kit. I also installed Ram mounts for; my phone, Garmin Inreach Mini 2 and my IPad on the ICS-Fab dash mount kit. I used 3M VHB tape and a bent piece of aluminum to mount the RLB Switch Pro panel onto to dash to the left of steering wheel.

The power inverter was mounted in a custom built drawer system, that also contains a power hub that houses, 2 120V outlets, 1 USB-C and 2 USB-A and one Anderson Powerpole connector for the fridge. I mounted the second power hub in the center console, which provides 2 120V outlets, one USB-C and 1 USB-A connector. The power hub mounted in the center console, is mounted using bent aluminum flat stock, with 3M VHB tape, with a piece of plastic panel cut to fit, and attached to the front side of the device, to prevent items from making their way underneath.

I mounted the Wilson Cell phone booster under the driver seat with velcro, the inside antenna is mounted to the ICS-Fab dash mount via L-brackets that are attached to another piece of plastic panel, and the outside antenna is mounted to the roof rack with a K515S luggage rack mount. I can leave the antenna down when not needed so I can get into the garage and put it up when I am traveling.

I mounted a 50 amp Anderson Powerpole connecter, in a flush mount trailer vision cover assembly, in the rear bumper for my trailer. I may at a later date, make a power box that I can connect to this connector, to power a diesel heater and other devices, but that will be after I get a dual battery setup installed.

In total I now have the following plugs/connectors:
-Front driver/passenger: 3 USB-A, 1 USB-C, 2 120V outlets, 2 12V outlets
-Rear passengers: 3 USB-C, 2 USB-A, 2 120V outlets
-Cargo Area:1 30 Amp Anderson Powerpole connector, 1 12V outlet, 1 120V outlet
-Outside: 1 50 Amp Anderson Powerpole connector